This looks like a DAC960 ,but the one in my picture is modified, (audio amateur 02/92).
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I believe the CDA 94 had identical components to the DAC960 and they were built in the same factory in Japan, but externally they of course looked different.
Not sometimes but never. Electrical leaking is different from (bulging) caps spilling electrolytic fluid.
Of course, both were made in the Marantz factory in Japan. The back panel is identical while the front panels are slightly different, but they weren't supposed to be the same.
https://www.dutchaudioclassics.nl/marantz_cda94_d_a_converter/
https://www.dutchaudioclassics.nl/philips_dac_960_d_a_converter/
I have to say that even without the S2 chip. The DAC unit sounds amazing. The BG capacitors give the sound what can only be described as an extra depth to the sound with a 3D holographic feel, that send shivers down the spine.
You read about leaving the machine on 24/7in order to get the BGs to their best state (and the TDA chip as well), but I am nervous about doing that.
But having had it switched on all day, it does seem to sound smoother and more organic for sure.
Leaving it powered on 24/7 for a longer period is a good idea if you want to get rid of it.
A great many connaisseur devices that did such by design developed serious errors in time.
A great many connaisseur devices that did such by design developed serious errors in time.
I typically leave my stuff on for a few hours before I listen to it and then it's shut off when I'm done. There was a positive effect when I did that Vs just turning it on and listening. I once accidentally left my DAC and tube amp on for weeks and when I listened, it was no better than if it had been left on for a few hours
I didn't talk of loosing fluide of course but weaked leaked parameters..
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It is clear to me the big Elnas and the little black ones were swapped already (Black Gates).
The black Gate migth add à dark and organic touch to balance the cerafines, The big Elnas are also on the valve side. 8k uF is certainly too much...but well they are there so keep it, seems new swap as well.
Best bet: keep the cerafines or change them for Panasonic FC for near the same behavior. Keep the Black Gates in lieu.
Some caned op amps gave good spec due to their métal packaging.
Too bad the dac chip was swapped for a lower grade one in spite of the S1 , hence the socket.
The black Gate migth add à dark and organic touch to balance the cerafines, The big Elnas are also on the valve side. 8k uF is certainly too much...but well they are there so keep it, seems new swap as well.
Best bet: keep the cerafines or change them for Panasonic FC for near the same behavior. Keep the Black Gates in lieu.
Some caned op amps gave good spec due to their métal packaging.
Too bad the dac chip was swapped for a lower grade one in spite of the S1 , hence the socket.
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Some crystals migth like this, sole talk of 4 days before some stabilité but I dunno. Some let their clock feeded 24/7. Of course do not do that with a stock cd player.
Op627 totally old tech today.
Warm à little veiled sound that sofft the edges.
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As regards the existing DAC chip, I believe it is original. The socket was put in by the upgrade specialist who did offer my vendor an 'S1' chip instead (and he listened to it and compared both the 'A' chip and 'S1' one, but he felt the better sound of the 'S1' didn't merit the additional cost he was being asked to pay. Any way I have a 'S2' to put into the socket, so that is fine.
I am not aware that the two large 8k uF Elna Capacitors have been replaced. Only the Black Gate upgrade and Opamp upgrade was mentioned.
The other major modification was to the board itself in order to make the signal path clearer ie no headphone output, no XLR output and no variable volume output.
When you state that the Panasonic FC will sound similar to the Cerafines, you are referring to the small Red coloured capacitors . Is that correct?
Obviously this DAC gets played through an Amp , which will have its own set of OPamps to colour the sound . I assume that the OPamps in the DAC have more influence on the end sound than the OPamps in the Amplifier.
Well to be fair, this is an old machine so maybe old tech suits it 🙂. But I don't have any plans to change the Opamps in the CDA94 that it came with.
I have just always liked the 627s. I have had few headphone amps that I rolled in 627s and they were always my favourite. Very warm & organic sounding.
I do still have an iBasso headphone amp and I have a selection of Muses 01 and 02, some very transparent JCRs and the aforementioned OP627s. I haven't used that for years, maybe time to have another listen..
To me the biggest Elna seemed newest plastic package but I can be wrong. Yes Pan FC to swapp the Cerafine (the reds) if you think it needs to be swapped. Maybe the guy did that already with NOS stock and reformed caps, we don't know.
OP amp is a complex topic and op amps can NOT be swapped easily without changes around for most. But at least you can try some classic usual suspects :
OPA1655/56 (on a socket and well decoupled), LM6172... good sounding an suitable for headphones too if no buffer after the I/V stage and took from there (there was certainly a dedicated op amp for the headphones output). There are many others but that discussion is off topic here imho. Just check if single or double channels of course ! Or yes live happy with the 627 or the canned ones. 🙂
OP amp is a complex topic and op amps can NOT be swapped easily without changes around for most. But at least you can try some classic usual suspects :
OPA1655/56 (on a socket and well decoupled), LM6172... good sounding an suitable for headphones too if no buffer after the I/V stage and took from there (there was certainly a dedicated op amp for the headphones output). There are many others but that discussion is off topic here imho. Just check if single or double channels of course ! Or yes live happy with the 627 or the canned ones. 🙂
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To focus on the topic. My bad :you're rigth the CD94 had a standalone TDA1541A. I mixed with its follower: only the CD94 MKII had 2 TDA1541A S1.
I have that tool, I don't like using it for TDA chips, too narrow and the chip can come out at awful angles and bend legs.
To lift the chip grab a stiff lengthy of plastic slightly narrower than the chip width so as it fits the width under the ends, then applying heat bend the ends about 8 or 10mm at right angles, and also bend the piece in the middle, so it looks like that tool someone posted, but this way it will be supported evenly across the underside at each end.
Then slowly work it up and out while making sure it is lifting evenly.
Then slowly work it up and out while making sure it is lifting evenly.
Sorry, I missed the "S' in the code.
So HSH8818
H = Nijmegen (Holland)
S = Kaohsiung (Taiwan)
H = Nijmegen (Holland)
Manufactured in the 18th week of 1988.
