It is all with NOS DAC how yu figure out the trebles in the I/V stages : shematic, but also passive & active parts and PS, traffos, as was told in the miro1362 thread that is wothing a reading as yoou know for all the good advicess given since the beginning about that.
Played on numerous tda1541A dacs I have and AD1862 (miro's & my own) and PCM56/58, I agree and see no issues ! Devil in the details as always.
Oversampling made by PC with proper soft (Audirvana, Sygnalist, ...) if a proper clock stage could be great : but here comes the good clock stage pcb design layout problem, ahaha !
I purchased the DAC complete in case, all I did is add the HDMI/i2s board and changed a couple of capacitors.
The discrete modules were in the purchased build, based on the Marantz HDAM I think.
This is my DAC as it came to me.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001187078248.html
Here is a completed board with discrete modules, no TDA1540 chips.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003102831945.html
Those output stage modules are also sold as separate items by the look of it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003755185540.html?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003102831945.html
Those output stage modules are also sold as separate items by the look of it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003755185540.html?
The I/V plus the front end looks like the copy and work of cdream5.com, the guy behind seems to be ok.
But for this price or less you have had the TDA1541 chip from the 90S' origin plus the work from Pedja Rogic (sim mode, HDMI too, USB and veryyyyy good sound (till now it is my reference with Eldam modes discussed in his blog (AYA2/AYA4). Today his AYA 5 is Toshiba discrete I/V output.
But of course the TDA1540 is sligthy different, somewhat more organic in the mid low dpt... Anyway a TDA enthusiast has it all (it is a disease I haven't found a therapy yet but making DACs too with them)
But for this price or less you have had the TDA1541 chip from the 90S' origin plus the work from Pedja Rogic (sim mode, HDMI too, USB and veryyyyy good sound (till now it is my reference with Eldam modes discussed in his blog (AYA2/AYA4). Today his AYA 5 is Toshiba discrete I/V output.
But of course the TDA1540 is sligthy different, somewhat more organic in the mid low dpt... Anyway a TDA enthusiast has it all (it is a disease I haven't found a therapy yet but making DACs too with them)
Keep it for the new pcb cores that will popup like mine above or elses from Thorsten generous sharing work in the long thread ! 🙂
I have read this thread with interest !!
I have just managed to acquire this double crown chip. The provenance is that the chip was bought around 2002 from Brian Cherry based in Hong Kong and Brian apparently knew the above mentioned Thorsten (Loesch) and they both had a connection to get and sell a few double crown chips. It certainly looks genuine to me and I believe the seller, who also believed the chip to be genuine and has been using it over the years OK.
To me it looks like an item of absolute beauty 🙂.
I bought it to put into a Marantz CDA 94 in order to get that machine to its best possible spec. It has already been upgraded with a couple of dozen black gate capacitors around its digital and analogue stages and US 1970 Motorola Opamps for the amplification. It already sounds amazing , but I can't wait to put the double crown in.
I have a very simple question though. I am very hamfisted and don't do any DIY stuff on my HiFI - sorry but it is true.
The existing TDA1541A chip is not soldered but in a socket.
What is the best way of getting that chip out eg using my thumb and finger, or some other way. And then I can insert this new one.
Or am I safer to take the machine to a hifi repair specialist, whom I know, but he is lives about an hour away.
Thanks for any help.
I have just managed to acquire this double crown chip. The provenance is that the chip was bought around 2002 from Brian Cherry based in Hong Kong and Brian apparently knew the above mentioned Thorsten (Loesch) and they both had a connection to get and sell a few double crown chips. It certainly looks genuine to me and I believe the seller, who also believed the chip to be genuine and has been using it over the years OK.
To me it looks like an item of absolute beauty 🙂.
I bought it to put into a Marantz CDA 94 in order to get that machine to its best possible spec. It has already been upgraded with a couple of dozen black gate capacitors around its digital and analogue stages and US 1970 Motorola Opamps for the amplification. It already sounds amazing , but I can't wait to put the double crown in.
I have a very simple question though. I am very hamfisted and don't do any DIY stuff on my HiFI - sorry but it is true.
The existing TDA1541A chip is not soldered but in a socket.
What is the best way of getting that chip out eg using my thumb and finger, or some other way. And then I can insert this new one.
Or am I safer to take the machine to a hifi repair specialist, whom I know, but he is lives about an hour away.
Thanks for any help.
Gently left with a screw driver the two sides of the chip step by step by changing sides several times in order not to bend the leads and let them vertical. Don't use your hands and fingers but a lever like a screw driver.
A taiwann made sounds clearer.
A taiwann made sounds clearer.
Thanks all. Very helpful advice. Having looked inside the machine the DAC chip is in a slightly awkward place to remove even with the use such tools. These chip are nearly thirty years old. So I will just have to be very patient and leave it to an expert to do the job.
I think the expiring DAC chip is also Taiwanese but obviously it is just the 'A' version.
I think the expiring DAC chip is also Taiwanese but obviously it is just the 'A' version.
Whatever the ideas about TDA1514A: please replace those Elna Cerafines as these are notorious. Remove the gunk around the large caps that becomes conductive in time.
No expert needed, a small L shape bent piece of metal at both sides and the IC is out. A tool for pulling ICs also exists like pjasio253 showed. It is not open heart surgery, it is very old stuff needing an overhaul. There is nothing wrong with working cautiously and discharge yourself or even ground yourself to have no ESD. Even if the electronics are less sensitive it still is a good habit to treat/handle them ESD safe. Place the new IC with pin 1 the same way as the old IC with all pins aligned in the holes and push gently. It may be better to take the IC and push all pins of one side all at once against a table a little bit more to the center so they will enter the IC socket more easy. Repeat this for both sides. Just a little. Push the IC in. Check, check again, make coffee, drink coffee, make a picture and compare again with the picture of the old IC if pin 1 is correct. When your brain and hand tell to switch it on you ignore emotion and just have another look to be sure. It is free to do so.
Look up the type number and make sure that 1970 opamps are really suitable for the intended use. Older is certainly not better as opamps have matured and there are excellent modern types around. It is not that NOS/NIB opamps are best although a few exceptions exist that were already famous and practically unobtainable then.
No expert needed, a small L shape bent piece of metal at both sides and the IC is out. A tool for pulling ICs also exists like pjasio253 showed. It is not open heart surgery, it is very old stuff needing an overhaul. There is nothing wrong with working cautiously and discharge yourself or even ground yourself to have no ESD. Even if the electronics are less sensitive it still is a good habit to treat/handle them ESD safe. Place the new IC with pin 1 the same way as the old IC with all pins aligned in the holes and push gently. It may be better to take the IC and push all pins of one side all at once against a table a little bit more to the center so they will enter the IC socket more easy. Repeat this for both sides. Just a little. Push the IC in. Check, check again, make coffee, drink coffee, make a picture and compare again with the picture of the old IC if pin 1 is correct. When your brain and hand tell to switch it on you ignore emotion and just have another look to be sure. It is free to do so.
Look up the type number and make sure that 1970 opamps are really suitable for the intended use. Older is certainly not better as opamps have matured and there are excellent modern types around. It is not that NOS/NIB opamps are best although a few exceptions exist that were already famous and practically unobtainable then.
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^ @JP - Can you expand on the Elna Cerafines issue : would Kemit Capacitors be a good replacement ? Has the "gunk" around these capacitors always been there from new , or have these capacitors been leaking overtime?
BTW The unit was upgraded by a specialist, so I would assume the Motorola Opamps are fit for purpose - but offhand I don't know their model. I have always loved OP627 opamps myself. For me their sound is hard to beat.
BTW The unit was upgraded by a specialist, so I would assume the Motorola Opamps are fit for purpose - but offhand I don't know their model. I have always loved OP627 opamps myself. For me their sound is hard to beat.
Assumptions are the mother of *******.
It is a kind of glue to keep large electrolytic caps on their place but it has hardened out, has discolored and may give trouble. Anyway remove it. The specialist should have done that.
Many replacements for the Cerafines, it is nice to put some time in that. Pages have been filled here about the subject. I just choose good industry quality but that is audio barbarism.
Just replace for same size same pitched parts but higher voltage rating won't hurt (caps have become smaller which can be compensated by choosing the same sized version in higher voltage). Melt glue/extension wires/D cell sized audiophile stuff is not my cup of tea so I can not advise on that.
It is a kind of glue to keep large electrolytic caps on their place but it has hardened out, has discolored and may give trouble. Anyway remove it. The specialist should have done that.
Many replacements for the Cerafines, it is nice to put some time in that. Pages have been filled here about the subject. I just choose good industry quality but that is audio barbarism.
Just replace for same size same pitched parts but higher voltage rating won't hurt (caps have become smaller which can be compensated by choosing the same sized version in higher voltage). Melt glue/extension wires/D cell sized audiophile stuff is not my cup of tea so I can not advise on that.
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That is only useful for smaller ICs, IMHO. And I find them quite wobbly and unstable, there are better versions, which I too find too wobbly though.
For small ICs, I really like the Bernstein 2-601.
For larger ICs (like this one), a flat screwdriver works great, with a bit of technique, as you don't want to bend the pins.
Thank you.
BTW the Opamps are Motorola LF156H. Spec sheet :
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/l...rl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ti.com%2Fproduct%2FLF156
Views welcomed on their suitability or performance.
@jean-paul ,
It isnot the cerafines he is hearing but the whole pcb and parts all together. Here the cerafines may or not be good, you can not guess.
In my Yam; X2 preamp al in all, the Cerafine there makes a good whole output result.
Now due to the age all the lythic can leak... ahaha !
It isnot the cerafines he is hearing but the whole pcb and parts all together. Here the cerafines may or not be good, you can not guess.
In my Yam; X2 preamp al in all, the Cerafine there makes a good whole output result.
Now due to the age all the lythic can leak... ahaha !
I don't care what people are or not are thinking what they are hearing or what magical sonical properties they think some parts have. Nor the happy marriages and secret relations and liaisons these parts may have with each other. I only care about parts being close to defective or close to EOL.
Does not count for the BG though, never had a failing one.
True. These will leak due to age. Hence my advice. Replacing old/very old electrolytic caps in time is better than replacing after defects as the electrolyte is aggressive and eats copper. Caps will eat your favorite DAC!!! OMG!!!! 🙂
Does not count for the BG though, never had a failing one.
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But sometimes you just want old leaking capacitors after a 7xxx TO220 regs there for instance or keep appart some Nichicon good SR blue caps or some less good Vx grade ones (sometimes their high esr kept with time and their good pedigree migth help, but it is coocking minute sauce story)!
. Caps will eat your favorite DAC!!! OMG!!!!
. Caps will eat your favorite DAC!!! OMG!!!!