Current candidate LXmaxi: 4" Faital-inside Admark LDA 401 array element closed box, placed over old 12" Aura on top of 25L steel can (notch7.7khz 0.28mH|1.5uF|10R; LPF140hz 9mH2.6ohmAircore). Somewhat high efficiency. Frequency response and detail resolution are both good, but I haven't yet warmed to the "Pro sound". Maybe micro-dynamic contrast/articulation a bit off, or the slightly "dry" taste, not sure.
I recently completed a build of tiny "Onkens" with Mark Audio Pluvia 7.2HD 100mm drivers (like DLugos Jan16 mMar-Ken7p ov8) for a friend. They are awesome and a spectacular value. I got just a small bump in bass ~90Hz when using the NAD, but the rest of the full range is excellent. My Black Ice amp drove them better with more grunt in the low end using EL84s (at the price of a bit of distortion). Dispersion is good enough, even as mains @ 3m listening distance; they throw a really nice soundfield. I didn't sense or measure any BDS issues... solid in free space. I did break them in driving continuouisly for 4 days before measuring. I think a sub for a 2.1 system will be needed to compliment these, at least with many amps. I'm pretty pleased, as is my friend.
The peak is at least partly room. If it persists with change of venue, some open cel foam in the vent slots may help.
These are the smallest miniOnken for this driver, bass will be sacrificed.
The same size miniOnken with A6.2PeN embarassed a pair of LS3/5A i had restored. In this case the nlargest box for the driver.
What did you use to get that finish?
dave
These are the smallest miniOnken for this driver, bass will be sacrificed.
The same size miniOnken with A6.2PeN embarassed a pair of LS3/5A i had restored. In this case the nlargest box for the driver.
What did you use to get that finish?
dave
Yeah, I'd like to measure again in their final location ~ a bigger room, but don't really have the chance. There is some damping back in the port already. Size is flexibility and part of the choice here for me. They are so good really. Finish is my favored look ~ Minwax true black stain finished with clear satin poly coats.
LXnano? A joke right now but who knows... Cello not bad. Old-stock Vifa/Aura (supposedly).
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LX 15" EchoTech widerange driver (flat to 4.5khz) with Lxcopy (yes that's the brand) ceramic dome tweeter (or Al2O3, how to tell?). This pairing used to have plast-tape whizzer to boost tweeter a couple dB while controlling dispersion; cone straight-through, dome 1st-order capacitor, so aligned phase at XO but not acoustic centers. Over in multi-way discussing unaligned "coax" I had the idea of bouncing the tweeter in order to time-align acoustic center with the cone's:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ials-with-ragged-response.408887/post-7783316
So next holiday I may have to attempt a three-way comp!
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ials-with-ragged-response.408887/post-7783316
So next holiday I may have to attempt a three-way comp!
Attachments
p.s. series 1st-order ~4khz 0.3mH 4.7uF wired in-phase
p.p.s. tentatively bounce-aligned > LX-aligned > coaxial unaligned acoustic centers
p.p.s. tentatively bounce-aligned > LX-aligned > coaxial unaligned acoustic centers
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Well it's past midnight here and I haven't stopped listening to music except for dinner. The Bouncer is insanely palpably holographically realistic. LX is quite good for relaxed listening. All without tweaking XO.
I need to unearth the 45L cabs and enlarge the holes.
I need to unearth the 45L cabs and enlarge the holes.
LX MAOP 5/7, XO-less. Effectively time- and phase-aligned acoustic centers on MAOP5-axis; i.e. confirmed that different frequencies shared a single max-combined-SPL offset of the 5 (within practical range for lower hz) over the up-firing 7's physical center. (Off-axis, offset for in-phase/max-combined-SPL depended on frequency because the 7's physical and acoustic centers were no longer equidistant from the listener.) Very clean, smooth tone, and well-mannered sound; HF not really extended and not super detailed or dynamic. Holographic, but not in the same league as the 15"/ceramic-tweeter reflector-coaxial (much higher extension). Possibly the brand-new-but-damaged-cone-massaged-back-to-life 5 will improve with age....
(So found an easy way to determine acoustic center offset: just LX a pair of the same drivers.)
(So found an easy way to determine acoustic center offset: just LX a pair of the same drivers.)
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Hello,
Funny the egg. Long time ago I made a 2 way with an eggshape similar to what Focal proposed at this time (in the 80's!). The orientation of the egg was different.
Main topic : I have unused PTmini6 and I would be interested to test your waveguide. Do you have some dimensions or profile information to communicate?
Thank you
A year ago I bought a pair of Ayma 3" FR spekaers from AliExpress and had some vague ideas what to do with them. Those ideas were forgotten and when I had some money to spare after the Summer I ordered small "veneered" boxes for 3" speakers also from AliExpress and mated the speaker and the boxes. The finish is OK, but it's not wood veneer but PVC veneer 🙄. When I take of my glasses and turn off the light, they look perfectly OK ...
However, and this surprises me a lot - I cannot say they sound
, but they don't sound like 💩. On the contrary, they sound very decent for being so small (and a bit tacky).
However, and this surprises me a lot - I cannot say they sound
, but they don't sound like 💩. On the contrary, they sound very decent for being so small (and a bit tacky).Attachments
Dave/Others, I'm eager to build a NanoOnken Sub to compliment my recent MA Pluvia Onkens (above somewhere). I want something compact to mate well with the killer NanoOnkens. I'm using the Tang Band W6-1169 and a Dayton SA100. I have the alts of a very small sealed box at 62Hz, and a flabby ported Butterworth B4 cabinet at 36Hz... which I've drawn on my Baltic birch, but they just aren't very cool. I think there's an Onken somewhere in between that I'd prefer. I couldn't get the Onken ports to work out at 15mm or 18mm gaps; yet, I have a design for four 2x12mm=24mm ports (is that OK in a Vb of 11L;l not super restricted?) but there are other weird aspects I'd like y'all to check. Let me set the stage that this is a powered sub for <250Hz, not a full range speaker, as I've most often offered here. I did peruse the subs thread, and tight and tiny is not the norm there... I don't need 15Hz and room sized gear. I want something here that'll render a standup bass from Blue Summit or Golden Highway well ~ closer to 45Hz would be great. I have Wine/hornresp answers for the box, but the amp abutts the ports tight in the cabinet; impact? It's a sub so should I still damp the system as I have on full range Onkens; shoudl I cover the ports? What's your calc on Lport, given there'll be 4. Dave, what f3 do you get on this config? Anyway... help or direction to complete the NanoOnkenSub would be great ~ I've been completely gassed with some Onkens I've built, and I've destroyed others, I'd like to keep ths one.
I’d have to do the sims. Not all that low given the high Fs, but Q is not too low so that counters that.
SilverFlute W14 will similar Fs and Q but much smaller Vas hits hihgh 30s F10. F3 is a meaningless number to humans (ref Toole)
The TB i a left-over? Using a FR as a woofer is a bit strange.
Note that the extra volume of the chamfer on the driver cutout is usually really close tothe driver volume so can usually be ignored.
Note: a bass relex simulator will not account for the additional vent resistance.
dave
SilverFlute W14 will similar Fs and Q but much smaller Vas hits hihgh 30s F10. F3 is a meaningless number to humans (ref Toole)
The TB i a left-over? Using a FR as a woofer is a bit strange.
Note that the extra volume of the chamfer on the driver cutout is usually really close tothe driver volume so can usually be ignored.
Note: a bass relex simulator will not account for the additional vent resistance.
dave
Thanks.
I have the design shown with 30.1 cm depth and I think Lp of 5.85cm but my smallish Vb=11L box might be too small. I'll keep working...
My error, TB is new and is righteous W6-1139SIF small sub. Sd=140cm2, fs=35Hz, Qt=.4, R=3.6ohm, 83dB w/m
Understood. An 11L (internal) Butterworth b4 BR with 3" dia and long 98cm port does it but port fab is problematic. In part why I'd like to try Onken.
I have the design shown with 30.1 cm depth and I think Lp of 5.85cm but my smallish Vb=11L box might be too small. I'll keep working...
That makes a lot more sense.
I have no idea what a Butterworth B4 looks like. With modern modelers one isn’t pigeon holed into a “named” alignment.
Note that any sim requires an extrapolation step account for the high resistance slot vents. :et me have a look.
dave
I have no idea what a Butterworth B4 looks like. With modern modelers one isn’t pigeon holed into a “named” alignment.
Note that any sim requires an extrapolation step account for the high resistance slot vents. :et me have a look.
dave
Yeah, just a filtered and ported std bass reflex really.
Understood. Thank you VERY much. I don't have the knowledge/history or tech to get to the Onken solution for this driver, especially attempting to keep the box smallish. I know what I can do on the port areas most usefully in an Onken, and that's 2.4cm x 12.76cm x 4 ports; compares to the Sd favorably and I sense the tuning (via length) can be dialed in OK.
Well time has been scarce and I only mustered about an hour... to wire up a different reflector-point-source combination of 15" heavy unknown pro driver and funky B&O high-sensitivity tweeter, ~2khz 1st-order LPF and 2nd-order HPF using some Jantzen bits at hand (three 0.3mH and two 10uF). Pretty impressive, listening mono from perch (straight-line distance ~6.5m). Don't have the time and full supply of bits to do stereo or fine-tune XO. This method seems rather fool-proof.... The pictured combo cost $150+$7 (four drivers). I also got tall 80L steel cans $35/pr; should be a good fit. Anyway I idlefished several different 15 inchers and small tweeters to experiment further.
I finally completed my very first DIY speaker! I used the Mark Audio CHN-50P driver and based my design on the CHN50P-vented-box-standmount measurements from Mark Audio. Before this project, I had no woodworking experience, so I cut the MDF panels using a friend's CNC machine. For the baffle, I chose teak wood, which has a beautiful grain.
Also, I didn’t own a nail gun and had just two clamps, that’s why I used CA glue to put together the box and sanded it manually. As for the backside, I applied the spray paint to it, but it was not quite the way I wanted. There were some flaws like pimpling, orange peel effects, and sagging though generally they are not visible when looking from a far distance. A clear spray finish was given to the baffle.
Soundwise, I would say it is generally alright, only with very few bass. I consider this a learning process, and I will be expecting to get back to another project sooner!
Also, I didn’t own a nail gun and had just two clamps, that’s why I used CA glue to put together the box and sanded it manually. As for the backside, I applied the spray paint to it, but it was not quite the way I wanted. There were some flaws like pimpling, orange peel effects, and sagging though generally they are not visible when looking from a far distance. A clear spray finish was given to the baffle.
Soundwise, I would say it is generally alright, only with very few bass. I consider this a learning process, and I will be expecting to get back to another project sooner!
