That would not be much with matching, base-stoppers ,Re, and P/N/P/N staggering. A short is a short.... keep it simple.
Just jumping ahead , besides (the onboard thermal ... I want to keep an external I2C port for the cool display. I see many a library that will let you
"tag" an interrupt (or address) with your choice of text.
Eventually , mate the protection and even a preamp using a ESP8266 (below) - these are getting $5'ish cheap .
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It's best to use a separate microcontroller to run a display. I2C communication with a display really slows down the loop.
That little binary code system I came up with works well.
That little binary code system I came up with works well.
Is it possible to connect this separate microcontroller in your existed protection, upgrading the software of course?
The binary code system I put together used 4 pins plus another to annunciate a state change. What version of the board are you using? Are there spare bins accessible on it?
There are spare pins available on the board but you would need to tack wires onto the pins on the microcontroller. These pins connect to a PCA9536D port expander that is powered by the front panel display. These expanders do level shifting for you so the display controller can run at a different voltage than the control board (ESP32 or whatever)
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Thanks Jeff,lets keep this thread clear and for Pete's amplifier only.
I'm strongly interested for this display option but i know that is a big effort for you to modify an existed circuit just for me.
I'm strongly interested for this display option but i know that is a big effort for you to modify an existed circuit just for me.
I'm going to complete this ... power-board with MOSFET shutdown is packaged "arcwelder_power_package.zip" (with BOM).
"mini" EF3 is almost there , just need to shop the big semi's. OPTO is integrated on both with 3-pin (gnd/5V/control pinout).
Both SMD addons to these boards are optional on boards and the BOMS.
I might as well make a separate softstart module with the relays, resistors. Same basic opto control with 3 pin connector.
Control board will have MCU with as many digital outputs as I can (use) , I2C port expander and raw I2C port for expansion.
Pack the regulators under the nano's dual SIP connectors and power with small SMD bridge and filter caps. No trafo , one of my
trafo's has a nice auxiliary 1A 15-0-15V secondary,
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"mini" EF3 is almost there , just need to shop the big semi's. OPTO is integrated on both with 3-pin (gnd/5V/control pinout).
Both SMD addons to these boards are optional on boards and the BOMS.
I might as well make a separate softstart module with the relays, resistors. Same basic opto control with 3 pin connector.
Control board will have MCU with as many digital outputs as I can (use) , I2C port expander and raw I2C port for expansion.
Pack the regulators under the nano's dual SIP connectors and power with small SMD bridge and filter caps. No trafo , one of my
trafo's has a nice auxiliary 1A 15-0-15V secondary,
OS
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Yes , right at the output terminals. That opto is just to trigger overcurrent and not have output Re signals run all the way to the control board.
Just a single 5V/grnd./and output. Same with the power board and soft-start (5V/0V/I/0 +ac sense opto). No clocked digital IC's on any analog board. Only
dumb analog $hit on a analog board.
Digital board - all digital. Arduino works nice on ESP32 , loads right through the network ! Plus , port expander and I2C port. Trafo will be offboard.
ESP has many extra I/0's , run them all out to connectors (with a pullup) to make for much "tinkering" !
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Or , the next level. Make Vbe be controlled by a MCU at 240Mhz. 2 DAC's Offset bias + main ... you could program(non) switching behavior.
The "AI' class AB can be a reality.
The "AI' class AB can be a reality.
You see that possibility. But , what happens if the CPU makes the wrong decision ? Or fails ? A fully activated opto would short the Vbe
to 3+A per device. Set the range in analog , let the CPU "tweak" it.
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to 3+A per device. Set the range in analog , let the CPU "tweak" it.
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Hi Ostripper a courtesy call add 1uf caps on your power supply, these are the snubbers however also alter the behavior of the high capacity capacitors by adding 100uf caps. Thank me later.
hello Ostripper,
i have the BOM for both the spooky and hellraiser in my mouser project. is the Arcwelder mini BOM ready soon?
i have the BOM for both the spooky and hellraiser in my mouser project. is the Arcwelder mini BOM ready soon?
I'm real close on the mini-ops. There are changes in the layout , as well. Added the SMD (option) for protection and I am really getting "picky"
on the research for the semi's. Mini should be done today.
I am also re-doing the big "arcwelder" , larger 1K+ uf caps and 6 pairs output. I will fine tune it for either sub use or just a monster 500W precision
output stage.
PS - I need to power this 1KW sub , oooh it sounds lovely !!!
on the research for the semi's. Mini should be done today.
I am also re-doing the big "arcwelder" , larger 1K+ uf caps and 6 pairs output. I will fine tune it for either sub use or just a monster 500W precision
output stage.
PS - I need to power this 1KW sub , oooh it sounds lovely !!!
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Another boom, boom man? I hope your neighbors are far enough away 🙂
That's what I thought about the above driver (boom ,boom). It actually has 90db SPL and a very high SQ for a car sub. I tried quite
a few subs (car subs) , most sound like plastic chinese pistons with low spl (82-84). This one will do a VERY low THD 20mm p-p with
my present 200W Spooky. But , I only have room for 1 sub .... I want the best with the 30+mm Xmax.
This one sounds so good , I have been relistening to my FLAC collection , really amazed at how much better this is compared to a
typical OEM !! With TV or average music use ... the bass is sooooo smooth and deep - tuned the box to 24hz , perfect !! It is sounding
even better as it breaks in. Not as stiff (higher VAS) as many other (boom-boom) drivers.
PS - a nice 300W+ AB amp should really make for a perfect setup. I got 132DB SPL at 200W !
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a few subs (car subs) , most sound like plastic chinese pistons with low spl (82-84). This one will do a VERY low THD 20mm p-p with
my present 200W Spooky. But , I only have room for 1 sub .... I want the best with the 30+mm Xmax.
This one sounds so good , I have been relistening to my FLAC collection , really amazed at how much better this is compared to a
typical OEM !! With TV or average music use ... the bass is sooooo smooth and deep - tuned the box to 24hz , perfect !! It is sounding
even better as it breaks in. Not as stiff (higher VAS) as many other (boom-boom) drivers.
PS - a nice 300W+ AB amp should really make for a perfect setup. I got 132DB SPL at 200W !
OS
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I like bass too but in proportion to the rest of the music. I have some 15” woofers in a 3 cu ft sealed box, I like the response of them, make the kick drum sound more real than other speakers I have that are tuned ports.
What’s the alignment for your sub?
I do wonder about claims or requirements of low THD for a sub, how does one determine the THD? Or even the spl for that matter?
Lots of things I wonder about 🙂 like why one needs hi res audio for a sub?
What’s the alignment for your sub?
I do wonder about claims or requirements of low THD for a sub, how does one determine the THD? Or even the spl for that matter?
Lots of things I wonder about 🙂 like why one needs hi res audio for a sub?
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68L VAS /.4 QTS /.44 QES FS=25hz. I have a 70L box with 2 -125cm/sq (flared slot) ports. I can block one port for 24hz or keep both open for
38hz. Saw this 'trick" on the 2K$ SVS PB4000 sub.
When I block one port , I can hear just the slightest turbulance <30hz with 20+ mm p-p.
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Rubber surrounds and a more flexible spider make for a lower THD sub , there are many spl meters that have timers/spl/thd - www.sonicelectronix.com/item-195485-SPL-LAB-MINI-BASS-METER-V2.html
I also did not think it made a difference till I tried this sub , I was wrong....
The Xover and phase is also crucial for good SQ , my sub xovers at 75hz and I shift phase -30 degrees.
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I also did not think it made a difference till I tried this sub , I was wrong....
The Xover and phase is also crucial for good SQ , my sub xovers at 75hz and I shift phase -30 degrees.
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