Between the pads CW+ and WIP+. You can actually see it in the photos between the blue and green wire 🙈
I couldn't see it in the pics either, but I'm glad you found it!Between the pads CW+ and WIP+. You can actually see it in the photos between the blue and green wire 🙈
It's awesome to find the issue, but frustrating during the process...
Can I guess that you did not twist and tin the strands of your wire before inserting them into the board... and that the whisker was just a stray strand of the wire that didn't make it through the hole?
Ask me how I know that can also be a problem...

Or was it just a stray whisker from something else?
now, logic behind statement that every word counts , when reading advice from someone (counting just proper ones, but discerning proper ones from weed is matter of mileage)
reading short between CW+ and GND, if culprit was wire whisker/strand shorting CW+ and WIP+ pads, is possible only if Volpot is in place, still connected with wires to pcb, and volume setting at min
if volpot wires are desoldered (at least WIP+ wire), reading can be low for a moment if non-powered JFet is jerked in gate conduction, but certainly not for long
so, be it, let's quote Mighty Myself :
writing this not to remind anyone how clever I am and I'm always right ............. quite contrary - I've made all errors possible, and then some, each twice and then some; been helped many times and been most helped when I invested efforts to really follow what's given as advice
heck, when guided properly (Boss calling from her work and ordering what to do), I'm even able to finish cooking, while knowing well that I'll be never able to get complete picture of process
reading short between CW+ and GND, if culprit was wire whisker/strand shorting CW+ and WIP+ pads, is possible only if Volpot is in place, still connected with wires to pcb, and volume setting at min
if volpot wires are desoldered (at least WIP+ wire), reading can be low for a moment if non-powered JFet is jerked in gate conduction, but certainly not for long
so, be it, let's quote Mighty Myself :
freebee needs to desolder volpot wires from pcb, check it, and check continuity between gnd and CW pad on pcb ......
then, either pot is bad (or wires leading to it), or there is short somewhere on pcb
writing this not to remind anyone how clever I am and I'm always right ............. quite contrary - I've made all errors possible, and then some, each twice and then some; been helped many times and been most helped when I invested efforts to really follow what's given as advice
heck, when guided properly (Boss calling from her work and ordering what to do), I'm even able to finish cooking, while knowing well that I'll be never able to get complete picture of process
^ 
That's also... why... pics... pics... pics... of boards at current state of troubleshooting are key.
Boards clearly show pot wires in place on PCB. Perhaps pots were disconnected from circuit at pot itself ... but... you clearly said... to desolder wires from PCB... so...

That's also... why... pics... pics... pics... of boards at current state of troubleshooting are key.
Boards clearly show pot wires in place on PCB. Perhaps pots were disconnected from circuit at pot itself ... but... you clearly said... to desolder wires from PCB... so...
I didn't tin it beforehand as it was already a tight fit. Indeed a bit frustrating, however I'm glad it's nothing serious.I couldn't see it in the pics either, but I'm glad you found it!
It's awesome to find the issue, but frustrating during the process...
Can I guess that you did not twist and tin the strands of your wire before inserting them into the board... and that the whisker was just a stray strand of the wire that didn't make it through the hole?
Ask me how I know that can also be a problem...
Or was it just a stray whisker from something else?
Need new glasses 🤓I can't see it on picture
Now, why you didn't saw it 30 posts back, only you know
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Thank you Zen Mod and IAIMH, just ordered my balanced pre kit!
I haven’t had a preamp in a while - this will be a fun addition to have around and rotate as needed.
Best,
Anand.
I haven’t had a preamp in a while - this will be a fun addition to have around and rotate as needed.
Best,
Anand.
Yes, but likely the phase of the distortion residual will change accordingly. Calls for experimentation.
Iron Pre up and playing. Sounds great in combination with F6 (which I thought of as a bit clinical). Iron Pre gives music a 'live' like feeling (more midrange focused). Love the sound! Thanks for all your help and this wonderful pre ZM!
Evening all, I received my invitation but I can’t remember what I requested. Can someone check please?
Cheers, sp
Cheers, sp
^ Hi Sp,
Very kind of you to ask. You're 100% allowed to change your mind. You expressed interest in a balanced kit, but you can get an SE kit (or both) if that better suits your needs. Buy whatever you'll build and love.
We definitely don't want people to have to pay for shipping multiple times if they want more than one kit. The survey (due to my error) wouldn't let people sign up for both types. We tried to fix that later, but I'm sure not everyone was able to respond twice.
Cheers,
Patrick
Very kind of you to ask. You're 100% allowed to change your mind. You expressed interest in a balanced kit, but you can get an SE kit (or both) if that better suits your needs. Buy whatever you'll build and love.
We definitely don't want people to have to pay for shipping multiple times if they want more than one kit. The survey (due to my error) wouldn't let people sign up for both types. We tried to fix that later, but I'm sure not everyone was able to respond twice.
Cheers,
Patrick
There seems to be a huge appetite for the Iron Pre. Greedy Boyz will not be disappointed, that's for sure. This preamp is (sounds) very special.
But what next ZM? Now that we've tasted some ZM magic, what next to build 🤔
But what next ZM? Now that we've tasted some ZM magic, what next to build 🤔
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