@ItsAllInMyHead & @ZenMod: thank you both for the work and the contribution to the community.
I hope I'll be able once to give back.
Cheers
Christophe
you can always put 30W LED reflector on top of the case
if you want blue, heat resistant blue plastic film
14 Pin Ribbon Problem:
I bought NKK 633-ISDC Cable from Mouser. Called and still waiting for reply on Quote from Mouser to NKK to find sockets that fit this ribbon.
Are there any suitable complete ribbon part No's. from Mouser or Digi-Key that are being used on the Iron?
Mouser tech is at a loss to help.
Thanks H.
I bought NKK 633-ISDC Cable from Mouser. Called and still waiting for reply on Quote from Mouser to NKK to find sockets that fit this ribbon.
Are there any suitable complete ribbon part No's. from Mouser or Digi-Key that are being used on the Iron?
Mouser tech is at a loss to help.
Thanks H.
You have offered up 2 solutions. One way is a guess but the pin rail may be certain. I'll order both.
Thankyou Reima!
standard arrangement of IDC/flat cable is straight-through, meaning that one connector is having pin inside and second connector is having pin outside
When I ordered some of the resistors for IronPre I did a stupid mistake and got some 0.4W types which are "miniature" resistors only about 3mm wide and with very thin wires. Specs are fine like 0.25% and 25 ppm/K. I guess these can be used but what do you think about them?
E.g. 330R for the JFET gates........should be fine.....but will look funny as PCB is made for the "bigger brothers"......
E.g. 330R for the JFET gates........should be fine.....but will look funny as PCB is made for the "bigger brothers"......
My problem is the ribbon and board are female. I wanted from Mouser a socket, circuit board side male and male to ribbon. Mouser tech could not find anything.
The Samtec rail is male, male and would/should work. The Wurth socket may but don't know if a locating cutout will match NKK ribbon.
Wanted to beat the 4th of July rush and get order in. But, so many other projects in bed with me it doesn't matter who I sleep with or in what order.
Danke ZM and Reima!
just go for it
none of resistors is critical regarding dissipation
use smaller as you wish, just don't push bigger fancy drek .......... as some are doing ......... being hypnotized with exclusivity
magic words for pcb is "14pin 2.54mm Male Box Header"
then just choose adequate pre-finished cable
or make your own, ordering cable connectors and some cable
assemblage is easy, for those small ones - small bench vice is adequate tool
Can I be added to the list for round 2 please, if there is such a list?
Excited about this pre 🙂
Excited about this pre 🙂
^ The only list is the remainder of people from the 'original' list. They'll have first priority for the 2nd round of kits. If there are any left over, then they will be sold through the store 'normally' first-come-first-served. After that... they'll be sold normally though the store.
@Holzarbeiter - Let me know if you've got your cables sorted out. If not, I can give you exactly what to get from Amazon. Much cheaper (typically) than Mouser etc.
@Holzarbeiter - Let me know if you've got your cables sorted out. If not, I can give you exactly what to get from Amazon. Much cheaper (typically) than Mouser etc.
IAIMH,
I ordered the two parts provided by Reima that may or may not work. There is no way to tell as the pics on site are always poor. I may end up cobbling something out of that.
Could you give me the part no. if for nothing else it may help others as more Iron is built. I won't know until this Fri. if successful. I will be needing another cable(s) for a BAl Iron when the 2nd round hits also.
Thank You H.
https://www.amazon.com/14-Pin-Strai...513&sprefix=male+2.54mm+14+pin,aps,317&sr=8-3
and
https://www.amazon.com/Sydien-2-54m...6&sprefix=female+2.54mm+14+pin,aps,119&sr=8-6
Make sure the length for the cable will work for you. If not, get one a bit longer.
and
https://www.amazon.com/Sydien-2-54m...6&sprefix=female+2.54mm+14+pin,aps,119&sr=8-6
Make sure the length for the cable will work for you. If not, get one a bit longer.
Yes, I'm able to adapt as I will build the case around all the bits.
Thanks for the links they are a huge help. Could you in the next updated BOM provide this info?
Any time. Happy to help.
I can add a few things to the BoM as examples.
Almost all parts of this type will work. If I recall correctly, just be sure to set up the indexing the way you like it. I'm going by memory, which is never great. But, if you'll take a look at the cables, they'll have the notch for indexing into the box header in one orientation or the other with relation to the cable and to each other connector. It's not standard (to my knowledge) ... As long as pin 1 goes to pin 1... you're good, but certain orientations make life a bit easier for wire routing. Me... I may not have done it in the most orthodox fashion since I built my own cables. Also ... look out for D9.
See link below for what they call A, B, and C types as examples. Also... a bit longer and more colorful cable... The one linked previously is a type B, I think. The link below goes to a type A, but shows clear pics of all three. They'll all work, but you may like some better than others. Set up your male headers accordingly to avoid oopsies. It's easier (IMO) to swap the orientation of the male headers on the twister board than to fool with getting the exact cable you want / need and getting everything to match the silkscreen and not have too many kinks / twists. YMMV... grain of salt ...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JM1PKX...ndustrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwy
I can add a few things to the BoM as examples.
Almost all parts of this type will work. If I recall correctly, just be sure to set up the indexing the way you like it. I'm going by memory, which is never great. But, if you'll take a look at the cables, they'll have the notch for indexing into the box header in one orientation or the other with relation to the cable and to each other connector. It's not standard (to my knowledge) ... As long as pin 1 goes to pin 1... you're good, but certain orientations make life a bit easier for wire routing. Me... I may not have done it in the most orthodox fashion since I built my own cables. Also ... look out for D9.
See link below for what they call A, B, and C types as examples. Also... a bit longer and more colorful cable... The one linked previously is a type B, I think. The link below goes to a type A, but shows clear pics of all three. They'll all work, but you may like some better than others. Set up your male headers accordingly to avoid oopsies. It's easier (IMO) to swap the orientation of the male headers on the twister board than to fool with getting the exact cable you want / need and getting everything to match the silkscreen and not have too many kinks / twists. YMMV... grain of salt ...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JM1PKX...ndustrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwy
Yes, as I'm mixing cables and sockets I don't know how it'll end up. Yet. If it is incompatable there is the rail Reima recommended. Or, as you and Mighty Moi have stated. Make your own. I'm sure to do that as I want to save the cable I have. This new info will be useful for the Bal Iron as soon as it comes in and system is updated. These builds are always in a constant state of improvement. But as you know most info comes late after decisions are made.
Thanks again, H.