I forgot to give a Shout Out to all the Health Care Workers like Ian. All dem extra brutal COVID hours must of been difficult especially with churning out Audio products in parallel.
Along with giving a Shout Out to Health Care Workers throughout the world along with Billionaires that donate entire hospitals, a special Shout Out to Carlo Urbani. R.I.P.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carlo_Urbani
His early detection of SARS (COVID-03) possibly prevented a mass extinction and allowed SARS to eventually fizzle out. He sacrificed his life to alert the world. With people now experiencing a pandemic, not endemic, hopefully they appreciate his sacrifice just a bit more. There's no guaranteed SARS would of mutated to a less dangerous strain if steps weren't taken to combat.
I was Ground Zero of SARS so many Health Care Workers put their lives on the front-line at that time. I still have PTSD from SARS, so COVID-19 was of no surprise. Now I have double-PTSD from SARS/COVID-19 but humans never learn from the past so I hold humanity in low-esteem but Health Care Workers in the highest-esteem.
Hello,
In the attachment you can see the removal tool made by Hirose.. If there is some kind of '' locking mechanism '' being used to keep the plug correctly positioned this mechanism will probably also guarantee the desired specs.
When doing maintenance on a brake system of a train the manufacture will specify a specific hex bolt to be used and it would get me fired if i would decide to use torx bolts because they are easier to remove after being under a train for six years. Usually in engineering things are being done with a reason, sometimes can be done differently without any negative side effects, But better be safe than soory.
Greetings, eduard
I still have AS318B 45/49 in stock for sale, but only one pair of 90/98 is for test, and the selling price and profit of 90/98 are higher. I have no reason to deliberately say that 90/98 is not better. I tested it many years ago, using Ian's FIFO with twistedpearaudio BUFFALO-IIISE PRO. After I replaced the BUFFALO with Ian's 9038Q2MPi and bisesik transformer, I didn't test it again.
I think that the higher frequency 90/98 clock is only used to play higher frequency music signal, so play the same frequency music signal using the higher frequency clock, the sound should be of course the same. If someone claims that 90/98 clocking makes the sound better, it should just be playing a higher frequency music signal.
The thick pure copper card socket made of high-quality copper is itself a kind of grounding box, so it can absorb the noise transmitted by the entire household power system through the ground wire, thereby improving the sound quality. However, copper will make the sound more low-frequency, so the design of the ground box needs to strike a balance between the ratio of copper and obsidian.
Attachments
MUSETEC is actually at the same level as AS318B, which is much cheaper in price.
Hello,
Suppose you would go on a nice two week vacation and during your absence an audiophile friend with access to your mancave would exchange the clocks would you notice it?
I remember enjoying a nice high efficiency system in a tropical country. Before leaving i asked my friend if i could take some pictures and then i noticed the transparent speaker cables were at least 80 % of the surface tarnished.
The last few months i installed some diy bass traps after putting some acoustic panels on ceiling and side walls. I am sure the latest clocks from Ian will be better with bass traps then the sophisticated Italian clocks without the traps.
For 1000$/Euro you can get a pretty impressive improvement by installing some panels. Almost every cinema, theatre will invest time and money in acoustics and they already have the advantage of having a big number of human bodies inside.
It is pretty easy to achieve some improvements with just some basic materials. These black foam egg crates don't work for us
The ones with the leaves printing on the outside are the bass traps. In order to be effective they need to have some volume.
The perforated ones are a bit difficult to diy but the white ones is just a wooden frame with some kind of rockwool inside covered by some fabric.
Greetings, eduard
Suppose you would go on a nice two week vacation and during your absence an audiophile friend with access to your mancave would exchange the clocks would you notice it?
I remember enjoying a nice high efficiency system in a tropical country. Before leaving i asked my friend if i could take some pictures and then i noticed the transparent speaker cables were at least 80 % of the surface tarnished.
The last few months i installed some diy bass traps after putting some acoustic panels on ceiling and side walls. I am sure the latest clocks from Ian will be better with bass traps then the sophisticated Italian clocks without the traps.
For 1000$/Euro you can get a pretty impressive improvement by installing some panels. Almost every cinema, theatre will invest time and money in acoustics and they already have the advantage of having a big number of human bodies inside.
It is pretty easy to achieve some improvements with just some basic materials. These black foam egg crates don't work for us
The ones with the leaves printing on the outside are the bass traps. In order to be effective they need to have some volume.
The perforated ones are a bit difficult to diy but the white ones is just a wooden frame with some kind of rockwool inside covered by some fabric.
Greetings, eduard
I'm only commenting on U.FL connectors in the context of this hobby or more specifically Q3 to TransportPi. As for the removal tool for one's workbench or mission critical applications that's out of scope.
I looked through my Mouser and Digikey past orders and only found these two items:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/hirose-electric-co-ltd/U-FL-2LP-066N1-AC-100/4867034
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/hirose-electric-co-ltd/U-FL-2LPHF6-066N1-AC-100/11688922
When I used "other" U.FL connectors, I had a really difficult time getting it to snap in without an external tool such as a small screwdriver. This took hours, sometimes days.
When I switched to the linked U.FL connectors, it was a breeze just to snap in with my finger. This took less than 5 minutes.
Hello,
We are talking about the same connectors ( the ones sold by Ian and Audiophonics.. As you can see in the technical paper there is a kind of '' locking mechanism '' . The tool i got from Hirose can be kind of partially positioned between the plug and the receptacle so when moving away the tool from the board the plug will be removed very easily.
I did not study the complete Hirose information but you should have of course two parts designed to be used with each other.
Greetings, Eduard
We are talking about the same connectors ( the ones sold by Ian and Audiophonics.. As you can see in the technical paper there is a kind of '' locking mechanism '' . The tool i got from Hirose can be kind of partially positioned between the plug and the receptacle so when moving away the tool from the board the plug will be removed very easily.
I did not study the complete Hirose information but you should have of course two parts designed to be used with each other.
Greetings, Eduard
Hi,
They are similar as a product, but the brand may differ. I use the official Hirose brand. Other brands, I have zero success.
I consider it locking if it snaps in whether with a finger or a tool. If it did not lock, it would easily become loose. That's where I had trouble with other brands, they would come loose and never lock. It would take forever just to get it to lock with a small screwdriver. With the official Hirose, this isn't a issue.
Once snapped-in, if it communicates between Ian devices then I consider that locked and working. I don't know how a tool from Hirose would come into play in this situation, but I could see it useful in a non-Hirose brand connector. But with the official Hirose connector, the tool can be bypassed.
Cheers
They are similar as a product, but the brand may differ. I use the official Hirose brand. Other brands, I have zero success.
I consider it locking if it snaps in whether with a finger or a tool. If it did not lock, it would easily become loose. That's where I had trouble with other brands, they would come loose and never lock. It would take forever just to get it to lock with a small screwdriver. With the official Hirose, this isn't a issue.
Once snapped-in, if it communicates between Ian devices then I consider that locked and working. I don't know how a tool from Hirose would come into play in this situation, but I could see it useful in a non-Hirose brand connector. But with the official Hirose connector, the tool can be bypassed.
Cheers
I buggered up one of u.fl connectors on a Fifo Q3. Luckily, there another one under the PCB that can be used. I bought a couple spare connectors from Ian, but have not tried removing the damaged one and replacing it yet. I also managed to damage one of the yet smaller ones on a wireless card for an SFF computer mobo. Luckily, with a very small pair of pliers/tweezers, I was able to reshape the wall of the connector and get a sure fit. Those micro guys are difficult to work with. Sometimes they are just don't want to get lined up perfectly, so they mate with that familiar click.
Expectation bias is powerful to ignore. We want there to be a difference, when in reality there isn't.
Yes, I use to jump through hoops too and finding any tool that can get the connectors to lock. But once I exclusively use the official Hirose connectors, it's all a breeze. I'm not afraid to unplug anymore knowing the nightmare to plug back. It's all Plug-N-Play like how it should be in the first place.
Hello,
Hirose made this tool especially for removing the plug from the board. Probably this tool will the less stress upon the plug.
In the Hirose official paper the contact resistance is specified for 30 mating/unmating cycles.
I guess most diy builds here have seen a few cycles. I would prefer an easier solution. Maybe if you are a Swiss matchmaker it could be ok
Greetings, eduard
Hirose made this tool especially for removing the plug from the board. Probably this tool will the less stress upon the plug.
In the Hirose official paper the contact resistance is specified for 30 mating/unmating cycles.
I guess most diy builds here have seen a few cycles. I would prefer an easier solution. Maybe if you are a Swiss matchmaker it could be ok
Greetings, eduard
Hello,
If you take a glance at the technical drawing you see there is kind of locking mechanism. You have to take care that before trying to mate the two parts the plug is on the exact right position. If you are just a little bit wrong trying to connect thing you will deform the outer part. Probably not possible but the center part should be a bit longer so it will help us getting the plug in the exact position before making the complete connection.
Greetings, Eduard
If you take a glance at the technical drawing you see there is kind of locking mechanism. You have to take care that before trying to mate the two parts the plug is on the exact right position. If you are just a little bit wrong trying to connect thing you will deform the outer part. Probably not possible but the center part should be a bit longer so it will help us getting the plug in the exact position before making the complete connection.
Greetings, Eduard
Hi,
I would argue that an official Hirose connector would put less stress on the socket. A non-official connector, since it doesn't seamlessly plug-in, would need additional pressure / tools in order for it to lock. There's also more pressure to unplug while an official Hirose connector seamlessly unplugs with just slight pressure. Yes, most diy builds the insertion cycle is irrelevant. The easier solution for I, someone that likes to keep things simple, is just to go with the official Hirose connector. It's easy to add to a Mouser / Digikey Project as a thrown-in. It saves a ton of stress and possibly damage to the sockets by going official. I never damaged the sockets even though non-official connectors were a pain when I was at the stage I wasn't aware of official Hirose connectors.
If there was an exact position, this issue would of been warned or brought up a long time ago. Once in the socket, the head of the connector freely twists. There's no fixed point. As long as the center is locked in the middle, it's fine and rotates.
It's a hobby, not a mission critical Industrial task. Like the above posts mentioned, this is used with WiFi adapters too. The connector plugs between antenna and Wifi adapter. If there's a connection, WiFi is working normally. That's all that's needed, no need for any exact Swiss precision.
Like I mentioned, a tool makes sense if you are using non-Hirose connectors. Once you give official Hirose connectors a try, I doubt anyone would go back to non-Hirose connectors or feel the need for a tool ever again.
Cheers
Hello,
I bought the ufl cables from the same supplier as the circuit boards so i expect that both sides of the connection are Hirose.
Hirose would sell you a tool that you wont need for their connectors?
If it isnt that critical why use these kind of connectors at all??
If you take a look at the number of boards already appeared on the market and the proclaimed gains in quality with the latest type it is all rather high tech/serious, no middle of the road technique.
In my daily job we do maintenance on all kind of train parts If you would know how many pages you have to read in order to be allowed to do a certain task you would understand most things have to be executed in a certain way to be accepted in the next stage of the complete process. I am not even allowed to bring something from my toolbox at home but this is more related to personal safety.
Greetings, eduard
I bought the ufl cables from the same supplier as the circuit boards so i expect that both sides of the connection are Hirose.
Hirose would sell you a tool that you wont need for their connectors?
If it isnt that critical why use these kind of connectors at all??
If you take a look at the number of boards already appeared on the market and the proclaimed gains in quality with the latest type it is all rather high tech/serious, no middle of the road technique.
In my daily job we do maintenance on all kind of train parts If you would know how many pages you have to read in order to be allowed to do a certain task you would understand most things have to be executed in a certain way to be accepted in the next stage of the complete process. I am not even allowed to bring something from my toolbox at home but this is more related to personal safety.
Greetings, eduard