Iron Pre Essentials Kits For The DIYA Store - Register Your Interest

Yea, I think I originally was on the list for a balanced kit. Today my good news email came, and I settled on a single ended kit, even though I've got a couple of Pa's amp clones that could be driven balanced. So maybe there's another balanced kit out there now for someone?

I really really want the goofy/awesome custom chassis for this one. 😊
:worship:
 
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and it sounds amazing , not that I expected anything less. Must be the purple indicator LEDs 🙂 - much improved over blue

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Umm. Thanks chromenuts.

I have F5Tc, F4, 1st gen VFET, F6, Honey Badger, M2, M2X, MO FO.
Do any apply or need Bal?

Thanks, H.
@Holzarbeiter

of Papa's things circulating here, Bal inputs ..... are practically all Alephs, J2, and all PL amps

of mine ....... darn, too complicated to remember (but luckily codyt made a list to call for), Babelfish J, Babelfish XJ, Babelfish XA252, Boo/Pooh, Plethora of Pinjatas and all amps having "P" as suffix,


Silly ZM

I knew there is more, but was lazy to check

Bal - F1, F4 can be
 
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yup, taking in account

-for balanced F4 you need two regular F4s (see FW/products/F4 page/manual)
-F4 is current buffer without voltage gain; Iron Pre balanced will give you 6db of gain, so starting with common 2Vrms from source , ending in 4Vrms , that's 2W@8R

as always, one really need to know what are reasons to go balanced route; if needed power is not one of them, in 99% of cases regular gain power amp (with moderate power) with balanced input is ticking all the boxes

possible reasons for going balanced, not really in order of importance...... but I can't stress enough how complicated is their inter-relation ....... or at least how complicated it can be:

- having really decent and proper source(s) with balanced out
-really preferring nulling of all even harmonics in THD Spectra
-owning and working in recording studio, with miles of cables
-needing high power - bridged OS is very logical way of doing it
-desperately needing new project, something which one didn't already made
-there is certainly more but ZM is lazy
 
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Everything is Dual Mono. I want to bridge, esp. the F4, but not clear yet on how it's done. Right now Dual Amping. I have an adversion to magic smoke.

Most of the speakers can't handle over 80 Watts. Currently breaking in Audio Nirvana 15 inch Ferrites.

Range Wars are expensive!

I'll stay with SE as you have suggested. The synopsis helped.

Thanks so much again for all you've done for us!
 
read, think, ask, we reply, we laugh together:

https://www.firstwatt.com/f4.html

https://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/prod_f4_man.pdf

edit: when you're really for asking, always line up exact specifics of system you're having, expectations and goals

then we can talk business; without all/majority of facts we are having fun, but not really progressing

Thanks so much again for all you've done for us!

I'm not really doing anything special, I'm just feeding my own ego
 

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If only that iron had some gain in front of it.... like a killer discrete opamp gain stage with low output impedance.... it's almost like you could have a modular 20db gain IRON FE that could drive a follower stage.... if only there was someone on the forum messing with something like that.... (I'll see myself out... 🙂)

Just kidding, Iron Pre is well thought out and checks alot of boxes.... well done. 👍
 
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