FR at 30hz ! are you joke ?
PS in a box near over 2 times Vas, pronounced the distortion too high to be useful
is a fullrange with only 16g mms ,be gentle , and use TL- Onken you must preserve the mid ,
look at planet10 design do not use br
look at planet10 design do not use br
Thanks, I will try.
I also found this page with useful tools, including WinISD and some to use online: https://www.thewindowsclub.com/design-speaker-enclosure-in-windows
Thanks for the information, I see that you are experts in speaker cabinet design but as I never design or built a speaker cabinet I thought I could build something simpler like the previous shown example or open baffle for example like this for Monacor SP-205/8:
But I see that there can be a lot of technical issues that might not work well with this SB Acoustics SB20FRPC30-8 and I don't know how to use or don't have good knowledge. So as a starter I would like to use an existent speaker cabinet project that could be more simpler and cheaper to assemble but if it's not adequate for this full-range speaker it's better not to try it or use another speaker to achieve good and tested results. 🙂
Try this
https://www.micka.de/en/index.php#ideal
With a 50 liters box you get a 2dB hump and worse bass extension compated to the 100 L box but lower group delay.
Lowering the tuning flatten the response but also increas group delay, TANSTAAFL.
https://www.micka.de/en/index.php#ideal
With a 50 liters box you get a 2dB hump and worse bass extension compated to the 100 L box but lower group delay.
Lowering the tuning flatten the response but also increas group delay, TANSTAAFL.
Alexandre, if you want something smaller and simple SB20FRPC30-8 will work really well in around 30 liter (+/-10%) closed box.
For best results, make internal dimensions in a 1/1,6/2,5 ratio, or 1/1,25/1,6 ratio
Add some light stuffing, 6-7 grams of polyester wadding per liter of volume.
For first build, use MDF. Its easy to work with, easy to finish and reasonably priced. For box of that volume 18mm thickness is enough, with some bracing recomended.
And thats it.
For best results, make internal dimensions in a 1/1,6/2,5 ratio, or 1/1,25/1,6 ratio
Add some light stuffing, 6-7 grams of polyester wadding per liter of volume.
For first build, use MDF. Its easy to work with, easy to finish and reasonably priced. For box of that volume 18mm thickness is enough, with some bracing recomended.
And thats it.
Please don't use this design for SB Acoustics, it will works awful. Bear in mind that Monacor SP-205/8 and SB20FRPC are very different drivers, look magnet size.
I built this box with Monacor, it sounds really well for chamber music, vocals, jazz, folk and classic rock. Not for heavy metal or drum'n'bass. High sensitivity. If you want something good, simple and cheap go for it. 10-12mm plywood is ok, or chipboard. Avoid MDF.
For SB20FRP you need a bassreflex or better some TL. Maybe the bigger FrugalHorn or Karlsonator 8.
And what Davor said has a lot of sense.
These box is small and easy to do for first project. It will produce enough and clean bass.
Cutting and sanding MDF produce nasty dust. If you works ar home better use 15-18mm plywood or OSB.
These box is small and easy to do for first project. It will produce enough and clean bass.
Cutting and sanding MDF produce nasty dust. If you works ar home better use 15-18mm plywood or OSB.
closed box do not work so well , to much back pressure on thin cone 16gr
http://www.mh-audio.nl/Calculators/TQWT.asp
You should really make some explanation for such a claim.
Back pressure is what controls the cone movement around and below system resonance. And cone control is one of the most important factor in avoiding distortion and getting good power handling.
Well designed closed box is one of the best in that respect and surely the simplest.
And guess what, vented box and similar sistems also produce "back pressure" at tuning frequency. Thats why cone movement at tuning frequency is so small.
yep but ruin the mid range , good for sub
One of the best bookshelf speakers I ever heard had a cabinet made of concrete, so... clearly many different materials can work.
I don't think there's anything special about plywood. And then there's thickness, and internal bracing, etc.
It's false that you can't make a good sounding cabinet out of MDF.
The first serious speaker I ever built was the Ariel which was veneer wrapped MDF. Not a simple build but sounded good.