The letters BTL (PBTL) already denote the bridged (or parallel bridged) connection of amplifiers.
If you need power from an autonomous power source, you will have to use a battery from a car or an electric scooter 🙂
You could feed the woofer from a separate amp and the mid/tweeter from another.
If you need power from an autonomous power source, you will have to use a battery from a car or an electric scooter 🙂
You could feed the woofer from a separate amp and the mid/tweeter from another.
42 V supply for Xenon car headlamps?
12V in 42V out?
But who needs so much output in a portable system?
12V in 42V out?
But who needs so much output in a portable system?
You cannot beat these amp boards for the $, provided you use an adequate power supply.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294358608028?hash=item448923e89c:g:HzYAAOSwajdg5rgC&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4EeOe10+3rRm/TXUAWibUFnlbhVO1t91JbkhTwQMDoKOoOzbYE1r1y+VILFZ7fhFQRttGRnMzQcdEc4f2MTynLx5xK4qV1bHbiNqZa5Sgv2gxnA3yzvGxQtm7//bNmqKj792ty9jM3J94QilcBPZ+hgQZeg9wO8IhfxYGTEePoOCiyJdMXDcmYZePIRUnbh74NcgGMwSn/gVx3Oo8F4A6idYl7XTyGeU22m8nyeRTDvkXP8NU33TBn47uYtOO3vh5RGQW7vy7d29IqHwsWw4+3hB5jxuqofEvWudr+9jV48V|tkp:Bk9SR8zW7YWPYQ
I always add some Panasonic FC onto the pins to the main ps caps. Never attempt to remove and replace those, that fails every time.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294358608028?hash=item448923e89c:g:HzYAAOSwajdg5rgC&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4EeOe10+3rRm/TXUAWibUFnlbhVO1t91JbkhTwQMDoKOoOzbYE1r1y+VILFZ7fhFQRttGRnMzQcdEc4f2MTynLx5xK4qV1bHbiNqZa5Sgv2gxnA3yzvGxQtm7//bNmqKj792ty9jM3J94QilcBPZ+hgQZeg9wO8IhfxYGTEePoOCiyJdMXDcmYZePIRUnbh74NcgGMwSn/gVx3Oo8F4A6idYl7XTyGeU22m8nyeRTDvkXP8NU33TBn47uYtOO3vh5RGQW7vy7d29IqHwsWw4+3hB5jxuqofEvWudr+9jV48V|tkp:Bk9SR8zW7YWPYQ
I always add some Panasonic FC onto the pins to the main ps caps. Never attempt to remove and replace those, that fails every time.
I tried this too, but unforunately the bass and treble was pretty weak (maybe filthered)
Looks like you can get these from as low as $3 from Aliexpress, but maybe they use a cheaper chip than the TPA3116D2 as advertised ?
Do not believe everything that they write (or read carefully). Everything obeys the laws of physics: voltage, resistance, current, power. Power can be specified at THD >10% and a load of 2 ohms ((For two channels together).
From the reviews on the ZK1002 (they use two 3116 chips for stereo): "... a product with 2 x 100 watts does not actually consume 50 watts, but with a strong signal it will not reach more than 25 watts of sound power, and then distortion and noise ."
The device is not boxed. Power supply not supplied. Can use truck battery 🙂
This board (without op amp) is still the best solution. https://www.ebay.de/itm/401614836334
Clear and crisp sound, powerfull bass and treble and low distortion even at max. I would even recommend 2 of these for stereo, instead of a stereo amplifier board.
Clear and crisp sound, powerfull bass and treble and low distortion even at max. I would even recommend 2 of these for stereo, instead of a stereo amplifier board.
Last edited:
Almost as endless as 'doubling output power by paralleling amps...' ;-)
I'll get my coat.
Not at all, since it can never supply required 200W RMS into 6 ohm as specified in your own demand.
24V supply?
Think 40W RMS ... period.
Not sure why you keep insisting on TPA3116 boards, which are grossly unsuitable.
A ChinaChlp CSxxxx can be placed under the heatsink with characteristics that differ from those of TI 3116. Conscientious sellers can indicate this.
Adequate decoupling applies to an end result, and for the money, I seriously doubt you’ll do better. Even if they are using 3118 chips…
Were the reviews from a site like science audio review or whatever that are power supply ignorant?
Maybe someday soon there will be another product available that provides more for less.
IMO some random TPA3250 would be a significant improvement over any TPA3116, the words "clear and crisp" are not the words I would choose to describe a TPA3116 amplifier.
Here is a TPA3250 including powersupply:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/283431830918
Cheaper one without PSU:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/185456859914
But as long as you are happy with what you have there is no reason to upgrade.
Plenty of good advice above.
The only way to get more power from 24VDC is using a DC/DC converter to raise the voltage (a solution implemented in many car amps).
The only way to get more power from 24VDC is using a DC/DC converter to raise the voltage (a solution implemented in many car amps).
He might try putting a Zobel network on the speakers to try and tame the impedance rise.
In this case, power will be consumed in the Zobel circuit (parallel connection). The power in the speaker coil will not change.
I can raise the voltage from 24V with a (high efficiency) step up converter, but will that work ?
When using a powerful battery and a DC-DC boost converter, you can use more powerful amplifiers (3255, TDA89xx,ICE Power).
Can be used to power a generator. I've seen street musicians do it.
Last edited:
Most TPA3255 boards have some sort of op amp already mounted.
Other than that it might be handy to have some sort of tone control unless you use DSP, but to answer your question directly: You do not need an additional pre amp, unless it brings some features to the table that you want to have.
Other than that it might be handy to have some sort of tone control unless you use DSP, but to answer your question directly: You do not need an additional pre amp, unless it brings some features to the table that you want to have.