If I only go 5mm deep I can don't care about where the fins are. Then the M4 threading will be a bit more complicated. But it is possible with care to make threads in "blind" holes.
Regarding sandpaper on glass to lap the heat spreaders. I wonder if this video is a good demonstration:
Regarding sandpaper on glass to lap the heat spreaders. I wonder if this video is a good demonstration:
making blind holes ..... first- if you need to ask, you're not prepared to make proper blindholes and blind taps in Alu
second - if you make proper through-holes, either tapped or no (so using screws and nuts) , you'll end with potential for much greater torque
second - if you make proper through-holes, either tapped or no (so using screws and nuts) , you'll end with potential for much greater torque
We usually make the holes 7mm deep and the threads 6,5mm deep in our heatsinks so I think you can go even a bit deeper if you want
For blind holes tapping I did not ask. I watched some YouTubes long time ago and with my Völkel 3 pcs hand tapping set it worked fine.
The Völkel hand tapping set I have HSS-G steel is specified for both though hole and blind hole.
https://voelkel.com/en/produkt/hand-tap-set-of-3-pieces-din-352-hss-g-m-1-m-100/
https://voelkel.com/en/produkt/hand-tap-set-of-3-pieces-din-352-hss-g-m-1-m-100/
Yes, the same CNC machine we use to mill our panels can also drill and tap heatsinks. The tool used is similar to the one the link in your previous post
It is pretty straightforward to convert a regular plug tap into a bottom tap with a little time on a bench grinder. Grind off the tapered end and add a slight taper to the bottom two threads. Now you have a bottom tap.
The bench grinder will work better with a high quality grinding wheel instead of the cheap grey ones they are usually sold with.
The bench grinder will work better with a high quality grinding wheel instead of the cheap grey ones they are usually sold with.
Yes, but these Völkel taps are pretty flat. Probably because they are made for the purpose:
No. 1 has most taper. I just take care that not too much cut off is trapped in the hole and back off a couple of times to clean the hole. A bit of oil for lubrication also works for me.
No. 1 has most taper. I just take care that not too much cut off is trapped in the hole and back off a couple of times to clean the hole. A bit of oil for lubrication also works for me.
To run all these three HQ-taps after each other represents the ultimate 3-step all analogue silky smooth HiFi metal tapping technique 🙂🎸
Yes, it also prevents that a tap breaks. At least I have never broken at tap......until now 🙂
It will also require some "clumsiness" to break a M4 tap in aluminium.
It will also require some "clumsiness" to break a M4 tap in aluminium.
The Völkel taps are certainly very nice. I wish i had a set when I was building my lottery VFET amp.
It was 25.000 DKK which is about 3400 EUR.
But these 2nd hand prices can often be negotiated a bit.
Then there is also the transport 🙂
It is still for sale. Made in DDR. And yes I think the 3N and 380V indicates 3 phases.
Today it is 400VAC and 230VAC. So more power. A "historical" machine.
But these 2nd hand prices can often be negotiated a bit.
Then there is also the transport 🙂
It is still for sale. Made in DDR. And yes I think the 3N and 380V indicates 3 phases.
Today it is 400VAC and 230VAC. So more power. A "historical" machine.
Very nice, and it will last a lifetime, but overkill for hobbyists I think. You could buy a Bridgeport series 1 for less. Even lower end CNC is around that budget in the U.K.
It is the plan to do the drilling freehand and just use a guide that arrived yesterday. The size of that is a bit less. Then my old AEG drill (which has just got new 3-party LI-ION batteries as the old Ni-Cd was "dead") can hopefully do the job 🙂 .....it has 2 gears so it can run slow with large torque which is nice.
That will work fine, I suggest that you use some cutting oil. To be safe, if you can make/set up some sort of stop to set depth drilled. You may find this (link) useful regarding taps. The ples you earlier pictured are called, Taper, Second and Plug. (Plug having the least taper) and are hand taps I would say as opposed to machine taps. They will push the swarf down into the hole, so clear it out when near the bottom.
https://www.brownesales.com/news/tapping-101-spiral-flute-vs-spiral-pointed-taps
https://www.brownesales.com/news/tapping-101-spiral-flute-vs-spiral-pointed-taps