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Muses Volume

By far the hardest component to solder is the Muses chip. FAR easier with the right tool (air)—that said, I've done it by hand with success 2 known times :cool:. Not sure your technique will be effective on that critter—but what I do is over solder all the pins with added flux—and then use wick to remove the bridges—just so—and suck out excess without complete removal. The issue with this is you can still have solder bridges under the chip if you overdo it. It's not ideal.... but possible. I love having excuses to get new gear. Haha. And it will really come in handy if you decide to build a DAC. There are also some SMD components that can only be soldered with air—or a heat bed. BTW—for each control I've made I've set them up with old Apple remotes—each one worked on the first programming attempt—yeah Meldano!.
 
I soldered mine with a Weller WS81 set to about 300°C with a sharp round tip. Result was 1 bridge which I resolved with some solder wick. Nor did I apply extra flux. I'm happy with the result.
What I took in mind was to make the solder pads for this a bit longer than really required for the chip, this to place my solder iron on.
 

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Hello,
I just noticed that when you connect the encoder with relative long wires (about 40cm) to the PCB, the circuit doesn’t react normal anymore. One had to rotate the encoder much more to change volume. As if not all the encoder pulses arrive at the controller. Anyone an idea to solve this?
 
Thanks Meldano,

I've done some trials, the RC solution only, according datasheet of encoder, is not solving the problem. An additional schmitt trigger (2 because of inverting) seems to solve my issue. It's currently playing to evaluate this change.
 

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Forget about post #745!!!
My ALPS encoder seems to be not working correctly anymore, in about 50% of the posititions the connections A en B stay in contact wiht the common pin C.
No need for addtional schmitt triggers.

The only thing I needed to do, to have good pulses when using longer cables is to lower the pull up resistors, currently I have 10k.
Meldano, can this lowering of the pull up have any negative impact on the controller? I certainly don't want to endanger the controller.
 

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Have you tested the setup without an external pull-up?
The controller use internal pull-ups.
In case of sleep mode, I switch the pull-ups depends on the actual rotary encoder signal.
The documented behavior only occurred with the first firmware version.

With the Alps encoder I never have problems with a 30cm cable.
 
Indeed, a new ALPS encoder solved all issues. I removed all added components (RC + pull ups + schmitt triggers) and all seems to function fine, yes, without pull up's.
I've lost a day of trying to solve issues created by a non good functioning encoder from which I was not aware of.

Thanks for the service Meldano!
 
Indeed, a new ALPS encoder solved all issues. I removed all added components (RC + pull ups + schmitt triggers) and all seems to function fine, yes, without pull up's.
I've lost a day of trying to solve issues created by a non good functioning encoder from which I was not aware of.

Thanks for the service Meldano!
Hi Bensen, could you share the Alps Encoder Model number. I am facing some issue with one of other boards.
 
Thank you Bensen.
I have had bought the PEC1 Bourn but some how that didn’t work so well compared to an old Alps one which I have.
Bourn would send a tick even with a slight twist between the two dents.

this what I had bought -
https://www.mouser.in/datasheet/2/54/pec16-245034.pdf

this is my experience. I will try Alps now. In a few days
 
Alternatives of BOM (Mouser)

Are these OK?

Mouser #: 667-ERA-6AEB202V <- 667-ERA-6ARB202V
Mouser #: 667-EEU-FR1V221 <- 667-EEU-FR1V221BJ
Mouser #: 625-DF02S-E3 <- 625-EDF1DS-E3/77
Mouser #: 583-SR160-B <- 637-SB160
Mouser #: 595-TPIC2810DG4 <- 595-TPIC2810D
Mouser #: 667-EEU-FR1V221 <- 667-EEU-FR1V221B
Mouser #: 647-UKL1A470KDDANATD <- 647-UFG1A470MDM

BTW, I cannot find an alternative of omron Relay ( Mouser #: 653-G6K-2P-DC4.5 )