An important part of this discussion is to define 'midrange'. Clearly, we don't want some notes to stand out or to be suppressed. But, the midrange of a cello or trombone is in a different frequency range than the midrange of a trumpet or alto saxophone.
I suppose that "midrange" could generically be expressed as about 200 Hz to about 2000 Hz, since that where the majjority of musical instrument notes are. Obviously, some instruments go lower, and some go higher.
But is that what you're referring to?
No distortion to 100dB ?? Are you saying that's difficult?
Seems easy enough...just takes a good CD/waveguide, and robust drivers all the way down......no?
my XO points are 250 and 2500. Yes I have a 27TAC/BG (1825?) tweeter and I have yet to select a woofer
I made quite a few speakers in the past when I used midrange much wider that normally is (say 250Hz to 2.5kHz). With nice Aurum Cantus I covered 150Hz to ~5kHz flat with not much effort (and good of axis). Provides much more coherent sound.
I do not like to cross at ~3kHz, being the most sensitive area for our ears, sometimes I do 4way with 150Hz, 900Hz, and 7kHz. Depending on the drivers, off course.
I do not like to cross at ~3kHz, being the most sensitive area for our ears, sometimes I do 4way with 150Hz, 900Hz, and 7kHz. Depending on the drivers, off course.
Thanks @wolf_teeth I will look that up Also @adason I will experiment with a higher XO frequency on my current speaker to see I like the change..
Why do you say that?? There are midranges out there with 101dB @ 1 watt rated @ 350 watts. It may not be zero but distortion won't be an issue. You will loose your hearing first if push them that hard.
Rob 🙂
First look at 84mm? Ellipticor dome midrange D8404/552000
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Ellipticor-A50-II.htm
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Ellipticor-A50-II.htm
Member
Joined 2003
Member
Joined 2003
I personally wouldn't, but somebody will. I can't find a datasheet or a place that claims to sell it. Perhaps its one of those secret menu items that you need to call a distributor directly to purchase.
Yep. Being doing low distortion HE pro driver builds for over 25y and had MEHs for 14 with distortion levels that make even good tube amps cry and some SS too.
Coming soon in a limited edition red version. It's just a bit more expensive; the price is your soul.
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So Ive got a huge amount of suggestions. Ive short listed them to 4: Wavecor WF120BD03 Seas H1304, HDS=P830991, Eclipse W6520
One key to believable, true to source midrange reproduction is an adequate sized bass mid driver that can move enough air at very low overall distortion levels during higher peak levels. This may either be some of the LF drivers range or a dedicated bass mid crossed way under 1k, allowing for a 4 inch cone driver or even a larger mid dome to carry the range of up to 5k, so that you can have minimal phase deviation between 1k to 10k with a good off axis behavior.
Just about every small cone mid (<4") I've heard crossed low enough to play aong with a 10" or larger LF driver runs out of steam very early with IM distortion going through the roof as it exceeds its linear cone travel trying to keep up in dynamics with the LF. The only way around it is to cross the mid higher closer to 800 - 1000 which makes the lower mids turn into mud and garbled junk with most LF drivers, including the issue with too much midrange getting pushed backwards into the cab itself, worsening the issue. This almost always means going with a 4 way setup or at least a dedicated sub with 3 ways.
Thats why I always find a decent larger 2 way to sound more believable, even with a not so optimal compression driver in the mix. The CD is another issue on its own with this sort of a speaker. I personally can't deal with a compression driver running down low to the point it gets shouty and harsh, even at moderate volume levels. I'd rather run the LF driver in breakup mode if its fairly linear than push the CD down that far.
Just about every small cone mid (<4") I've heard crossed low enough to play aong with a 10" or larger LF driver runs out of steam very early with IM distortion going through the roof as it exceeds its linear cone travel trying to keep up in dynamics with the LF. The only way around it is to cross the mid higher closer to 800 - 1000 which makes the lower mids turn into mud and garbled junk with most LF drivers, including the issue with too much midrange getting pushed backwards into the cab itself, worsening the issue. This almost always means going with a 4 way setup or at least a dedicated sub with 3 ways.
Thats why I always find a decent larger 2 way to sound more believable, even with a not so optimal compression driver in the mix. The CD is another issue on its own with this sort of a speaker. I personally can't deal with a compression driver running down low to the point it gets shouty and harsh, even at moderate volume levels. I'd rather run the LF driver in breakup mode if its fairly linear than push the CD down that far.
Taken down from Troels’ site:
bummer anyone take a screenshot or fill us in o the details?