Ya know, Harbor Freight has quite a decent selection of replacement wheels and casters.
I picked up some of those rubber tire casters for a project, they're fine.
They also have replacement tires for hand trucks, solid or inflatable types.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-12-in-rubber-swivel-caster-61650.html?_br_psugg_q=caster
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-semi-solid-wheel-98950.html?_br_psugg_q=wheel
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-solid-rubber-tire-42427.html
Custom-mold wheels? And digging further, different every market cycle?? That's why we have the 'LectroLux.
(Except ours is the newer model with wheels.) (Interesting how it worked without a wall-cord.)
https://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?29476
"...an early Hoover PurePower ...a U3142 from October 1997 (9740) ....As well as having a slight lean, the PurePower's wheels are horrendous. They wobble extremely from side to side, which means pushing them on any surface makes the wheel scratch along the sides of the base, making a horrible racket. Now, I was wondering if anybody knows how to replace the wheel axle on these PurePowers, and if replacements are sourceable.
The advice is to replace the "chassis". We occasionally replace the frame on a Ranger plow-truck, but that's radical (and depends on having a sadder Ranger with no frame damage as a donor).
I just repaired a Danelectro Nifty Fifty guitar amp for a local musician.
The potentiometers are constructed with phenolic wafers for the resistance elements, and the "Dirty/Sweet and Main volume control pots cracked internally.
I couldn't locate replacements, so I disassembled them & repaired the wafers with conductive epoxy.
Now it works like a champ & is back to performing!
The potentiometers are constructed with phenolic wafers for the resistance elements, and the "Dirty/Sweet and Main volume control pots cracked internally.
I couldn't locate replacements, so I disassembled them & repaired the wafers with conductive epoxy.
Now it works like a champ & is back to performing!
I ran out of pic16f753 microcontrollers and couldnt find any more so converted a project to pic16f1823.
Seemed to work ok.
However a pot on the pcb seemed to have go almost all the way around to trigger the pic.
So sold a couple with no problems.
On the next batch I was determined to get to the bottom of why pot needed turning further.
So went through pic code from scratch checking it all.
First bug I found was not making a2d input an analogue input.
Then found the a2d wasnt being set up quite right.
So what was happening was trigger level was set to about 2 volts due to pic input digital pin threshold.
Hence the different trigger point.
All's well that ends well.
Not sure if it was good or bad luck that it still worked with the errors.
If it had failed to work I would have dug deeper.
Seemed to work ok.
However a pot on the pcb seemed to have go almost all the way around to trigger the pic.
So sold a couple with no problems.
On the next batch I was determined to get to the bottom of why pot needed turning further.
So went through pic code from scratch checking it all.
First bug I found was not making a2d input an analogue input.
Then found the a2d wasnt being set up quite right.
So what was happening was trigger level was set to about 2 volts due to pic input digital pin threshold.
Hence the different trigger point.
All's well that ends well.
Not sure if it was good or bad luck that it still worked with the errors.
If it had failed to work I would have dug deeper.
You mean that AES doesn't have the replacments that were required?
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/potentiometers_0
Actually I didn't know about them!
Online searches turned up nothing; I tried similar looking parts but they didn't quite work.
I'll have to browse through their offerings!
Clamp meter, the kind used for AC current.
(Also voltage and resistance).
Sometimes described as clamp-on digital multimeter.
Readings not settling at zero.
Changed battery, nothing.
Opened, WD40 on two tiny presets, back to normal.
Made in Taiwan, have had it more than 23 years I think.
I paid 2000 then, cheapo Chinese are 300 now, this quality is about 4000 now here (Rupees...100 buys you a UK Pound, approximately.)
(Also voltage and resistance).
Sometimes described as clamp-on digital multimeter.
Readings not settling at zero.
Changed battery, nothing.
Opened, WD40 on two tiny presets, back to normal.
Made in Taiwan, have had it more than 23 years I think.
I paid 2000 then, cheapo Chinese are 300 now, this quality is about 4000 now here (Rupees...100 buys you a UK Pound, approximately.)
Last edited:
Motor Kawasaki FA-130d, piston rings replacement.
Luxman dz-112, the problem was a plastic support broken.
Luxman dz-112, the problem was a plastic support broken.
Buy new castor wheels, epoxy does not stick to most plastics unless they are compatible.
A 1 to 2 mm metal sheet, fixed using screws, is a better and stronger repair.
A 1 to 2 mm metal sheet, fixed using screws, is a better and stronger repair.
The remote for my much used Sony HXD-RDR870 recorder (Digital TV recorder) and not for the first time either 🙁 It suffers from the flexible keypad 'sweating' and apparently this is caused by the plasticiser used in manufacture. So hot soapy water (detergent) and its like new again.... 'till the next time.
Yes, Till The Next Time......!
I've had numerous remotes and even cordless phones bleed like that.
Cleaned them, got maybe another year or two, maybe three out of them.
I used alcohol though.
However, the silicone used in silicone windshield wiper blades is useful when it "bleeds".
The microscopic coating that it leaves on the windshield makes raindrops bead up and slide right off, and the blades last for years, plus they don't "freeze up" or squeak, or get hard in winter.
Indeed. When it was the day job we used to get half a dozen remotes a week in for repair (sometimes more) and I do wonder how many customers we've wrongly accused in the past of having spilled something in the R/C. Of course many were spillage but not all would have been.
I used to use Rain-X and other similar products when I did a motorway commute and it was amazing to be able to turn the wipers off at 70mph in torrential rain and have a view through a perfectly clear screen. Had to be seen to be believed.
I checked AES, and they do not have exact replacements. The Danelectro pots are 12mm (~1/2" dia.) with side pins & flatted shafts.
The smallest ones I saw on AES were 16mm.
That really depends on what it is though... If there's no moving parts, it should last for a very long time. 😛
Like I doubt my dishes will break themselves, and the cutlery I bought shouldn't rust etc.
I find some things made now actually work better and last longer than some older stuff from the 1980's, too. My microwave is 10 years old but works like new even though it's inverter and so has in theory many more points of failure, and certainly works better than the microwave it replaced made in the late 90's.
That said, I have a friend (also named Matt - Go figure) who swears by old loud Maytag appliances. He would probably spend more to repair his 1980's Maytag than to buy a new machine, because "all the new ones are crap"...
This is based on the fact it takes 90 minutes for a cycles now instead of 25. Who cares the new one is 40db quieter and uses 90% less water? LOL
For me, "All the new ones are crap" is BS. It really means "I'm too cheap to buy a good one, and all the cheap ones are crap". Of course sometimes it's genuinely a matter of money. You can't spend what you don't have.
Boot economics is real.
"The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money. Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in Ankh-Morpork on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles. But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while a poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet. This was the Captain Samuel Vimes "Boots" theory of socioeconomic unfairness."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boots_theory
Like I doubt my dishes will break themselves, and the cutlery I bought shouldn't rust etc.
I find some things made now actually work better and last longer than some older stuff from the 1980's, too. My microwave is 10 years old but works like new even though it's inverter and so has in theory many more points of failure, and certainly works better than the microwave it replaced made in the late 90's.
That said, I have a friend (also named Matt - Go figure) who swears by old loud Maytag appliances. He would probably spend more to repair his 1980's Maytag than to buy a new machine, because "all the new ones are crap"...
This is based on the fact it takes 90 minutes for a cycles now instead of 25. Who cares the new one is 40db quieter and uses 90% less water? LOL
For me, "All the new ones are crap" is BS. It really means "I'm too cheap to buy a good one, and all the cheap ones are crap". Of course sometimes it's genuinely a matter of money. You can't spend what you don't have.
Boot economics is real.
"The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money. Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in Ankh-Morpork on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles. But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while a poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet. This was the Captain Samuel Vimes "Boots" theory of socioeconomic unfairness."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boots_theory
My washer is ten years old and it broke right after the warranty expired. Parts were cheap but I was surprised at how complex the assembly was. It was kind of like disassembling an automatic transmission. The motor is servo controlled and speeds up and slows down during the cycle in a way that puts less strain on the moving parts; and it's quiet.
It's nothing like my mother's old washing machine. It was as simple and easy to fix as a machine could be. The only things that broke on it in 40 years were a couple belts and the timer.
It's nothing like my mother's old washing machine. It was as simple and easy to fix as a machine could be. The only things that broke on it in 40 years were a couple belts and the timer.