My bad, I forgot to add the links. The parts I am using are these:
Amp: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003162574427.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802ZZKOex
Speaker protection: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001463719973.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802ZZKOex
PSU 1x12V8A and 1x36V7A: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000094353564.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802ZZKOex
Case: I am reusing an old Sony amp case from 1980, which has an added IEC (computer 3 pin) connector for VAC
I will also add a DIY filter between PSU and AMP, which will include common mode choke, 3 electrolytics and 1 film cap.
Would I rather not connect extra speaker protection, to be "safe" and "just in case" if connected to a more expensive speakers for testing? Would I risk taking away a lot of sound quality by adding this extra part in the connection?
OK, got it )
Forget those PSU, I own it and they are cheap and perform bad.
The Module is a Shui Yuan, works great for the price OK )
No need speakers protection, see my review about the Shui Yuan module )
For the OP amps : get some OPA1692 or OpA2210 DIP8
To help you :
Here mine with the same module and a LLC 36V / 400W PSU /OPA1692 and Nichicon Power caps (update)
Forget those PSU, I own it and they are cheap and perform bad.
The Module is a Shui Yuan, works great for the price OK )
No need speakers protection, see my review about the Shui Yuan module )
For the OP amps : get some OPA1692 or OpA2210 DIP8
To help you :
Here mine with the same module and a LLC 36V / 400W PSU /OPA1692 and Nichicon Power caps (update)
Oh wow! That's a great and neat looking amp! Really great utilization of space also! I will drop the speaker protection module then, and wire it without using it. Will use the PSU I linked for now, and upgrade afterwards if I like the sound. New caps and opamps are ordered, I am waiting for them to arrive.OK, got it )
Forget those PSU, I own it and they are cheap and perform bad.
The Module is a Shui Yuan, works great for the price OK )
No need speakers protection, see my review about the Shui Yuan module )
For the OP amps : get some OPA1692 or OpA2210 DIP8
To help you :
Here mine with the same module and a LLC 36V / 400W PSU /OPA1692 and Nichicon Power caps (update)
I see that you have not used VAC earth (at least from the picture), and just have "COLD" and "HOT" only. If I understand it correctly, it is enough to provide those two, and leave the chassis grounding for the amp through the mounting points GND, right?
If I were you, I wouldn't skip the PSU....
In this amp, I am using a 220V cable without earth connection IEC C7 type (it is still a Class 2 device) But it is better to ground it to the case )
Alright! I need to order proper PSU!
Okay, if grounding to the case is better would this be correct to do:
- connect earth 115VAC to the case
- TPA3255 mounted to the case using brass standoff which provides 24VDC GND to it through mounting points
Wouldn't I be mixing VAC earth and VDC gnd from the amp, and actually making short between the two? Which could result in damaging the parts or even making fire? Can't seem to find an answer on that.
Mission733, I would not connect amp to chassi since it would create a ground loop. Amp ground is connected to VAC ground trough - wire to psu already. I would just ground the psu and chassi to earth trough 1 path.
I am slightly confused. So I need to isolate amp from chassis, so it has 0 connection to it? And then run straight wire from IEC connector ground to chassis?
Attention: Speaker protection for Class D amplifiers is different from Class AB - the (-) wires on both channels must not be shorted.
Hi everyone! First post here, but I’m active on Reddit and Audiokarma. I assembled this amp with a 3e TPA3255 board and a Meanwelll lrs-350-48 power supply. So far it sound great, but I’m getting 2 quick popping noises on power up. It’s not crazy loud, but enough to startle my dogs. Just wondering if this is normal or not. Thanks!
Attachments
I’ve noticed that on startup when the amp pops, it also shows a fault for a second. Any thoughts? I’ve tried lowering the voltage on the power supply, but it did not make a difference, it’s currently around 49 volts.
This one is far away the best @ the moment:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/topping-pa5-tpa325x-is-a-modification-worth-it.380233/
Should not Pop... this is a 3E Audio module as I we can see.
Give a try @ 36 / 38V very max and keep us posted...
topping pa5 is too expensive for what it offers.
From the reviews it seems to be the best on the market. Will it be worth the investment?
tpa 3255 boards from alixpresse or ebay. what is the best?
From the reviews it seems to be the best on the market. Will it be worth the investment?
tpa 3255 boards from alixpresse or ebay. what is the best?
I do not share this opinion, it is necessary to relativize: the Benchmark AHB2 is displayed on ASR as being the best amp ever tested... ($3500 amplifier) The PA5, is just behind.. ($300 amplifier)
And having most of the TPA3255 on the market (high-end model included), I can tell you that the PA5 is below the lot and this : with its stock brick PSU )
Factually :
Top end TPA3255 by JLESTER (more expansive than the PA5 In its final version....)
JLESTER TPA3255 (CONNEX LLC 300W PSU)
3E AUDIO TPA3255 Finished amp :
JLESTER TPA3255 (CONNEX LLC 300W PSU)
3E AUDIO TPA3255 Finished amp :
OK thanks . I'm convinced.
but BENCHMARK AHB2 belongs to another category (championship league)
but BENCHMARK AHB2 belongs to another category (championship league)
Sure ) championship league in its Class AB category )
PA5 is now the championship league in its Class D category )
Could help you all : (Amplifier SINAD list ASR)
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ZlTOYxmPs938gqHjtDABkWS-MApu7uJjzIGnJ2Elm6Y/edit#gid=0
41 is the lowest I could go and it popped and the fault light stayed on, if I increase voltage it comes on as it pops and turns off. Confirming that the center positive and ground on the board go to V+ and v- on the power supply or am I wrong?