I would put them in small sealed boxes and use Linkwitz Transform to reach 30Hz (Q=0.5). This will work like a dream when listening close (bass SPL if of course limited). We have a prototype of a tiny box with two PRs and a T25B in the lab - jaws are dropping when people hear it. sounds like a floorstander
https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/march_audio_sointuva/
- The enclosure is built like a tank. Tons of fill material and what appears to be a very thick layer of (some sort of) constrained layer damping.
- These sound awesome.
- While the sensitivity measured at a low 82.4dB, the implementation of some of the best drivers out there make this a speaker with super output capability. And with an F3 = 43Hz, you might not need a subwoofer if you don’t necessarily need a lot of output below 40Hz. The compression and distortion data show this speaker maintains its composure very well even at high(er) volume.
- The on-axis response shows a treble lift. However, this combined with a narrowing radiation in the treble result in a more linear estimated in-room response (EIR) with what I would consider a mild treble lift overall. I sometimes find a treble lift in the EIR to equate to a “bright” sound but this is more subdued and even throughout which (I believe) is what caused it to not stand out to me in a negative way.
- Interestingly, it looks like the best vertical positioning for this speaker might actually be above the tweeter axis by about 5°. This would also bring the treble boost in the EIR down a tad.
- Objectively speaking, I believe (recalling from memory) this is the best passive speaker I have measured to date. It rivals linearity and directivity on par with some of the best speakers I have seen.
I have no idea on how to use the software to make box etc . I am relying on the experts in this group
Lars PR I won't wish to add to my cost. I can max try the SB racetrack PR since that's cost effective for me for this requirement only. I also have a 6.5 Purifi but I want a small and slim as much for my desktop that's why I am trying to hunt with 4" [irifi. I dont know how come no one is making any speakers in this group on a 4"
There are som alignments posted for the PTT4.0 here https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...-audio-ptt4.0x08-nfc-01-4.5-mid-woofer-8-ohm/
I'm curious. I just got a hold of 4 x PTT6,5 W04 01B. How much of a difference is there to the "X" version?
Most of what I can read, there is mainly +/-4 extra linear stroke on the "X" version compared to my "W" . But it seems that they both have the same mechanical stroke. When crossed to subs around 60Hz - I think this will not be a problem
Converging similarly to your proto setup with a 6.5 for my first diy adventure, should I run the T25B as is or push it to a WG ?
Planning to go active
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Saw a video somewhere that shows how to remove the T25 grill, don't remember if it was hificompass or augerpro. Copper foil wrapping and guarding the grill, blower @ 200C (or 400C?) for a couple of mins on the copper foil, remove the grill gently with pincers
I'm worried I'd goof this up
I'm worried I'd goof this up
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I tried those too..... works bad. Use 3D printed waveguides from Augerpro instead... they measure and work much better:
https://www.somasonus.net/bliesma-t25b
I don't know about the grill... since I use SB 26ADC for mine.
REMOVING THE GRILL IS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND NOT ENDORSED BY THE MANUFACTURER !!
This said, here is the procedure I use for the T25B and T34B:
To soften the glue, you can put the driver for a few minutes in an oven at no more than 60-70°C MAX. Please check the real temp in the oven with an adequate thermometer first !
After that,, you can remove the grill with a tweezer . You will have to lift slightly at 3 or 4 points around the grill. Please don't forget that you are working in a strong magnetic environment and so retain the metallic grill to move to the Be dome...
JC
This said, here is the procedure I use for the T25B and T34B:
To soften the glue, you can put the driver for a few minutes in an oven at no more than 60-70°C MAX. Please check the real temp in the oven with an adequate thermometer first !
After that,, you can remove the grill with a tweezer . You will have to lift slightly at 3 or 4 points around the grill. Please don't forget that you are working in a strong magnetic environment and so retain the metallic grill to move to the Be dome...
JC
Well, that's unfortunate. I'd happily use the Augerpro waveguide if he made a round one. The grill won't fit on an oval one. I suppose I could fabricate a grill somehow. But, I've had too many poked domes to go without some sort of grill.
Oh. My experience might be worse than others. But I would say - if you prefer some kind of grill... then consider the Seas DXT, which I use right now. It's really good and I found little to complain about in direct comparison to BE and other tweeters. In my opinion, the midrange, filter and baffle construction, is much more important
Was thinking of tinkering with augerpro's design and add a grill to his model before 3D printing. As was suggested in the past, paste two "toothpicks" bars into the 3D design and make sure there's minimal reflection back into the dome will get minimal loss. IMHO original grill on a waveguide will result in excessive acoustical loss and is less elegant visually.
I tried to source DXT from my supplier in order to try out Directiva R1, no luck so I planned to upgrade (is it really and upgrade?) to available T25B
I tried to source DXT from my supplier in order to try out Directiva R1, no luck so I planned to upgrade (is it really and upgrade?) to available T25B
Try ebay or something .. It should be possible to get a set of DXT 👍 They are also around 1/5 of the price of BE tweeters 😀
Thanks @digitalthor
A pair of T25B goes for 490$, a pair of (H1499-06) DXTs is 164$. Shipping for both is ~30$. Do you still believe that the DXT is holding on vs the T25B?
As I'm planning for my first DIY I should (should I?) be conservative and reset expectations. Go the DXT way, correlate my results with the ASR folks and from that point on increase the level of complexity with a roadmap to T25B, WG, rework cabinet from single SB PR to dual Purifi PR mounted on the side panels, FA123 plate
A pair of T25B goes for 490$, a pair of (H1499-06) DXTs is 164$. Shipping for both is ~30$. Do you still believe that the DXT is holding on vs the T25B?
As I'm planning for my first DIY I should (should I?) be conservative and reset expectations. Go the DXT way, correlate my results with the ASR folks and from that point on increase the level of complexity with a roadmap to T25B, WG, rework cabinet from single SB PR to dual Purifi PR mounted on the side panels, FA123 plate