Public Apology to Andy
.... for so freely used term "idiot"
well, Court Jesters and Village Idiots are my fave characters, so that's probably reason why that term is not having so negative implications for me
not excuse, just stating the fact
Public apology to
.... for so freely used term "idiot"
well, Court Jesters and Village Idiots are my fave characters, so that's probably reason why that term is not having so negative implications for me
not excuse, just stating the fact
VIkings are dumbidiots, still thinking about that**
'Talians are artists, 'nuff of them selling that sort of Drek to Vikings and rest of Population
Peppe replied you adequately
btw. 'Talians had Marco Pantani, too ; King of the Mountain
go figure
still remember - was watching both Giro and Tour that year , when he won both
he drove it with Pure Will
**most recent confirmation being - my Polish Guy having Babelfish Aleph XJ , decided to waste some greens od Adiophoolfuses
his own Verdict - he wasted those greens
if in doubt - use nails ..... or skip fuses all-together
invest money on proper insurance
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Public apology to
Attachments
Hi, can I get some help with the PSU for this build? I FINALLY started getting parts out of bags and working on the PSU board. I am following the build guide here (meaning I am using the off-board rectifiers). I ended up with (8) 35V 22,000uF caps and have the 400VA 18V Antek transformer.
For the 8 filter resistors (R1-R8), have the 0.47 ohm 3 watt ones I see for all these builds. No issue (unless there is an issue based on the parts I mention above!)
For the 2 bleed resistors (R9-R10), on the first page of this thread I see the diagram and 6L6 reference 2.2Kohm (2,200), however I ended up with 22kohm (22,000) resistors based on a saved cart I used. To be blunt, should I put these aside and buy 2.2Kohm resistors?
For the 2 LED resistors (R20-R21), using 10Kohm and this LED (I have a red/green set, but same electronic values): TLHR5400 Vishay Semiconductors | Mouser - are these resistors the appropriate value for the board voltage and LEDs I have? I have played around with some calculators but not 100% sure.
Thanks!
buy 2K2 for bleeders
for LEDs, everything from 10K-22K will work properly
Collecting parts for the build… Well, time for noob questions deluxe🙂
What is the green and yellow connected to inside the transformer? To some shielding or to the core? Center tap???
We have got 230V here in Sweden.
Should i connect green/yellow to the safety ground in the Aleph chassie?
yeah, that's so called "static shield"; connect it to same screw on chassis, where safety GND lead from IEC is connected
Thanks Zen Mod...I will get the 2.2K and put the wrong ones aside, and will stick with 10K for the LEDs.
For AC line fuses, I use the ceramic sand filled variety. I’m not worried about audio performance at the input to the power transformer. Sand filled fuses are intended to prevent the fusible element from reconnecting after being open by an over-corrupt condition.
Fuses in supply rails are a different matter, as they are now part of the drive current path for the amplifier. I have not experimented with these, as I prefer to not use fuses here to begin with.
Fuses in supply rails are a different matter, as they are now part of the drive current path for the amplifier. I have not experimented with these, as I prefer to not use fuses here to begin with.
I typically do fuse the B+ rail in my tube amplifiers, and I see that the small fuses (like 50 mA or 100 mA) do indeed have a few Ohms of resistance. In line with my thinking of low-impedance PSUs, I try to have the fuse before the last buffer capacitors.
Regards, Claas
Regards, Claas
What is the green and yellow connected to inside the transformer? To some shielding?
Should i connect green/yellow to the safety ground in the Aleph chassie?
Answers 🙂
Shielding- Yes
To safety ground- Yes
Edit: Thanks Zen Mod 🙂
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.... for so freely used term "idiot"
well, Court Jesters and Village Idiots are my fave characters, so that's probably reason why that term is not having so negative implications for me
not excuse, just stating the fact
Well if that is the Mighty reference of idiocy, I am sorry for being a sourpuss. Please remark my moronic state more often


To chime in on the 'cleaner' power side of things. I use a Monster Power HTS1600 (Isolation filter and surge) only because you can find them for next to nothing on the likes of Craig's list and such. Not sure if it really helps, but at the very least its interesting to watch the line voltage sag change throughout the day while the tunage plays.
If you hunt around, eventually you'll catch someone cleaning out a house and dump it for $15 near you. 🙂 I wouldn't pay more than an arbitrary 45 buckazoids.
Monster Power Surge Protector | Stereo Systems & Home Theatre | Ottawa | Kijiji
https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=HTS1600&_sop=12
++ POWER SURGE OUTLET ++ - electronics - by owner - sale
If you hunt around, eventually you'll catch someone cleaning out a house and dump it for $15 near you. 🙂 I wouldn't pay more than an arbitrary 45 buckazoids.
Monster Power Surge Protector | Stereo Systems & Home Theatre | Ottawa | Kijiji
https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=HTS1600&_sop=12
++ POWER SURGE OUTLET ++ - electronics - by owner - sale
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Huge thanks to Octopus Technicus! That diagram awesome! Totally clears up my plan to redo my build to dual mono.
Can the J2 be bridged to mono? Gets cold up here in the winter.
Can the J2 be bridged to mono? Gets cold up here in the winter.
Can the J2 be bridged to mono? Gets cold up here in the winter.
I read a bit into it and its not straightforward. I think I'll just finish up the mono build and consider sensitivity more on my next speaker purchase or build.
pretty much any non- already-bridged amp can be bridged
and even some already bridged amps can be bridged again ( having 2 of same)
so, yes - Aleph J can be bridged, and worth mentioning - these made as already properly intrinsically bridged Alephs are known under name Aleph X
there were even projects on forum done in past - to make Aleph X from two channels of Aleph J
but - Aleph is tricky - not being able to leave Class A - one must not forget that in bridged arrangement current in two halves is the same/one , while each half is seeing half of load , so working twice hard
with that, you must increase Iq, stepping in Mucho Heat territory
still at first half of morning coffee, I know I could write it in less words ..........
and even some already bridged amps can be bridged again ( having 2 of same)
so, yes - Aleph J can be bridged, and worth mentioning - these made as already properly intrinsically bridged Alephs are known under name Aleph X
there were even projects on forum done in past - to make Aleph X from two channels of Aleph J
but - Aleph is tricky - not being able to leave Class A - one must not forget that in bridged arrangement current in two halves is the same/one , while each half is seeing half of load , so working twice hard
with that, you must increase Iq, stepping in Mucho Heat territory
still at first half of morning coffee, I know I could write it in less words ..........

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Who cares about length, it is the girth of the words that count
golden explanation, as usual 🙂

j175
It was probably beaten to death, but what about j175 for input stage?
It is not biased by Idss, so i am not worried about it.
Did some spicing in ltspice, but pretty sure j175 model must be broken, it gives too low H2 for paralleled 175's..
I know this is not discovery of warm water or anything, and worse than Toshiba parts for sure, but how much worse can it really be for a junkbox build? Maybe j176 or 177 would be better, but 175 is what i have on hand..
Why is p-channel jfet world so dead in 2021? Born too late to explore the world, too early to explore the stars, but just the right time to watch pch jfets dissapear.
Put the images and sim file in attachments
Cheers
It was probably beaten to death, but what about j175 for input stage?
It is not biased by Idss, so i am not worried about it.
Did some spicing in ltspice, but pretty sure j175 model must be broken, it gives too low H2 for paralleled 175's..
I know this is not discovery of warm water or anything, and worse than Toshiba parts for sure, but how much worse can it really be for a junkbox build? Maybe j176 or 177 would be better, but 175 is what i have on hand..
Why is p-channel jfet world so dead in 2021? Born too late to explore the world, too early to explore the stars, but just the right time to watch pch jfets dissapear.
Put the images and sim file in attachments
Cheers
Attachments
J105 is a pretty crappy amplification transistor, and a wonderfully excellent analog switch.
Here's an Ids versus Vds plot of data I measured from a J105 using a curve tracer. Bleah.
Forum thread: Measured data on the J105 Nchannel JFET
Here's an Ids versus Vds plot of data I measured from a J105 using a curve tracer. Bleah.
Forum thread: Measured data on the J105 Nchannel JFET
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