I'm fairly sure it was a brain fart, and completely my doing.
I put items in basket and checked out, then was interrupted and it appeared I had not proceeded to check out - no conf email.
So I checked the basket and checked out the following day.
Next working day I have two identical orders arrived!
I put items in basket and checked out, then was interrupted and it appeared I had not proceeded to check out - no conf email.
So I checked the basket and checked out the following day.
Next working day I have two identical orders arrived!
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Just snagged another 500 pieces of NOS National PN4303s. I'm thinking of reviving my jfet SRPP RIAA thread, and have a new PCB in the works.
Complete exhaust system for 2002 Accord. In recent years every joint has been repair-welded and today it all came apart at once. Puny 2.2l motor is louder than my old V-8 T-bird. This is not the year to get another car. I can't complain because I only spent $120 over 20 years. A ton better than the T-Burd which ate a set of pipes every 19 months.
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Joined 2009
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Horns, baby
I bought an over-priced pair of original Altec 511B horns with 808-8A drivers attached to them. They should arrive in about a month.
I bought an over-priced pair of original Altec 511B horns with 808-8A drivers attached to them. They should arrive in about a month.
Attachments
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Just in case, here is the driver specs with both pages: https://greatplainsaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/807a_808a-01.pdf
Grabbing it by the horns, huh?
Grabbing it by the horns, huh?
A little duct seal putty on the lips helps with the ringing. Are you allowed to tell us what you paid? PM if you'd rather.
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Joined 2009
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I paid Cdn1,500, which I reckon is 30% too high, but there's a story here. The seller obtained these horns & drivers from who knows where about 20yrs ago and hadn't done much with them since. The drivers measure at about 6 Ohm using a DMM which says they perhaps haven't been so badly abused as to blow them up.
A close friend of mine is gifting me a pair DIY built Khorns which had huge sentimental value to them and they come without drivers but they do come with an obligation to get them back into original working condition. The boxes are solid (not plywood mind) and about 40yrs old, they were well looked after. Somebody was given access to rob these boxes of their drivers, which they promptly did. The original builders notes show they used 511B horns with 806 drivers (the 808's I bought are larger magnet versions which need new diaphragms to bring the treble up for home audio use standards). So my mission was to find some replacement drivers and horns and show my commitment to the job! It turns out they aren't so easy to find although they do come up often enough if you are patient. I saw these for sale and pulled the trigger - I'm not a patient man and I don't want to futz around with this project. I saw a package deal of horns and drivers all in one go which seemed a good idea at the time. Of course, given that I'm a newby at this khorn game and not wanting to make this a crusade there are going to be times when I will just spend to get it done.
A close friend of mine is gifting me a pair DIY built Khorns which had huge sentimental value to them and they come without drivers but they do come with an obligation to get them back into original working condition. The boxes are solid (not plywood mind) and about 40yrs old, they were well looked after. Somebody was given access to rob these boxes of their drivers, which they promptly did. The original builders notes show they used 511B horns with 806 drivers (the 808's I bought are larger magnet versions which need new diaphragms to bring the treble up for home audio use standards). So my mission was to find some replacement drivers and horns and show my commitment to the job! It turns out they aren't so easy to find although they do come up often enough if you are patient. I saw these for sale and pulled the trigger - I'm not a patient man and I don't want to futz around with this project. I saw a package deal of horns and drivers all in one go which seemed a good idea at the time. Of course, given that I'm a newby at this khorn game and not wanting to make this a crusade there are going to be times when I will just spend to get it done.
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Home built K-horns is a rather ambitious undertaking. Yes, they deserve some TLC to bring them back to life. Have you picked out a woofer yet? Are you planning to run them active?
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Yup, these don't look like boxes I would have wanted to build in a couple of afternoons !
Woofer - I've read that the original design was based on something called a 'K33' and that the newly manufactured option is made by Eminence and sold through Bob Crites in the US. Past that I've no clue.
The boxes have what look like the remains of 1st order XO parts still installed, a big oil capacitor for the highs and an air core inductor for the woofer. Hence, the nearest finish like looks passive to me. The original builder had moved active at some point, as there is a drawing showing a rectangle labelled 'filter' between preamp and two power amps but no details of this filter. I also have a small prototype board containing some small ferrite inductors that is suspected of being relevant.
Woofer - I've read that the original design was based on something called a 'K33' and that the newly manufactured option is made by Eminence and sold through Bob Crites in the US. Past that I've no clue.
The boxes have what look like the remains of 1st order XO parts still installed, a big oil capacitor for the highs and an air core inductor for the woofer. Hence, the nearest finish like looks passive to me. The original builder had moved active at some point, as there is a drawing showing a rectangle labelled 'filter' between preamp and two power amps but no details of this filter. I also have a small prototype board containing some small ferrite inductors that is suspected of being relevant.
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Today I bought some flashing, asphalt goo to fix a leak in my roof. Cut rate roofers had already failed to put down the first course of shingles correctly, caught that one when it was new, but when they fixed it they used long staples that pierced the eaves everywhere.
After finally trimming off every staple and carefully painting this summer, a ridge vent end showed itself to be leaky since it hadn’t had the right amount of love when it was installed.
I covered some flashing with a spare asphalt shingle after putting a tuck into it, formed to fit the shape of the roof.
After finally trimming off every staple and carefully painting this summer, a ridge vent end showed itself to be leaky since it hadn’t had the right amount of love when it was installed.
I covered some flashing with a spare asphalt shingle after putting a tuck into it, formed to fit the shape of the roof.
Chain ring, chain and bottom bracket for a fixed gear, shoe cleats and another pair of bike tires to shuffle existing tires downstream to two more bikes. Just a bit looking forward to the winter.
Jeez thanks for reminding me. I'll need new tires for next season. Guess I'll have to get them online - I really do try to support the local shops, but no one stocks the original style gumwalls for my old Varsity around here anymore, and I just can't get used to the look of black sidewalls on that bike... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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I should've mentioned that total paid includes shipping, taxes- import duties. And I don't have a freekin clue what I'm doing.
T/S parameters for the K33E:
Znom = 4 ohms
Re(vc) = 3.5 ohms
L = 1 mH @ 1kHz
R = 1.03 ohm @ 1KHz
Fs = 27Hz
Sd = 0.0890 sq. m (13.5" diameter)
Xmax = 6.67 mm
Vas = 343 liters
Qts = 0.633
Qes = 0.684
Qms = 8.5
BL = 9.8 T*m
Mms = 106 grams
Cms = 305 microns/Newton
Pmax = 150 Watts
The putty is a ribbon on the outside of the lips, right near the edge. Think of something about the thickness of a pensil, pressed into place so it is somewhat flattened and stuck. If you don't have duct seal, use rope caulk. Three strips, forming a triangle and then pressed into place should be good.
Znom = 4 ohms
Re(vc) = 3.5 ohms
L = 1 mH @ 1kHz
R = 1.03 ohm @ 1KHz
Fs = 27Hz
Sd = 0.0890 sq. m (13.5" diameter)
Xmax = 6.67 mm
Vas = 343 liters
Qts = 0.633
Qes = 0.684
Qms = 8.5
BL = 9.8 T*m
Mms = 106 grams
Cms = 305 microns/Newton
Pmax = 150 Watts
The putty is a ribbon on the outside of the lips, right near the edge. Think of something about the thickness of a pensil, pressed into place so it is somewhat flattened and stuck. If you don't have duct seal, use rope caulk. Three strips, forming a triangle and then pressed into place should be good.
Sad that there are still idiots performing one of the most important things on any building. You're not alone. How many times have I arrived on site only to tell the owner that there's nothing you can do except a full tear off and reroof. I am glad you are able to fix yours for the time being anyway.
Cheers.
It seems there are more parameters floating around.
This is the part # from Eminence, the makers of the speaker.
SPEC 15162
PART # K-33
RE OHMS 3.39
FS HZ 34.46
LE MH .96
MMS GMS 78.59
QM 7.39
CMS mm/N .2714
QE .410 RMS
NS/M 2.3037
QT .390
VAS LTRS 301.66
XMAX MM 8.20
SD SCM 889.59
BL TM 11.88
EBP 84.4
EFF % 2.91
SPL dB 96.6
Wattage 150rms
This is the part # from Eminence, the makers of the speaker.
SPEC 15162
PART # K-33
RE OHMS 3.39
FS HZ 34.46
LE MH .96
MMS GMS 78.59
QM 7.39
CMS mm/N .2714
QE .410 RMS
NS/M 2.3037
QT .390
VAS LTRS 301.66
XMAX MM 8.20
SD SCM 889.59
BL TM 11.88
EBP 84.4
EFF % 2.91
SPL dB 96.6
Wattage 150rms
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Joined 2009
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