Haven't "sealed" everything down yet but the layout works and sounds great, terminals and rear panel all sorted. Love the box. Again, external brick so I can roll supplies (24v/2a sounds best so far). Will probably shorten and clean up wires on final fastening but no hums, hisses, or pops so if it ain't broke...
Attachments
A couple of questions, as I have similar speakers. Are they 3" or 4"?, 4 or 8 Ohm?
Can you confirm your filter values? 1K resistor and a 10 microfarad capacitor?
They are 4 ohm, amp plays much better with 4 IMHO. Speakers including the rubber surrounds are 4" wide, can't recall what they were listed at. An old Alibaba purchase.
Filter values are 1 Ohm resistor and 10 microFarad (uF) cap. I drew a crumby pic for you.
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Thank you for your reply.
The speakers look the same as mine, Sonderlink, bought from AliExpress. I've used a number of them, 4" & 3", to convert old radios with BT and amps, but up till now have been able to build in ported boxes to great effect.
In my latest build, however, I can't build in ported boxes, so the speakers sound a bit bright as you stated.
I'll try a couple of LP filters using the info you've supplied to see how it changes the sound.
Thanks again.
The speakers look the same as mine, Sonderlink, bought from AliExpress. I've used a number of them, 4" & 3", to convert old radios with BT and amps, but up till now have been able to build in ported boxes to great effect.
In my latest build, however, I can't build in ported boxes, so the speakers sound a bit bright as you stated.
I'll try a couple of LP filters using the info you've supplied to see how it changes the sound.
Thanks again.
Hi amigos,
Let me introduce my new little toy )
Dual Mono TPA3221 Amp. Really tiny but impressive : 134x59x90mm
Really well made, PCB exudes quality.
Spec :
- OPA1652
- Panasonic FC Power caps
- Anti Pop function / ON OFF
- WIMA caps
- Elna Audio Grade buffer caps
- Evox Film caps
- TPA3221 main chip
- PSU 15V / 7A
At first listening, amplifier is dead silent and sound awesome !
Will give a long listening test later vs Hypex vs Purifi.
Videos :
VID_20210329_205042
VID_20210329_205219
Some pictures in te meanwhile :
Let me introduce my new little toy )
Dual Mono TPA3221 Amp. Really tiny but impressive : 134x59x90mm
Really well made, PCB exudes quality.
Spec :
- OPA1652
- Panasonic FC Power caps
- Anti Pop function / ON OFF
- WIMA caps
- Elna Audio Grade buffer caps
- Evox Film caps
- TPA3221 main chip
- PSU 15V / 7A
At first listening, amplifier is dead silent and sound awesome !
Will give a long listening test later vs Hypex vs Purifi.
Videos :
VID_20210329_205042
VID_20210329_205219
Some pictures in te meanwhile :
Last edited:
Finished first build - Shui Yuan TPA3255
Amp Board - Shui Yuan Audio TPA3255
PS - Mean Well LRS-100-24
Case - YONGU-W23B-226W1.5U
At last finished my first build and itching for my next any suggestions?
Maybe a MX50 AB and build the board.
Thank you to all that helped me on my 1st build.
Amp Board - Shui Yuan Audio TPA3255
PS - Mean Well LRS-100-24
Case - YONGU-W23B-226W1.5U
At last finished my first build and itching for my next any suggestions?
Maybe a MX50 AB and build the board.
Thank you to all that helped me on my 1st build.
Attachments
No it's not stupid ... In general The fuses on the smps power supplies are soldered ... Good luck!!!😉😉😉
Sexy amp ) well done 🙂
I suggest you to get the HanZao TPA3255 or the Hypex NC252MP module, you won't be disappointed for a next projet )
ICEpower 500A
Nothing particularly special about this one (and not much DIY 🙂), but it sounds nice. Will have to tidy up the wiring, especially the Arduino/relay portion. Enclosure and power supplies are from audiophonics, the ICEpower modules are from a user here on diyAudio.
Front (the white thing on top is this).
Back:
The RCA connectors are awesome since they have the nuts on the outside - you can remove them without desoldering any wires (or solder the wiring and then mount them). The speaker binding posts not so much. I'm unable to solder anything on them with my soldering iron.
Insides:
Funny thing about the enclosure: it's mediocre at best, but the lettering (silkscreen?) is the most durable that I ever seen. I was able to get it off the front panel with a razor blade and copious amounts of solvent. The back is a different matter. The solvent dissolves the black paint but not the blue lettering 😀. And it stinks. Like literally, even after a month on the shelf, it still absolutely reeks of something.
Nothing particularly special about this one (and not much DIY 🙂), but it sounds nice. Will have to tidy up the wiring, especially the Arduino/relay portion. Enclosure and power supplies are from audiophonics, the ICEpower modules are from a user here on diyAudio.
Front (the white thing on top is this).
Back:
The RCA connectors are awesome since they have the nuts on the outside - you can remove them without desoldering any wires (or solder the wiring and then mount them). The speaker binding posts not so much. I'm unable to solder anything on them with my soldering iron.
Insides:
Funny thing about the enclosure: it's mediocre at best, but the lettering (silkscreen?) is the most durable that I ever seen. I was able to get it off the front panel with a razor blade and copious amounts of solvent. The back is a different matter. The solvent dissolves the black paint but not the blue lettering 😀. And it stinks. Like literally, even after a month on the shelf, it still absolutely reeks of something.
Attachments
Modded Aiyima A04
Added thermal connection of heat sink and aluminium enclosure using an aluminium u-profile and thermal compound (diy store, approx. 5 EUR) facilitating heat dissipation over the whole aluminium enclosure.
Added big internal(?, mostly external - see picture ;-) power buffer elcap Roederstein 68000µF, 40V (from my well-sorted experiments box, purchased from remaining stock, some 5 EUR).
Replace 35V power buffer elcaps by 50V types (from my well-sorted experiments box) in order to try this amp both with different "linear" and switching low noise 36V power supplies.
Replace 5532 opamps by 4562 opamps (reichelt.de, approx. 4 EUR). Unfortunately didn't succeed in purchasing OPA1656 incl. DIL8-adaption, although strongly recommended by Rob43.
Replace ferrite core inductors by air core inductors, so no ferrite saturation distortion. Choosed Italian made made stranded wire inductors, not solid core, in order to avoid skin effect. Aligned output low pass for 4Ohm speakers to 40kHz Butterworth (Q = 0.7, regarding the higher resistance of air core vs. ferrite). Was the most expensive upgrade (autocostruire.com, approx. 37 EUR), but seems to be worth the price.
Bypassing of all power supply buffers and especially all audio signal elcaps by WIMA MKP/FKP Caps (MKP = polypropylene caps, FKP = polypropylene cap for advanced transient demands) (reichelt.de, approx. 3 EUR). The polypropylene caps used where the highest values available being geometrically small enough to be mounted under the printed circuit board - although these values do not meet the 1%-"rule of thumb" for bypass caps. Was advised not to use ceramic caps due to microphonic effects. Enclosure bottom tape-isolated to avoid short-circuiting.
Some minor replacements just for optical reasons: black screws instead of silver coloured screws of stainless steel fixing front panel, red power led changed to a green one, volume knob changed (optically still not satisfying).
A cordial "merci beaucoup" to daniboun to Lyon from Stuttgart. Your posts made me check A04 after first trials with A07! You were absolutely right!
Added thermal connection of heat sink and aluminium enclosure using an aluminium u-profile and thermal compound (diy store, approx. 5 EUR) facilitating heat dissipation over the whole aluminium enclosure.
Added big internal(?, mostly external - see picture ;-) power buffer elcap Roederstein 68000µF, 40V (from my well-sorted experiments box, purchased from remaining stock, some 5 EUR).
Replace 35V power buffer elcaps by 50V types (from my well-sorted experiments box) in order to try this amp both with different "linear" and switching low noise 36V power supplies.
Replace 5532 opamps by 4562 opamps (reichelt.de, approx. 4 EUR). Unfortunately didn't succeed in purchasing OPA1656 incl. DIL8-adaption, although strongly recommended by Rob43.
Replace ferrite core inductors by air core inductors, so no ferrite saturation distortion. Choosed Italian made made stranded wire inductors, not solid core, in order to avoid skin effect. Aligned output low pass for 4Ohm speakers to 40kHz Butterworth (Q = 0.7, regarding the higher resistance of air core vs. ferrite). Was the most expensive upgrade (autocostruire.com, approx. 37 EUR), but seems to be worth the price.
Bypassing of all power supply buffers and especially all audio signal elcaps by WIMA MKP/FKP Caps (MKP = polypropylene caps, FKP = polypropylene cap for advanced transient demands) (reichelt.de, approx. 3 EUR). The polypropylene caps used where the highest values available being geometrically small enough to be mounted under the printed circuit board - although these values do not meet the 1%-"rule of thumb" for bypass caps. Was advised not to use ceramic caps due to microphonic effects. Enclosure bottom tape-isolated to avoid short-circuiting.
Some minor replacements just for optical reasons: black screws instead of silver coloured screws of stainless steel fixing front panel, red power led changed to a green one, volume knob changed (optically still not satisfying).
A cordial "merci beaucoup" to daniboun to Lyon from Stuttgart. Your posts made me check A04 after first trials with A07! You were absolutely right!
Attachments
Btw., question to community: Is there any knob available nice/similar looking such as new replaced knob of Aiyima A07 to be seen on picture (= knob Cliff FC7232/KMR-25), but diameter 23mm as needed for Aiyima A04?
lessons learned/open questions:
Weak link still seems to be the power plug/socket (max 2A). It would be better to choose a cord from power supply directly to big buffer elcap and from buffer further to board. In my mod I didn't succeed running all cables optimally in regard to the additional big power buffer elcap.
Must be careful in regard the stranded wire air core inductors (intended for approx. 100W), next time I would choose the 500W type also avialable (autocostruire.com, set approx. 49 EUR, so surcharge just some 12 EUR vs. a set of 100W types).
I wonder whether it's more worthwhile to use bypass caps for power supply of opamps not directly from + to -, but both from + to ground and from - to ground.
Weak link still seems to be the power plug/socket (max 2A). It would be better to choose a cord from power supply directly to big buffer elcap and from buffer further to board. In my mod I didn't succeed running all cables optimally in regard to the additional big power buffer elcap.
Must be careful in regard the stranded wire air core inductors (intended for approx. 100W), next time I would choose the 500W type also avialable (autocostruire.com, set approx. 49 EUR, so surcharge just some 12 EUR vs. a set of 100W types).
I wonder whether it's more worthwhile to use bypass caps for power supply of opamps not directly from + to -, but both from + to ground and from - to ground.