Thank you, Russel! Really looking forward to it. Only fear is that there is not enough attenuation on my Glassware Frontpanel. So I ordered a 20k bluepot that I am waiting for. Will redo the front of my chassis if I go for that solution. But first try as is 🙂
After building a Korg B1, I'm thinking about building a BA2018. At the moment I'm trying to find out what I need for suitable power supplies. Could somebody tell me how much mA a single channel needs?
Hi, Leeuwarden!
I am building it right now. I use the Whammy-inspired PSU from Gaz at audiosy.net. It is regulated, at 18 volts max (safe and tested), any more than that is at own risk according to Gaz.
The PSU is regulated and adjustable. It also has some neat features, like switch function without need for AC-carrying wires, on-led and standby LED in addition to rail LEDs.
I am very happy so far, but as mentioned I am not finished. Will post some pics later today or tomorrow, so you can see how I use it. It is not a small board, however, but no prob in a 388 chassis.
Gaz is in here too, so if you are interested he is available on PM.
Great service and quick delivery.
Good luck!
Andy
I am building it right now. I use the Whammy-inspired PSU from Gaz at audiosy.net. It is regulated, at 18 volts max (safe and tested), any more than that is at own risk according to Gaz.
The PSU is regulated and adjustable. It also has some neat features, like switch function without need for AC-carrying wires, on-led and standby LED in addition to rail LEDs.
I am very happy so far, but as mentioned I am not finished. Will post some pics later today or tomorrow, so you can see how I use it. It is not a small board, however, but no prob in a 388 chassis.
Gaz is in here too, so if you are interested he is available on PM.
Great service and quick delivery.
Good luck!
Andy
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I have read that Wayne likes it at 18 volts, whilst some others prefer 20. it can take more than that according to Wayne. The parts are rated quite high, but I believe I read that with higher rails there might be a bigger need to sink some of the fets.
Cheers,
Andy
Cheers,
Andy
I am using a 25K series attenuator, and the attenuation seems just right to me, I would think 20k would be fine
Well I received my board and components for this build to replace my B1. Now just to do some reading to see if there are any changes I need to be aware of and to also check and see if I can use the volume control from my B1 on this board.
Exojam: Mr. Hui has ensured me 20k works well with SS gear upstream. I went for that, but haven’t tried it yet. I see others say the same earlier in this thread, that 20k-ish is fine, but that higher can work too. I ordered both 20 and 50, so we’ll see what works best.
Leeuwarden: can’t remember the exact voltage for a B1, but is it not around 24 volts like Dirk uses? Wayne has said (if I remember correctly) that 29v is OK too in this thread, parts are rated a lot higher than that.
Here are some in-progress photos. Next move is to mount and solder the ground loop breaker, seen in the pics near chassis ground.
As said my latest work had been finishing the front and back panel. Also note the red and blue LED on the front. When I switch the rails off, the red light turns on for standby. When I switch them on, the red light turns off and the blue LED lights up. Pretty neat imho. Don’t quite like the look of colored LED lenses on the front, ideal would be LEDs that turn dark/colourless when off instead of native color. Looks kinda like an arcade machine, but who cares for now.
Note that the filtered AC inlet is connected straight to PSU without switch, and is fused after the transformer, with the jumper right after which I have chosen to connect a switch to mounted on the faceplate. I have an extra switch and an external fuse that I consider adding later, but for now this works quite smoothly.
Not entirely happy with the metal work, it was a mess, but think I managed to cover up most of the errors 😀
Regards,
Andy
Leeuwarden: can’t remember the exact voltage for a B1, but is it not around 24 volts like Dirk uses? Wayne has said (if I remember correctly) that 29v is OK too in this thread, parts are rated a lot higher than that.
Here are some in-progress photos. Next move is to mount and solder the ground loop breaker, seen in the pics near chassis ground.
As said my latest work had been finishing the front and back panel. Also note the red and blue LED on the front. When I switch the rails off, the red light turns on for standby. When I switch them on, the red light turns off and the blue LED lights up. Pretty neat imho. Don’t quite like the look of colored LED lenses on the front, ideal would be LEDs that turn dark/colourless when off instead of native color. Looks kinda like an arcade machine, but who cares for now.
Note that the filtered AC inlet is connected straight to PSU without switch, and is fused after the transformer, with the jumper right after which I have chosen to connect a switch to mounted on the faceplate. I have an extra switch and an external fuse that I consider adding later, but for now this works quite smoothly.
Not entirely happy with the metal work, it was a mess, but think I managed to cover up most of the errors 😀
Regards,
Andy
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Thanks everyone.
KB1 is 24VDC but +/- and not +/0/-. I will drop Gaz a mail to see if he has any pcb's left for the power supply.
KB1 is 24VDC but +/- and not +/0/-. I will drop Gaz a mail to see if he has any pcb's left for the power supply.
I see.
Gaz’s nick here is Gaz2613.
Also see 6L6s post 1291 in this thread. He has tested several PSUs with the WLS 🙂
Gaz’s nick here is Gaz2613.
Also see 6L6s post 1291 in this thread. He has tested several PSUs with the WLS 🙂
Thanks again. Gaz his PSU looks good for me.
Off topic: are you from the neighbourhood of Bodø?
Off topic: are you from the neighbourhood of Bodø?
This is really off topic 🙂
No I have not been there. It is on my bucket list. My wife and I would like to travel through Norway from Bodø down to the south one day. Bodø because they have a airworthy F-104D Starfighter over there and maybe they would allow me to visit it (They are not flying it because problems with the ejection seats). Being an aircraft spotter I grew up with lot's of Starfighters because I live near an military base in Leeuwarden, The Netherlands. Starfighters are like flying dinosaurs. The Norwegian Starfighter visited Leeuwarden in 2018. Luckily I was able to see, and hear, it. Never thought that it would make me emotional to see one flying after some 35 years 🙂
Picture I made on that occasion: 2018-06-11 637 CF-104D NorAF | Jan van der Wal | Flickr
No I have not been there. It is on my bucket list. My wife and I would like to travel through Norway from Bodø down to the south one day. Bodø because they have a airworthy F-104D Starfighter over there and maybe they would allow me to visit it (They are not flying it because problems with the ejection seats). Being an aircraft spotter I grew up with lot's of Starfighters because I live near an military base in Leeuwarden, The Netherlands. Starfighters are like flying dinosaurs. The Norwegian Starfighter visited Leeuwarden in 2018. Luckily I was able to see, and hear, it. Never thought that it would make me emotional to see one flying after some 35 years 🙂
Picture I made on that occasion: 2018-06-11 637 CF-104D NorAF | Jan van der Wal | Flickr
Fantastic!
Quick tip: except for the Starfighter and the Air traffic museum, not much to see in Bodø, imho. But it is a great starting point to experience some of the best of the country. Fly to Bodø, take the ferry or Hurtigrute to the Lofoten Islands. Spend time there, walk, climb, rent a kayak, party, dive. You name it. You will not want to leave.
Completely off topic, sorry guys.
Quick tip: except for the Starfighter and the Air traffic museum, not much to see in Bodø, imho. But it is a great starting point to experience some of the best of the country. Fly to Bodø, take the ferry or Hurtigrute to the Lofoten Islands. Spend time there, walk, climb, rent a kayak, party, dive. You name it. You will not want to leave.
Completely off topic, sorry guys.
Hi, guys!
So, after some nervewrecking behaviour yesterday, hopefully caused by isoprop residue under the connection blocks, I woke up to a very, very stable one channel WLS today.
Offset at cold was 27mv, slowly and steadily declining to 2mv within 5 minutes, and then settling around 0,1-0,4mv after 20-30 minutes.
Up and running now, promising. Very very happy with the sound! A true improvement over purely resistive non-preamp solution I had before. Need second channel for final judgement, but very transparent, liquid and no harshness.
Still keeping a close eye on it, a bit worried yesterdays behaviour will repeat itself. But seems very stable, and for now i attribute the behaviour to isoprop residue which I identified after the strange behaviour.
I was about to give up yesterday, now my hopes are up again. Once Myleftears donation arrives in the post, I’ll try the other channel too. It has gone through some rough, as Mr. Daddypants is always too tired and too fast for his own good when connecting wires... ehemmm...
Btw, funny thing and an interesting ovservation: I knew high offset could cause hum. Well, it sure does. Yesterday I observed this as the offset went apeshit. Completely silent now. The residual noise is from my poweramp, which is quite low btw.
Still, will prolly put in some shielded wires and add a small cap and resistor on the ground loop breaker, and maybe add a gnd bus. We will see if it is needed or not.
I attached some pics showing the preliminary result and offset measurements (very stable).
Have a good weekend guys, thanks to all of you! A special thanks go out to 6L6, Wayne, Dirk, Dennis Mr. FAB Hui, David (Myleftear) and Russel. And to all good experiences read in this thread! Hope I did not forget anyone.
Regards,
Andreas
So, after some nervewrecking behaviour yesterday, hopefully caused by isoprop residue under the connection blocks, I woke up to a very, very stable one channel WLS today.
Offset at cold was 27mv, slowly and steadily declining to 2mv within 5 minutes, and then settling around 0,1-0,4mv after 20-30 minutes.
Up and running now, promising. Very very happy with the sound! A true improvement over purely resistive non-preamp solution I had before. Need second channel for final judgement, but very transparent, liquid and no harshness.
Still keeping a close eye on it, a bit worried yesterdays behaviour will repeat itself. But seems very stable, and for now i attribute the behaviour to isoprop residue which I identified after the strange behaviour.
I was about to give up yesterday, now my hopes are up again. Once Myleftears donation arrives in the post, I’ll try the other channel too. It has gone through some rough, as Mr. Daddypants is always too tired and too fast for his own good when connecting wires... ehemmm...
Btw, funny thing and an interesting ovservation: I knew high offset could cause hum. Well, it sure does. Yesterday I observed this as the offset went apeshit. Completely silent now. The residual noise is from my poweramp, which is quite low btw.
Still, will prolly put in some shielded wires and add a small cap and resistor on the ground loop breaker, and maybe add a gnd bus. We will see if it is needed or not.
I attached some pics showing the preliminary result and offset measurements (very stable).
Have a good weekend guys, thanks to all of you! A special thanks go out to 6L6, Wayne, Dirk, Dennis Mr. FAB Hui, David (Myleftear) and Russel. And to all good experiences read in this thread! Hope I did not forget anyone.
Regards,
Andreas
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to Andynor #2319
Good morning Andreas,
that looks excellent! Enjoy the sound
If the Fluke shows the DCoffset - supergood!
Greets
Dirk
Good morning Andreas,
that looks excellent! Enjoy the sound
If the Fluke shows the DCoffset - supergood!
Greets
Dirk