Who pushed the CBT button?
A Modified CBT24 setup would be the perfect statement speakers for your room. Read about my CBTs at:
My New Line Array--It's a Modified CBT24
I have two small powered 12" subs and the slim CBT towers in my living room. The EQ part and active crossover part is inherent within my HT receiver and its room correction capability.
A Modified CBT24 setup would be the perfect statement speakers for your room. Read about my CBTs at:
My New Line Array--It's a Modified CBT24
I have two small powered 12" subs and the slim CBT towers in my living room. The EQ part and active crossover part is inherent within my HT receiver and its room correction capability.
Hey Jim - good to see you here. I looked at the thread you linked. Are the drivers you use in the CBT still avaible? I didn't see tweeters on your version - do you not use them?
EDIT: The drivers are still at Madisound.
SB Acoustics SB65WBAC25-4 2.5" full range
EDIT: The drivers are still at Madisound.
SB Acoustics SB65WBAC25-4 2.5" full range
Hi graaf,
I built both using the same column of 24 TC9's.
My experience is the apparent acoustic center of the straight line moved up and down with ear height, much more so than the CBT.
The CBT held a focal point that stayed about the same height off the floor, no matter whether seated or standing, near of far....at about maybe 40% of the CBT's full height.
Should add my room had tall ceilings...not sure if that handicapped either one or not.
So just depends what you want i guess, as far as for listening height.
TY.
So I know we would rather stick to the wall where the wine rack is.
We could do it along the window and for the look of the OB's we might have changed the room but if we could leave it as it the line arrays look like a winner.
Plus the construction of the Wesayo means I can finally justify buying that 2D CNC I've been wanting
Very welcome
Sounds like you would meet all your goals and be very happy, with some straight-line, tall arrays.
Whatever path you end up taking, Good Luck !!
btw, if you do go with a straight-line, i'd choose between the tc9's like in wesayso's, or the probably better albeit more costly drivers, that Jim Griffin uses.
Figure out what you want to do for sub(s) and xover frequency, budget, ....then choose which line-array driver.
my 2c
Sounds like you would meet all your goals and be very happy, with some straight-line, tall arrays.
Whatever path you end up taking, Good Luck !!
btw, if you do go with a straight-line, i'd choose between the tc9's like in wesayso's, or the probably better albeit more costly drivers, that Jim Griffin uses.
Figure out what you want to do for sub(s) and xover frequency, budget, ....then choose which line-array driver.
my 2c
Ha ha very good.Plus the construction of the Wesayo means I can finally justify buying that 2D CNC I've been wanting
Just be sure to read thru Wesayso construction posts, including the gluing and splitting adventure.Ha ha very good.
I read through a lot of it over the weekend.
Lot of initial work and a ton of time he has spent figuring it out.
A 2D CNC should cut the workload down quite a bit. We have always wanted one. I've gotten away with projects because a lot of our customers are in manufacturing so I get them to make me one off stuff but for how those are constructed doing them all at home would make more sense.
A lot of good discussion about open baffles and line arrays. That is good.
I am going to offer a contrarian voice, and extoll the virtues of the conventional.
In my opinion, the path of least resistance in the journey to great sound is a pair of high quality full range conventional direct radiator speakers, combined with a pair of subwoofers.
Imagine a powerful, dynamic 3 way speaker, capable of high SPL and extending down to 40 Hz... matched up to a pair of subs to cover the bottom couple of octaves. When it comes to effective, realistic, low distortion bass, it is better to have multiple subwoofers in multiple locations... how many are needed is up for debate, but certainly going from one to two is a huge improvement. Paired subs are really nice.
Very early in the thread the TG ATS-4 was mentioned, and it is obviously a great speaker. Another one the Troels offers is the SBAcoustics 10, similar in design to the ATS-4. It uses the satori MW16P, one of the best midrange drivers around. Either of these will fill you house with sound, and be visually striking. I like Troels Gravesen projects. They seem well designed and detailed, but speakers like these will be clearly challenging to build.
Add a pair of good subs and you have total state of the art system... There are a lot of great kits available, and honestly, designing a subwoofer is not hard.
Anyway, that's my five-dollar opinion...
J.
I am going to offer a contrarian voice, and extoll the virtues of the conventional.
In my opinion, the path of least resistance in the journey to great sound is a pair of high quality full range conventional direct radiator speakers, combined with a pair of subwoofers.
Imagine a powerful, dynamic 3 way speaker, capable of high SPL and extending down to 40 Hz... matched up to a pair of subs to cover the bottom couple of octaves. When it comes to effective, realistic, low distortion bass, it is better to have multiple subwoofers in multiple locations... how many are needed is up for debate, but certainly going from one to two is a huge improvement. Paired subs are really nice.
Very early in the thread the TG ATS-4 was mentioned, and it is obviously a great speaker. Another one the Troels offers is the SBAcoustics 10, similar in design to the ATS-4. It uses the satori MW16P, one of the best midrange drivers around. Either of these will fill you house with sound, and be visually striking. I like Troels Gravesen projects. They seem well designed and detailed, but speakers like these will be clearly challenging to build.
Add a pair of good subs and you have total state of the art system... There are a lot of great kits available, and honestly, designing a subwoofer is not hard.
Anyway, that's my five-dollar opinion...
J.
A lot of good discussion about open baffles and line arrays. That is good.
I am going to offer a contrarian voice, and extoll the virtues of the conventional.
Add a pair of good subs and you have total state of the art system... There are a lot of great kits available, and honestly, designing a subwoofer is not hard.
Anyway, that's my five-dollar opinion...
J.
Thanks.
I guess the one part I am missing is a point of reference. I know the sound I like from what I have heard.
I've often heard "This speaker sounds like X at 3X less cost". It is part of the reason I bought my Salks but I got to hear those.
What I look for in a speaker is detail. I have excellent hearing, which can be a curse because I hear EVERTHING, but detail and a full sound are the two of the most important things to me.
Macy Gray has some incredible detail to her music with many layers to the sound, if you don't think so and have heard a lot of her music, I don't want your speakers
I hear a lot more detail in my Salks than the LS50's, although the Meta's are much much closer. There are simply sounds there that are not there on the other speakers in the house or in the car.
Detail, sound stage and emotion are the 3 main things I am looking for in the speaker sound.
How do some of these compare to commercial speakers as far as sound itself?
The other part is my wife and I like things different. If I were just to do 3 ways I'd go buy Revel F228be's, put them in the basement and move my Salk's up stairs.
Once the room is done it will be part of it like anything else.
Our ability to do finish work is not great. I can do a OK finish on a non-traditional looking speaker and come out with a unique result. I can do a OK finish on a traditional speaker and come up with a box that is a different color then when I started.
I'm going to spray some wood with Plastidip and see how it comes out, that'll give us a better visual on how a finish product might look.
This is gonna get me in hot water, but after reading your last post and your emphasis on detail, and looking up the LS50's and Salks specs.......
well dang, here goes anyway...
I don't think you want line arrays, at least not a single-driver type array.
Imho, they do not have the VHF performance that often completes fine detail.
It just takes a smaller, tighter, VHF source than a line that uses dynamic drivers, i think.
That said, a line array with multiple lines sections, one of which that included ribbons (like old infinity IRS) or maybe a line of super tiny domes, might be killer awesome indeed.
So really, i agree with hifijim...a well executed 3 way or 4 way could be a better project....at least sonically.
My previous comments, which steered towards a line array, were about trying to fit something really nice sounding into the wall space as you depicted.
But like said, your last post made me rethink that recommendation....
Tradeoffs, huh ? ........ fwiw as always
well dang, here goes anyway...
I don't think you want line arrays, at least not a single-driver type array.
Imho, they do not have the VHF performance that often completes fine detail.
It just takes a smaller, tighter, VHF source than a line that uses dynamic drivers, i think.
That said, a line array with multiple lines sections, one of which that included ribbons (like old infinity IRS) or maybe a line of super tiny domes, might be killer awesome indeed.
So really, i agree with hifijim...a well executed 3 way or 4 way could be a better project....at least sonically.
My previous comments, which steered towards a line array, were about trying to fit something really nice sounding into the wall space as you depicted.
But like said, your last post made me rethink that recommendation....
Tradeoffs, huh ?
........ fwiw as alwaysI understand the 3/4 way may be the better choice.
So Plan B...The basement space is much larger, ceilings are only 10' but I've got tons of room. The Salks work for one big reason the drivers are up high as we have a section of the couch about 2' away from the left speaker. We have thought of removing that if we moved to a different speaker.
I could move them upstairs and build something for downstairs. This is that space.
So Plan B...The basement space is much larger, ceilings are only 10' but I've got tons of room. The Salks work for one big reason the drivers are up high as we have a section of the couch about 2' away from the left speaker. We have thought of removing that if we moved to a different speaker.
I could move them upstairs and build something for downstairs. This is that space.
That is very true but in reality when bent to your liking with enough time and effort the difference becomes smaller and it is a necessary evil to gain some of the other benefits.
These are much more difficult to do without throwing the baby out with the bathwater.
If the positioning can be right in the room then they are a great option. Being close to the front wall can be mitigated with EQ but close side walls need waveguides or other directivity options.
AlwaysTradeoffs, huh ?
I'm seeing this image, but I never could look at the first. Could you try that first image again please.
