QUOTE=miro1360;6468613]@nano35
Try to slow down DATA with 1k resistor (in series), if not helped install the resistor on the BCK (either one or the other).[/QUOTE]
Thanks I will try that.
I will take a look of my usb interface.
Diyiggy,
I also tried the dac directly connected to Fifopi’s I2S.
It still cannot do beyond 96KHz.
Try to slow down DATA with 1k resistor (in series), if not helped install the resistor on the BCK (either one or the other).[/QUOTE]
Thanks I will try that.
I will take a look of my usb interface.
Diyiggy,
I also tried the dac directly connected to Fifopi’s I2S.
It still cannot do beyond 96KHz.
For anyone looking for a PCB and the AD1862 DAC chips.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/365433-pcb-ad1862-chips-miro-dac.html#post6472454
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/365433-pcb-ad1862-chips-miro-dac.html#post6472454
ten days for me with the standard shipping from China ! It may be more because of the chanel custom these time between continental Europe and Great Britain.
Hey guys, I just found in old toolbox some aops more for testing purpose : 627PB, 2604, 833, TL71, 5032, 4060, AD825, 275, 711.... : totally forgott I have them... they add to the list of the others
.
Anyone aware of a cheap EU shop for soic to dip adaptor for single channel oap as soic double channel towards single dip ? I'm becoming lazy...
Hey guys, I just found in old toolbox some aops more for testing purpose : 627PB, 2604, 833, TL71, 5032, 4060, AD825, 275, 711.... : totally forgott I have them... they add to the list of the others
.Anyone aware of a cheap EU shop for soic to dip adaptor for single channel oap as soic double channel towards single dip ? I'm becoming lazy...
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Wow,
nice, many thanks Vunce ... I defintly have to follow your way and beginn to learn to draw those things myself ... ah, for putting the AYA discrete regs for the AD1862 as well
That's my problem... tons of parts to try ! So I find again these oaps (the 627 were a good surprise). the 1656, the 810, I also purchased, to copare again, etc, etc
I also see some 1k5 Amtrans carbon resistors, some Allen Bradley in plus with a pair of 1k Rhopoint in the tool box... some Vishay wirewound of all types... something like 15 x 47 uF to try and so on... (tons of caps, all brandnew) ah yes the Vishay bulk resistor one from Mouser as well
( a little one not so expensive, not the blue ones alas !)
And I finally asked myself if the 22R of the I2S could be removed with some I2S streamer or swaped for smd EMI coil of 22 ohms resistance ????
good good little board that Miro has made for us
nice, many thanks Vunce
... I defintly have to follow your way and beginn to learn to draw those things myself ... ah, for putting the AYA discrete regs for the AD1862 as well That's my problem... tons of parts to try ! So I find again these oaps (the 627 were a good surprise). the 1656, the 810, I also purchased, to copare again, etc, etc
I also see some 1k5 Amtrans carbon resistors, some Allen Bradley in plus with a pair of 1k Rhopoint in the tool box... some Vishay wirewound of all types... something like 15 x 47 uF to try and so on... (tons of caps, all brandnew) ah yes the Vishay bulk resistor one from Mouser as well
( a little one not so expensive, not the blue ones alas !)And I finally asked myself if the 22R of the I2S could be removed with some I2S streamer or swaped for smd EMI coil of 22 ohms resistance ????
good good little board that Miro has made for us
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As mentioned when discussing opamps, I am by no means a tweaker but am finding the call to try some different components is hard to resist.
So I've sourced a couple of General Resistance 1.5k resistors (as sold by Rhopoint) and am building another board. The OSB board has been hard to desolder from for some reason, so this time will use sockets for some of the discrete components.
In addition to R8/R9, it looks like the audio signal goes directly through R10/R11 and C37/C38 (if used). How about the (filtering? DC blocking?) cap pairs C27+29, C28+30, C32+34, and C33+35?
So I've sourced a couple of General Resistance 1.5k resistors (as sold by Rhopoint) and am building another board
. The OSB board has been hard to desolder from for some reason, so this time will use sockets for some of the discrete components. In addition to R8/R9, it looks like the audio signal goes directly through R10/R11 and C37/C38 (if used). How about the (filtering? DC blocking?) cap pairs C27+29, C28+30, C32+34, and C33+35?
@Paddy Garcia
if C37/38 is not used, you can short the R10/11 with switch during direct listening and look for a difference
that is good question about cap pairs, @diyiggy tried most capacitors
... I think the easiest and fastest method to find a best 100uF electrolytic capacitor is take a 10uF from each testing group and put this capacitor in series with the signal way, look for a sound difference and select the best sounding one (there are many types, nichicon has: FG, FW, KZ, KW ... panasonic has FC type, and many others)
... for testing 100nF PP foil brand/type, similar method, take a smaller value, like 1uF from each type and test it in the signal
if C37/38 is not used, you can short the R10/11 with switch during direct listening and look for a difference
that is good question about cap pairs, @diyiggy tried most capacitors
... I think the easiest and fastest method to find a best 100uF electrolytic capacitor is take a 10uF from each testing group and put this capacitor in series with the signal way, look for a sound difference and select the best sounding one
(there are many types, nichicon has: FG, FW, KZ, KW ... panasonic has FC type, and many others)... for testing 100nF PP foil brand/type, similar method, take a smaller value, like 1uF from each type and test it in the signal
I always proceed like that... caps but smds are never soldered before one or 2 years of weekly tests. I have to hide in a room to do that to avoid the men in white, family could call! But it pays off !
But Miro is a little short on the description : don't only test these caps but their voltage and capacitance variations... with experience you can go fast because you already know what caps will not sounds good with your whole hifi setup ! Ah, always switch off the dac before to get in and out caps, please ! It's easy when you had tons you purchased at Mouser and all during 20 years... oh damn I tried a dried cap... lol ! (my old Black Gate works fine yet !)
But Miro is a little short on the description : don't only test these caps but their voltage and capacitance variations... with experience you can go fast because you already know what caps will not sounds good with your whole hifi setup ! Ah, always switch off the dac before to get in and out caps, please ! It's easy when you had tons you purchased at Mouser and all during 20 years... oh damn I tried a dried cap... lol ! (my old Black Gate works fine yet !)
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