Ok, let's think of this another way. R6+RV1 is a variable resistor that has a minimum value (set by R6) and a maximum value. (set by the value of the pot)
If you use the "blasphemous heresy" values (which is the funniest name ever for something that adds flexibility with absolutely zero downside) You'll have a range of adjustment from 37K to 57K, or a delta of 20,000 ohms.
Do you think the 400ohms of 37.4K vs. 37.0K will make any operational difference?
If you use the "blasphemous heresy" values (which is the funniest name ever for something that adds flexibility with absolutely zero downside) You'll have a range of adjustment from 37K to 57K, or a delta of 20,000 ohms.
Do you think the 400ohms of 37.4K vs. 37.0K will make any operational difference?
He was trying to get you to think Chip. I knew where he was going, probably a bunch of us, did not respond during a teaching moment.
If you read page one, you can figure this out as they speak of ways to work with an neg offset on some boards/builds.
6 never misses an opportunity to try and get people to figure it out on their own. If someone always just gives you a value and you no not why, you have learned nothing.
I find myself in the same boat as you much of the time, but I do try and figure it out, on my own, if I can.
If you read page one, you can figure this out as they speak of ways to work with an neg offset on some boards/builds.
6 never misses an opportunity to try and get people to figure it out on their own. If someone always just gives you a value and you no not why, you have learned nothing.
I find myself in the same boat as you much of the time, but I do try and figure it out, on my own, if I can.
I'm in the process of building an M2x. Since this is my first serious DIY project, I try to get the amplifier up and running slowly, step by step. I have built and checked Mountain View and Ischikawa cards. I will have the power supply ready in a moment. I want to make sure I can run and check the amplifier boards without daughter cards?
If you do all three of these actions before powering up an M2x amp channel card
then you won't force destructive amounts of DC into the Edcor transformer's primary coils.
I strongly recommend that you use your DVM, in "continuity tester" mode, to become absolutely convinced that you've correctly identified bolt 2 and bolt 4. Studying the schematic of the amp card (mother board) below, you can see that only one of the four bolts has electrical continuity to capacitor C0. Eureka and congratulations, you have found bolt #2! Now devise a similar plan to identify bolt #4.
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- completely remove the input stage daughter card
- short the IPS daughter card input (bolt #2) to the IPS daughter card output (bolt #4) with many figure-eight wraps of copper wire
- insert a shorting plug into the RCA input jack, which connects INPUTSIGNAL to GROUND
then you won't force destructive amounts of DC into the Edcor transformer's primary coils.
I strongly recommend that you use your DVM, in "continuity tester" mode, to become absolutely convinced that you've correctly identified bolt 2 and bolt 4. Studying the schematic of the amp card (mother board) below, you can see that only one of the four bolts has electrical continuity to capacitor C0. Eureka and congratulations, you have found bolt #2! Now devise a similar plan to identify bolt #4.
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I thought it was a bit dangerous and that's why I added extra insulation at these points. I have to correct this. Thanks.
Here's how I did it and the parts from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Hawk-AZG...NW9&pd_rd_i=B002X4AFL0&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_1_1_t
https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Hawk-AZG...NW9&pd_rd_i=B002X4AFL0&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_1_1_t
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I am the person who laid out all seven of the PCBs that are in the package sold by the diyAudio store. Five input stage daughter cards, plus two amp channel boards which are (partial) mirror images.
I also laid out the other two input stage daughter card PCBs for the M2x, which the diyAudio Store does NOT sell. Instead, the PCB CAD files (in "Gerber" format) are freely downloadable by anyone. See post #3408 in this thread.
I also laid out the other two input stage daughter card PCBs for the M2x, which the diyAudio Store does NOT sell. Instead, the PCB CAD files (in "Gerber" format) are freely downloadable by anyone. See post #3408 in this thread.
All the pins on the PCB are described very well but of course( following your advice) I will check this description using DVM
Thanks
Help with a part
I ordered trimpot #858-64WR5KLF from Mouser and received units that don't have the three pins in a straight line. See photos.
Looking closer at the image at Mouser, I received what they offered.
I've searched the Internet with no luck in finding pins in a straight line with this product code.
I'm sure I'm missing something really simple, but would appreciate help in seeing where I'm confused.
thanks
I ordered trimpot #858-64WR5KLF from Mouser and received units that don't have the three pins in a straight line. See photos.
Looking closer at the image at Mouser, I received what they offered.
I've searched the Internet with no luck in finding pins in a straight line with this product code.
I'm sure I'm missing something really simple, but would appreciate help in seeing where I'm confused.
thanks
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Chiptech, can you bend the middle leg enough for it to fit the PCB?
For a trimmer in the same series as what you already have, but with three
pins in a row, you can try 64YR5KLF:
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail...ctronics/64YR5KLF?qs=z4G76Bmj19TgDS/A2tsaFg==
You can see the pin arrangement in the datasheet. For example, on page 3:
https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/414/64-1528379.pdf
For a trimmer in the same series as what you already have, but with three
pins in a row, you can try 64YR5KLF:
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail...ctronics/64YR5KLF?qs=z4G76Bmj19TgDS/A2tsaFg==
You can see the pin arrangement in the datasheet. For example, on page 3:
https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/414/64-1528379.pdf