Awesome, if I am going for a dedicated sub-amp, I'll go for the TAS5630. Also good to know about the chargers! That should make my search way easier, thanks! It won't run full power I'm pretty sure, so cooling should be OK. Hopefully Aiyima made sure it wouldn't run hot in the first place. I appreciate the word of concern tho!
The whole Logigtech amp/PSU is indeed inside the sub. Though, the volume, bass and power controls are on the right tweeter, connected with a VGA cable. I'd need to find out how to bypass it.
Line level shouldn't be a problem. I'm using an ODAC to send signal to an o2 for my headphones, as well as to the 2.1 amp. I could just split the signal to the amp and send it towards the sub. Only concerning thing would be the frequency cutoff. Worse case scenario, it'll be temporary until I get the TAS5630.
Thanks a ton for your time and dedication! You've saved me a ton of time, trial and error. My head has been spinning on this multiple times, especially the last 3 days, and you have nullified the struggles.
I might pop back in if I have any questions about the Logitech setup, and/or whenever I go for the TAS5630.
The whole Logigtech amp/PSU is indeed inside the sub. Though, the volume, bass and power controls are on the right tweeter, connected with a VGA cable. I'd need to find out how to bypass it.
Line level shouldn't be a problem. I'm using an ODAC to send signal to an o2 for my headphones, as well as to the 2.1 amp. I could just split the signal to the amp and send it towards the sub. Only concerning thing would be the frequency cutoff. Worse case scenario, it'll be temporary until I get the TAS5630.
Thanks a ton for your time and dedication! You've saved me a ton of time, trial and error. My head has been spinning on this multiple times, especially the last 3 days, and you have nullified the struggles.
I might pop back in if I have any questions about the Logitech setup, and/or whenever I go for the TAS5630.
The Logitech amp is a nice project to hack, and learn at the same time. If the power amp is good, I'd say it's totally worth it.
Find the amplifier chips on it. You should have one for the sub and one/two for the speakers. I'd remove the speaker chips completely, either desolder, either just cut the leads, remove the chip, then remove each lead with the soldering iron. You shouldn't leave cut leads that may short. Then find the subwoofer amp chip, and follow the traces. You should have some caps on the signal input. Easiest way is to take out the leads from those, that are facing away from the chip, and inject the signal there. You could route some wires from those caps to the back rca/jack connector. Logitech might have used both channels for subwoofer, and feed the same signal to both, or maybe used it in mono mode. You need to see what chip they used.
The VGA cable should have the wires that turn on/off the amp, power delivery to the speaker with the on/off button and also signal delivery to the drivers in the speakers. You could disconnect the vga cable, and follow the traces and see what is turning on the amp. You could take the VCC from the power supply and route it through a switch on the back of the sub. I can't help you much without a schematic and photos of the board but it's a nice project to learn.
Take care tho, there's mains voltage on that board, as the power supply is integrated into it. It's the left side part from the photo. There should be a trace running to the right side of the board with the VCC for the amp. There should be some linear regs for the logic and opamps. For sure there's sub and mid/tweeter filters with opamps.
But if you want to not stress about it you could remove all internals and get a separate amp/power supply, and also see about line level filter for bass. You should keep the connectors on the sub plate, as removing any would make for air to escape and might affect the subwoofer's response.
Find the amplifier chips on it. You should have one for the sub and one/two for the speakers. I'd remove the speaker chips completely, either desolder, either just cut the leads, remove the chip, then remove each lead with the soldering iron. You shouldn't leave cut leads that may short. Then find the subwoofer amp chip, and follow the traces. You should have some caps on the signal input. Easiest way is to take out the leads from those, that are facing away from the chip, and inject the signal there. You could route some wires from those caps to the back rca/jack connector. Logitech might have used both channels for subwoofer, and feed the same signal to both, or maybe used it in mono mode. You need to see what chip they used.
The VGA cable should have the wires that turn on/off the amp, power delivery to the speaker with the on/off button and also signal delivery to the drivers in the speakers. You could disconnect the vga cable, and follow the traces and see what is turning on the amp. You could take the VCC from the power supply and route it through a switch on the back of the sub. I can't help you much without a schematic and photos of the board but it's a nice project to learn.
Take care tho, there's mains voltage on that board, as the power supply is integrated into it. It's the left side part from the photo. There should be a trace running to the right side of the board with the VCC for the amp. There should be some linear regs for the logic and opamps. For sure there's sub and mid/tweeter filters with opamps.
But if you want to not stress about it you could remove all internals and get a separate amp/power supply, and also see about line level filter for bass. You should keep the connectors on the sub plate, as removing any would make for air to escape and might affect the subwoofer's response.
Cheers, thanks a lot for the detail! I'm a little bit scared to take on a project like this. I'd like to gain a bit more knowledge before starting something like that. I tried checking the pins one by one and found the power switch and 2 pins that are connected to all other pins (ground probably?). But then I found another pin that also functions as power, so there are multiple component that toggle on/off with the power switch.
For now, I've actually just opened up the right tweeter with the controls, and just desoldered the wires to the speaker, and put some electric tape over those wires. I'm in the process of putting it all together now.
This way, I should still have all the controls I need while also being non destructive. If I ever get a different sub, I still have this near-working condition.
I will save your post for future reference might I be in the mood to go on adventure and learn some more. Not only for this project, but all that insight is super useful in general!
I do wonder if Logitech designed the box volume with the components in mind. I might be overthinking it, but leaving them in might be better. Given the fact that removing everything will be a big pain and indeed have a big change to loose the air-tightness.
I'll let you know what I'll be doing. For know, a huge thanks for all your help!
For now, I've actually just opened up the right tweeter with the controls, and just desoldered the wires to the speaker, and put some electric tape over those wires. I'm in the process of putting it all together now.
This way, I should still have all the controls I need while also being non destructive. If I ever get a different sub, I still have this near-working condition.
I will save your post for future reference might I be in the mood to go on adventure and learn some more. Not only for this project, but all that insight is super useful in general!
I do wonder if Logitech designed the box volume with the components in mind. I might be overthinking it, but leaving them in might be better. Given the fact that removing everything will be a big pain and indeed have a big change to loose the air-tightness.
I'll let you know what I'll be doing. For know, a huge thanks for all your help!
Well, results are in! The sub sounds worse then I can remember. Call me spoiled by hi-fi products. It's just boomy, not controlled and all over the place. Just not a nice listening experience in general.
I think I'll pull the trigger (soon) on the TAS5630. I only have one more question; You recommended a 48v 3amp PSU. I read people using 600w Mean Wells and see recommendations of at least 7.5 amps (On the Aliexpress description). I understand that 48x3 = 144w of power, but are you sure this will suffice?
I think I'll pull the trigger (soon) on the TAS5630. I only have one more question; You recommended a 48v 3amp PSU. I read people using 600w Mean Wells and see recommendations of at least 7.5 amps (On the Aliexpress description). I understand that 48x3 = 144w of power, but are you sure this will suffice?
Depends on what the purpose of the amp is. If you want 600W out of it then sure, you need a 600W power supply. for 48V that's like 12.5A, so you'd need a 14A to make sure you can sustain those 600W.
If you're using it to power a 100W sub, then you basically need 100W/48V= 2.08A, but you also need to account for the efficiency of the amp which is 90% for 100W into 8ohm so around 2.3A. Say 2.5-3A to make sure the supply is not loaded to the max.
Looking at the datasheet the chip is 4 channels in SE, 2 channels in BTL and 1 mono channel in PBTL. Page 15 shows the graphs for the PBTL. You can get around 100-130W of clean power out of it at 8 ohm. You could get 100W into 8 ohm at around 38V as it looks, but you'd have high THD+N. I'd go with 48V to make sure the amp is up to it. If you're ever going to power the sub at 100-130W, then you'd need a 150W power supply. If you want to go higher, with say 2x300W 4ohm subwoofers then yes, you'd need a 600W supply. Well 660W + some margin so around 700-800W. If you want to make sure the (edit) 130W sub power supply stays relaxed then a 48V/4A one should do just fine.
If you're using it to power a 100W sub, then you basically need 100W/48V= 2.08A, but you also need to account for the efficiency of the amp which is 90% for 100W into 8ohm so around 2.3A. Say 2.5-3A to make sure the supply is not loaded to the max.
Looking at the datasheet the chip is 4 channels in SE, 2 channels in BTL and 1 mono channel in PBTL. Page 15 shows the graphs for the PBTL. You can get around 100-130W of clean power out of it at 8 ohm. You could get 100W into 8 ohm at around 38V as it looks, but you'd have high THD+N. I'd go with 48V to make sure the amp is up to it. If you're ever going to power the sub at 100-130W, then you'd need a 150W power supply. If you want to go higher, with say 2x300W 4ohm subwoofers then yes, you'd need a 600W supply. Well 660W + some margin so around 700-800W. If you want to make sure the (edit) 130W sub power supply stays relaxed then a 48V/4A one should do just fine.
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Thanks for you suggestions!
I checked to make sure that the positive and negative isn't reversed. It is all wired up correctly. But I cannot make them sound good. I understand that there is a limit to how good they can sound due to the design and size. But they sound worse then many small bluetooth speakers right now.
I have 8" speakers from Dayton Audio which are fantastic, so I know they are a good brand.
I also have the exact same setup with the same TPA3116 2x100w amp and 24V 5A power supply connected to a chromecast audio using two cheap marine grade speakers (6x9") which sounds 100 times better than this. I know they are larger, but it should not be this bad.
I like your ideas, but I would love to not have to modify the speakers. My thinking is that maybe the power supply is too powerful? Or maybe I should buy another mini amp? Suggestions?
Hi!
I just bought this little amp and I connect it with 8 ohm speakers (10watt, 4ohm) which works well (basically reusing Logitech Z600 speaker).
This amp have extra channel for sub, so I bought one, 50watt (100watt max) subwoofer, 4ohm. But the sound I'm getting from the subwoofer is very2 low. The coil was moving like crazy when I turn the sub dial to 50% but there is no punch/kick, very-very muted, muddy bass.
I'm using 24V 2.3A power supply, I wonder is that the problem? The sub is for car subwoofer so I understand if it were different, but I'm not looking for very deep bass or house shaking, just adding a little punch to the music will do just fine.
I'm planning to buy power supply 24V 10a to see if it helps, but want to hear your thoughts first. Thanks!
I just bought this little amp and I connect it with 8 ohm speakers (10watt, 4ohm) which works well (basically reusing Logitech Z600 speaker).
This amp have extra channel for sub, so I bought one, 50watt (100watt max) subwoofer, 4ohm. But the sound I'm getting from the subwoofer is very2 low. The coil was moving like crazy when I turn the sub dial to 50% but there is no punch/kick, very-very muted, muddy bass.
I'm using 24V 2.3A power supply, I wonder is that the problem? The sub is for car subwoofer so I understand if it were different, but I'm not looking for very deep bass or house shaking, just adding a little punch to the music will do just fine.
I'm planning to buy power supply 24V 10a to see if it helps, but want to hear your thoughts first. Thanks!
Car subwoofers are designed to work with the small space of the car, they have different specs than ones made to work in rooms. I wouldn't try to adapt it.
I wouldn't use a tpa3116 for a subwoofer application. For homes I'd get a subwoofer around 100W and 8ohm. That would need a different type of amp, tpa3116 isn't able to properly drive a 8ohm sub, unless you have a very efficient one.
Now I have connected the two dual voice coil speakers in paralell to the 2x100 TPA3116D2 amp. I think maybe the amplifier itself it too powerful, or maybe only the power supply?
Dayton Audio - ME652C 6-1/2" Dual Channel Ceiling Speaker Each
Each speaker which is dual voice coil has these specs:
Power Handling (RMS) 35 W
Power Handling (max) 70 W
And by connecting these speakers in paralell I get 4 ohm if I have calculated this correctly.
According to the specsheet of the 2x100W amp 12V on 4 Ohm will output 40 + 40W.
Right now I have the 24V powersource which delivers more than 110 + 110W on 4 Ohm.
Or have I miscalculated? As each speaker spec is: Impedance: 8 + 8 ohm (dual)
My thinking is that I should either buy a 12V power source (maybe 15V), and this way get a more controlled result, right now I have to be on the lower end of the volume on the amp, which I think hurts the audio when I only adjust on my Chromecast Audio.
Dayton Audio - ME652C 6-1/2" Dual Channel Ceiling Speaker Each
Each speaker which is dual voice coil has these specs:
Power Handling (RMS) 35 W
Power Handling (max) 70 W
And by connecting these speakers in paralell I get 4 ohm if I have calculated this correctly.
According to the specsheet of the 2x100W amp 12V on 4 Ohm will output 40 + 40W.
Right now I have the 24V powersource which delivers more than 110 + 110W on 4 Ohm.
Or have I miscalculated? As each speaker spec is: Impedance: 8 + 8 ohm (dual)
My thinking is that I should either buy a 12V power source (maybe 15V), and this way get a more controlled result, right now I have to be on the lower end of the volume on the amp, which I think hurts the audio when I only adjust on my Chromecast Audio.
tpa3116d2 delivers 50W into 4ohms with 24-26V. That is total output power for a single chip wired in BTL. If you have two of these chips in BTL, with a 24-26V supply, they can both output each 50W of clean power into 4 ohm loads.
12V power supply will allow for a total of 15W for a single tpa3116 chip (BTL) into 4ohm loads.
Hello everyone!
I'm still a beginner at electronics, so...
I just recently got a small TPA3116 board, and it seems to be "ok", at least when compared to the PAM8610 I was using before.
There's is definitely much better audio quality from it using the same power source. The volume feels a bit lackluster, but oddly enough, the 1k ohm Log Pot I am using is working a lot better with this board.
I've searched quite a bunch in this thread, but only really found 2 posts commenting on a similar board model regarding mods.
All in all, I think that the kick bass and lower frequencies feels a bit muddied. As in there's no volume in them. The PAM8610 had a much more intense kick bass, on the exact same speakers.
I'm using this board on a 12V 5A powersource (as the PAM was) to power 2 small 2 way boxes I built. The main woofer is a 6 in rated for 60W and there's a Mylar tweeter that is 40, so 100W per box.
DC 12V 24V 2x50W Dual Channel Mini Digital Amplifier D Class 50W+50W TPA3116D2 XH M562 Amplifier 50W Power Amplifier Board|Integrated Circuits| - AliExpress
The only thing I cearly noticed were the holes for capacitors. I couldn't find exactly the use those caps would have in this design, nor values that should be used (I guess it's filter caps?)
Other than that, is there anything I could change/improve on this small design? I wont be running at high power (or should I get a 24V PSU?) to improve a bit the audio quality.
Below is a picture of how my project is sitting at. I haven't found the need to add a heatsink just yet (not using full volume at all).
Any help is greatly appreciated!
I'm still a beginner at electronics, so...
I just recently got a small TPA3116 board, and it seems to be "ok", at least when compared to the PAM8610 I was using before.
There's is definitely much better audio quality from it using the same power source. The volume feels a bit lackluster, but oddly enough, the 1k ohm Log Pot I am using is working a lot better with this board.
I've searched quite a bunch in this thread, but only really found 2 posts commenting on a similar board model regarding mods.
All in all, I think that the kick bass and lower frequencies feels a bit muddied. As in there's no volume in them. The PAM8610 had a much more intense kick bass, on the exact same speakers.
I'm using this board on a 12V 5A powersource (as the PAM was) to power 2 small 2 way boxes I built. The main woofer is a 6 in rated for 60W and there's a Mylar tweeter that is 40, so 100W per box.
DC 12V 24V 2x50W Dual Channel Mini Digital Amplifier D Class 50W+50W TPA3116D2 XH M562 Amplifier 50W Power Amplifier Board|Integrated Circuits| - AliExpress
The only thing I cearly noticed were the holes for capacitors. I couldn't find exactly the use those caps would have in this design, nor values that should be used (I guess it's filter caps?)
Other than that, is there anything I could change/improve on this small design? I wont be running at high power (or should I get a 24V PSU?) to improve a bit the audio quality.
Below is a picture of how my project is sitting at. I haven't found the need to add a heatsink just yet (not using full volume at all).
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Greetings to all, in the holes 2 Panasonic FM 1000uF 35v, C6 and C9 are input capacitors and I put Panasonic ECWFE 2,2uF 450v interchangeable. I can't find the function and value of the other components to modify Zobel filter. The gain is quite low, I have to identify the resistance to try to raise the gain a little. Anyone familiar with this board can answer, thank you.
Has anyone used the Wuzhi amp, this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Au...=1&keywords=wuzhi+2x100&qid=1603813141&sr=8-1
I have two of them, and according to the instructions, bluetooth should disable automatically when you plug in a 3.5mm input to the AUX. This does not happen on mine. I have Chromecast Audio connected to both of them (two CCA, two amps). And they still show up when I look for bluetooth devices.
The issue here is that they require no password to connect, which means anyone can connect to them and blast music at high volume if they want.
This is not ideal.
Any idea on how to disable bluetooth?
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Au...=1&keywords=wuzhi+2x100&qid=1603813141&sr=8-1
I have two of them, and according to the instructions, bluetooth should disable automatically when you plug in a 3.5mm input to the AUX. This does not happen on mine. I have Chromecast Audio connected to both of them (two CCA, two amps). And they still show up when I look for bluetooth devices.
The issue here is that they require no password to connect, which means anyone can connect to them and blast music at high volume if they want.
This is not ideal.
Any idea on how to disable bluetooth?
Thank you for this! I will try to get some caps for those then!
I just don't think I can get high quality caps and so on. Is there any recommended values for overshooting in case of lower quality caps?
I couldn't really find any information on the other components for this specific board. This one doesn't seem as popular, since it seems to be one of the cheapest designs around.