Proper amp-wiring, from sound-au.com:
https://sound-au.com/psw-f2.png
(Article here: Power Supply Wiring Guidelines )
A good image is worth a 1000 words...
[emoji6]
https://sound-au.com/psw-f2.png
(Article here: Power Supply Wiring Guidelines )
A good image is worth a 1000 words...
[emoji6]
What exactly is a shorted turn and how does a nylon bolt avoid the problem?
Thanks.
Jazzzman
My understanding is that if you were to have a closed loop of wire that went through the hole of the torus- imagine a metal U-bolt going through the hole and bolted onto the metal chassis- you'd have a closed circuit in which a current would be induced by the transformer. A big no-no. One way around this is the Omega clamp: Omega-Bracket – Toroid which I got (very nice folks but shipping costs and arm and a leg unless you can do a local pick-up in MD).
A nylon bolt obviates this problem as it's non-conducting. Unless it's pretty beefy I wonder how it can be used to mount the toroid vertically.
Yes, totally hear you on that. As soon as you add an option here, another option there, pretty soon you have the universal PS board. Perhaps simply a pointer to the thread on build tips to facilitate swapping Pass amp circuits would suffice...?
Sure, I'd be willing to lend a hand. Something like gather up advice about dealing with noise/hum from a few threads? I'm slowly building up my parts and tools, and so haven't started in earnest.
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Shorted turn - basically the transformer doesn't care if it's trying to conduct through wires around the core or metal mounting hardware - so the mount must be only on one side and nothing loop around the core in its entirety. Nylon, as mentioned, breaks the circuit.
The following photo shows what you don't want to do.
The following photo shows what you don't want to do.
Thank you both very much. I had no idea. (That is the problem when you don’t know what you don’t know.) If I understand correctly, the “L” bracket would be okay? L-Bracket – Toroid
Yes, that Toroidy L-bracket should be fine as long as you don't mount it in the arrangement shown above in 6L6's picture.
If you're using Antek toroids, just use the included mounting hardware, and mount each transformer flat on the bottom of the case and you'll be good.
If you have any questions about the safety of your amp, post a pic here before firing it up.
If you're using Antek toroids, just use the included mounting hardware, and mount each transformer flat on the bottom of the case and you'll be good.
If you have any questions about the safety of your amp, post a pic here before firing it up.
What female Faston connectors do people prefer for connecting bridges and amp boards to PSU board blade connectors? I'm seeing a dizzying array at Mouser, wondering if there's an easy choice? I'm assuming something that allows crimping AND soldering is better than crimp alone for reliability (esp in the hands of noobs like me who maybe have never used a crimper)?
I usually just pick them up at the local hardware store or get a pile off of Amazon.
That's not really a part that I personally over-analyze. Pick the proper size for the wire gauge you're using to help ensure a good crimp. They are sometimes color-coded based on wire size. Common colors are red, blue, and yellow. It'll tell you the corresponding gauges in the specs. All can be soldered in addition to crimping if you want to remove some of the insulation or if you buy uninsulated connectors.
That's not really a part that I personally over-analyze. Pick the proper size for the wire gauge you're using to help ensure a good crimp. They are sometimes color-coded based on wire size. Common colors are red, blue, and yellow. It'll tell you the corresponding gauges in the specs. All can be soldered in addition to crimping if you want to remove some of the insulation or if you buy uninsulated connectors.
I ordered these from Mouser: 19002-0001 Molex | Mouser
19002-0024 Molex | Mouser
They appear to match the size of the blades in the bridges and the blades in the Noob BOM.
I have not received them yet, but I think they will work.
Jazzzman
19002-0024 Molex | Mouser
They appear to match the size of the blades in the bridges and the blades in the Noob BOM.
I have not received them yet, but I think they will work.
Jazzzman
I grab the by the connector end with old needle nose, hold it over a flame until it begins to melt, scrape plastic insulator off. Solder, use shrink wrap.
Russellc
Did another search and found the fuse should be 2.5A 250V. Is that for one at a time, or both?
My back panel parts kit came with these:
F2AL250V - this one has dimples in both silver caps
and
GFE JET CQ 10A 250
If I need two, can I use two 3A 250 fuses? Can I use a 2.5A 250V and a 3A 250V?
My back panel parts kit came with these:
F2AL250V - this one has dimples in both silver caps
and
GFE JET CQ 10A 250
If I need two, can I use two 3A 250 fuses? Can I use a 2.5A 250V and a 3A 250V?
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You might want to view this video series where the builder tests the power supply followed with testing each channel separately before completing the entire assembly.
First Watt Aleph J Build (Introduction) - YouTube
First Watt Aleph J Build (Introduction) - YouTube