Crossover frequency is a very relative thing i suppose
To do a little bit of overlap definitely helps
Trying different setups and comparing sound
Dropbox - IMG_20201002_170552.jpg - Simplify your life
To use this method the new 15 inch drivers will have a bigger purpose and i like that.
It's a bummer that i have the dcx2496LE because i can't see that it can make any time alignment automatically
To do a little bit of overlap definitely helps
Trying different setups and comparing sound
Dropbox - IMG_20201002_170552.jpg - Simplify your life
To use this method the new 15 inch drivers will have a bigger purpose and i like that.
It's a bummer that i have the dcx2496LE because i can't see that it can make any time alignment automatically
Dropbox - IMG_20201002_223229.jpg - Simplify your life
I plan to get rich on this design...
Testbox might have improved the sound but Still, i adjusted and adjusted.
When i felt i had a ok sound the midrange was turned down so much it was almost silent.
Sounding it's best when it's turned off, hmmmm
I plan to get rich on this design...
Testbox might have improved the sound but Still, i adjusted and adjusted.
When i felt i had a ok sound the midrange was turned down so much it was almost silent.
Sounding it's best when it's turned off, hmmmm
Maybe an ill fated design.
If some speaker had to be nearly eliminated to sound good, something went wrong...
Btw, best midrange driver is WE 594. Full stop.
If some speaker had to be nearly eliminated to sound good, something went wrong...
Btw, best midrange driver is WE 594. Full stop.
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You need an audio analyzer like Rohde- Schwarz UPL or simply: a sweep function generator and an oszilloscope.
Thank you very much i am trying right now with an oscilloscope.
Hope to get the phace in order before i try any more drivers
Hope to get the phace in order before i try any more drivers
This just looks like a crossover filter to me, NOT an equalized response.
..if you are using almost no baffle for the driver then you'll have baffle step loss and the spl of the lower portion of the midrange will be to low in spl..
1. Do a model based on the baffle you are using to see the effect,
2. Strongly consider getting a measurement setup for freq. response (at a minimum) and preferably one that can measure acoustic phase.
If you use a PC, with a soundcard its possible to create many waveforms. You just need software.
I should also note that the "eq it like crazy" is normal with very little baffle - and given the *high-pass filter: NOT A PROBLEM.
*again, something near 300 Hz that's somewhat "steep" with a driver like this (that has decent linear excursion) and is in a sealed or ported cabinet.
Don't forget that you also have to contend with baffle-step loss from your woofer as well (relative to its baffle) - so that to will need eq..
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This why I suggested LinkWitz-Reilly dual cross over.
As each filter shifts phase by 180 degree's the outputs become back in phase with each other.
As each filter shifts phase by 180 degree's the outputs become back in phase with each other.
Wow, thats far beyound my theoretical knowledge altough having studied electronics. Never needed this for my speakers. Thats why I said, if you need this kind of stuff for making your speaker work, something has gone seriously wrong...
Sorry for the interruptions.
Sorry for the interruptions.
I take the easy way out with speakers and go full range drivers.
Saves money and weight with traditional LC crossovers.
Saves money and weight with traditional LC crossovers.
Yes i Will make a better test baffle today because it's too small.
But first ill make a model absolutely
Yes ill get My measurement equipment ☺️
I actually the removed the eq, ill apply EQ again once i have the other parameters under control
But first ill make a model absolutely
Yes ill get My measurement equipment ☺️
I actually the removed the eq, ill apply EQ again once i have the other parameters under control
@Dahlenmarcus
Just to recap.
You went from a small hifi system to a bigger PA system - but want to keep the same "type" of midrange sound?
You want to go fully active - but do you have all the hardware ?
You still need measuring equipment ?
Have you tried to measure and analyze the data before ?
Cant remember - how big is your room - 30 sqm ?
I'm simply trying to pick up on the basics here. I know it's super exciting to look for the best driver and talk specs. But I have been through that journey too, looking for the greatest driver. And did not really understood what to look for, cause I needed some very basic understanding of what different drivers do and how they interact and produce a complete sound image.
Maybe - just maybe. What you liked about the small Dali speaker. was the elevated tweeter, cause it's around 5dB higher than the midrange - on axis. To get them linear... you need to toe them in around 25 degrees. 5 dB level change between the tweeter and the midrange.... that is a huge difference in my view... worth looking into.
Just to recap.
You went from a small hifi system to a bigger PA system - but want to keep the same "type" of midrange sound?
You want to go fully active - but do you have all the hardware ?
You still need measuring equipment ?
Have you tried to measure and analyze the data before ?
Cant remember - how big is your room - 30 sqm ?
I'm simply trying to pick up on the basics here. I know it's super exciting to look for the best driver and talk specs. But I have been through that journey too, looking for the greatest driver. And did not really understood what to look for, cause I needed some very basic understanding of what different drivers do and how they interact and produce a complete sound image.
Maybe - just maybe. What you liked about the small Dali speaker. was the elevated tweeter, cause it's around 5dB higher than the midrange - on axis. To get them linear... you need to toe them in around 25 degrees. 5 dB level change between the tweeter and the midrange.... that is a huge difference in my view... worth looking into.
Good morning digitalthor
A recap is probably a Good thing at this point
You went from a small hifi system to a bigger PA system - but want to keep the same "type" of midrange sound?
The system that i used till recently i bought in a store and i was actually starting to get annoyed with it.
To much vocal sound and a subwoofer that was impossible to callibrate.
My reference sound is a SVS speaker called prime tower. It's the best sounding complete speaker that i heard.
I would like an adjustable sound and of course alot more weight power and warmer sound.
Also a Little more detail
I dont know if i would call this a PA system
You want to go fully active - but do you have all the hardware ?
Yes i have all the hardware, exept for the analyzing tools.
And midrange driver
You still need measuring equipment ?
Have you tried to measure and analyze the data before ?
I suppose i do, i am trying to learn about it now
Cant remember - how big is your room - 30 sqm ?
Yes 30sqm
I'm simply trying to pick up on the basics here. I know it's super exciting to look for the best driver and talk specs. But I have been through that journey too, looking for the greatest driver. And did not really understood what to look for, cause I needed some very basic understanding of what different drivers do and how they interact and produce a complete sound image.
Maybe - just maybe. What you liked about the small Dali speaker. was the elevated tweeter, cause it's around 5dB higher than the midrange - on axis. To get them linear... you need to toe them in around 25 degrees. 5 dB level change between the tweeter and the midrange.... that is a huge difference in my view... worth looking into.
I learned so much from this discussion already.
And i think using an active system allowed me to learn even more just by trying different settings.
I definitely missed out some basics.
I do like and elevated Tweeter but i am very sensitive to shouty sound
Very Good points, the Dali speakers sound pretty good when i i plug them in to the Active system but not so much before that. Too much midrange i believe
A recap is probably a Good thing at this point
You went from a small hifi system to a bigger PA system - but want to keep the same "type" of midrange sound?
The system that i used till recently i bought in a store and i was actually starting to get annoyed with it.
To much vocal sound and a subwoofer that was impossible to callibrate.
My reference sound is a SVS speaker called prime tower. It's the best sounding complete speaker that i heard.
I would like an adjustable sound and of course alot more weight power and warmer sound.
Also a Little more detail
I dont know if i would call this a PA system
You want to go fully active - but do you have all the hardware ?
Yes i have all the hardware, exept for the analyzing tools.
And midrange driver
You still need measuring equipment ?
Have you tried to measure and analyze the data before ?
I suppose i do, i am trying to learn about it now
Cant remember - how big is your room - 30 sqm ?
Yes 30sqm
I'm simply trying to pick up on the basics here. I know it's super exciting to look for the best driver and talk specs. But I have been through that journey too, looking for the greatest driver. And did not really understood what to look for, cause I needed some very basic understanding of what different drivers do and how they interact and produce a complete sound image.
Maybe - just maybe. What you liked about the small Dali speaker. was the elevated tweeter, cause it's around 5dB higher than the midrange - on axis. To get them linear... you need to toe them in around 25 degrees. 5 dB level change between the tweeter and the midrange.... that is a huge difference in my view... worth looking into.
I learned so much from this discussion already.
And i think using an active system allowed me to learn even more just by trying different settings.
I definitely missed out some basics.
I do like and elevated Tweeter but i am very sensitive to shouty sound
Very Good points, the Dali speakers sound pretty good when i i plug them in to the Active system but not so much before that. Too much midrange i believe