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DIY TDA1541A PCB "D3"

Would you like a through hole version of the D3?

  • Yes

    Votes: 12 52.2%
  • Maybe, depends on the performance

    Votes: 11 47.8%

  • Total voters
    23
  • Poll closed .
Hi pistollero,

I wont be designing a new board at this stage, just a new small revisions of the original D3 PCB, such as resizing a few small footprints to make them easier to solder, but I wont be altering the layout.

Hi Ryanj,

I have your pcb from the last batch and am planning to start this project soon. If I’m reading your above statement correctly, there will not be any technical “improvements” with the current GB pcb and performance will be the same with the board I have?

Thanks 😉
 
Hi Ryanj,

I have your pcb from the last batch and am planning to start this project soon. If I’m reading your above statement correctly, there will not be any technical “improvements” with the current GB pcb and performance will be the same with the board I have?

Thanks 😉
Hi vunce,

I started changing the design of the D3 pcb but decided i will not go ahead with any change and keep the design as is, because i soon realised that a redesign would require me to make another test board to make sure every thing is working ok and i dont have the time or money to go through that again - its a lot of work, i think it took me around 200+ hours in simulations, testing circuits with 3 test pcbs to get to this point. The current design works very well you just need to take special care of the soldering for the sot23 footprints as test the main power supply section before going ahead with populating the rest of the board.
 
I’m ready to start my D3 journey! I’ve 95% of the parts in hand, this bom was a bit tricky because multiple suppliers were needed to source all the components.
But, now I’m concerned I somehow missed a bunch of information how to feed a signal to this board? I have an I2SoverUSB module, but that will not connect via the Hirose RF connections on the D3 Dac board.
Can the I2SoverUSB feed the D3 directly with customized cabling or do I need additional components? 😕
 
If it’s the Jlsounds board (that’s what I remember you buying), then you can use it to feed the D3 directly, spliced one one side, Hirose on the other. Also, the Jl board can feed simultaneous data to the TDA1541. therefore, you don’t need any other hardware but hirose SMD cables.

When you populate the D3, please follow Ryan’s suggestions and install the Vregs first, then test voltages WITH a load present. Once voltages look good, then proceed. Only proceed when you have got the voltages correct, this is critical. Do not just populate the board!

Look back at my or Ryan’s post for the sequence. This isn’t a hard build but it does require a stepwise process.

Use low temp solder paste, and get extra Vregs, as they damage easily.

Cheers,

Greg
 
I’ve soldered wires directly to those inputs then Used a bit of hot glue to help with strain relief To make sure the wire (or the whole pad) Doesn’t tear off as I was moving things around.

Those hi-rose connectors are lovely and all but the connecting wires ain’t cheap! And if you are trying to connect to something that does not use the same on the other end then that is a problem (I’ve never checkEd to learn if you can get this hirose interconnects with one end with no terminal)

I’m ready to start my D3 journey! I’ve 95% of the parts in hand, this bom was a bit tricky because multiple suppliers were needed to source all the components.
But, now I’m concerned I somehow missed a bunch of information how to feed a signal to this board? I have an I2SoverUSB module, but that will not connect via the Hirose RF connections on the D3 Dac board.
Can the I2SoverUSB feed the D3 directly with customized cabling or do I need additional components? 😕
 
.....Those hi-rose connectors are lovely and all but the connecting wires ain’t cheap! And if you are trying to connect to something that does not use the same on the other end then that is a problem (I’ve never checkEd to learn if you can get this hirose interconnects with one end with no terminal)

I agree, once I cut and terminate one end of the U.fl cable it defeats any benefit of using the cable. I will dig in and look for an elegant solution......