Larry,
Your speakers look great. Is this the new version of the driver that you used?
SB Acoustics SB12MNRX2-25-04, 4" midrange. 4 ohm- New Version
If not, can you please post a link to the currently available version of the driver?
Thanks,
Clay
Your speakers look great. Is this the new version of the driver that you used?
SB Acoustics SB12MNRX2-25-04, 4" midrange. 4 ohm- New Version
If not, can you please post a link to the currently available version of the driver?
Thanks,
Clay
How do these sound with hard/prog rock or metal? I have a 12 ft X 16 ft room and I'm curious if these would work.
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
they will play loud enough but i suspect that if, like me, you grew up with heavy metal playing out of AR38’s with big woofers, that you’d feel more at home with a 2-way or 3-way.
I'm in the midst of completing pair right now. They'll do quite well if you supply them with enough disciplined power with a high-ish damping factor. I'm driving mine with a modified Dynaco ST-70 and they tear the house down, relatively speaking (and the room size is larger too at 17' x 26' with a 16' high ceiling).
But on the whole, Bigun is right; if what you're after is a pair of speakers that'll deliver an all-out onslaught then a pair of 2- or 3-ways would likely be a better bet.
If you can with wood floorboards and have a detached house. I would build underfloor loaded speakers which I did the bass was phenominal and the floorboards vibrated. Best bass ever. Had to stop using them as next doors saucers fell off the shelves. used a 10 inch speaker, cut a hole in the floorboard and placed the speaker onto the wall , 3 sided one about 36 x 16 x 6 inches in size- best ever bass.!!!!
that is exceptionally flat between 300 and 3k Hz, I am sure this is nice mid range, not too expensive
Thank you. I had some help from a cabinet maker who cut the side panels in a CNC machine. I'm very happy with the result!
Attaching a couple of pictures of the back side. I painted the 45 degree pieces blue as a little flourish
No one ever sees that though, but I thought it was a nice touch. I'm planning on changing the driver mounting screws to black ones when I have the time.Attachments
This type of music is what these speakers do best in my opinion. Especially extreme metal (Behemoth for example) sounds awesome! The bass is powerful but extremely fast and everything is well integrated, leading to a mighty experience that isn't like the typical muddy wall-of-sound most speakers produce when playing death metal. They also sound their best when played fairly loud, which is perfect for metal of course.
There is certainly some truth in what Bigun says, but I fear that the extra impact of large woofers would come at the expense of overall coherence. Your room is a bit on the small side, ideally it should be larger I think. My room is about 30 square meters and I'd still like it to be a bit larger. I've had them in a smaller room though and it still sounded good.
This is a long shot, but in case you're in Sweden you can listen to Quali-fi speakers (which are very similar, big horns with Mark Audio drivers) at Rehifi. Check them out at rehifi.se, tons of awesome stuff!
Trapezoidal Onken for Lowther PM6A. Thanks to David Dlugos of Planet 10 HiFi for the bespoke design. 18mm Baltic Birch plywood, solid red oak vent spacers. Finished with 12 coats of amber shellac and a top coat blend of orange oil, beeswax, and carnauba wax. I've only listened for a couple hours so far but they sound superb.
Also pictured are mFonkens for Fostex FE103Sol and MarkAudio Alpair 10P.
Those interested in more pics as well as thoughts on build process and creativity can follow me at Instagram: @boisetverre.
Edit: For some reason a few of the thumbnails appear sideways, but they correct when you click to open the larger version.
Also pictured are mFonkens for Fostex FE103Sol and MarkAudio Alpair 10P.
Those interested in more pics as well as thoughts on build process and creativity can follow me at Instagram: @boisetverre.
Edit: For some reason a few of the thumbnails appear sideways, but they correct when you click to open the larger version.
Attachments
Last edited:
Thanks! The A10P are powered either by a breadboarded WE91A or a triode-wired SE amp that can run either 7C5 (loctal 6V6GT) or 6L6 output tubes. Input on that one is 6SJ7 in pentode. My favorite combo is with a pair of early black metal RCA 6L6 and a pair of black metal RCA 6SJ7s from the 1940s.
Bass from the A10P in the trapezoidal Onken is excellent. It goes surprisingly low. It really is an excellent design, and I recommend purchasing the paid planset from Planet 10.
Here’s the build thread:
Mar-Ken10pwTT Build
The 7C5/6L6 amp puts out about 1.5 Watts. I also built a version of the “Darling” 1626 amp thst about out about 3/4 watt. Both are fine for A10P in the trapezoidal Onken. I’ve also used SE 300B amps capable of 4.5 watts and 8 Watts, which had more than enough power.
Here’s the build thread:
Mar-Ken10pwTT Build
The 7C5/6L6 amp puts out about 1.5 Watts. I also built a version of the “Darling” 1626 amp thst about out about 3/4 watt. Both are fine for A10P in the trapezoidal Onken. I’ve also used SE 300B amps capable of 4.5 watts and 8 Watts, which had more than enough power.
Last edited:
Boombox
Now for something a little different - my quick summer project (one of many)
Decided that I need a portable boombox but didn't want any plastic shite so wanted to build my own. Quick google revealed that building from ground up the electronics part with batteries, charging, ports, amps etc would be too much for a quick fun project.
So in comes JBL Go 2 which had pretty good specs. Amp power 3W (questionable) and battery time 5-6 hours and BT / 3.5mm connections. Perfect.
Next thing I needed was a sensitive full range that would fit into something small, didn't want a barrel sized thing (for now) so Monacor SP-60 had pretty good specs. Fs 65hz and sensitivity 89db - Perfect.
They met each other in a 180x160x120mm enclosure (first prototype was bigger) made out of 12mm birch ply. Top part is veneered, sides painted with super-matte black. The JBL is attached to a shaped cutout so it's even removable later if needed.
Really happy with the end result, it's been playing almost daily now. Only thing that's wondering is the mid-range droop - is it coming from the amp, enclosure or element?
Now for something a little different - my quick summer project (one of many)
Decided that I need a portable boombox but didn't want any plastic shite so wanted to build my own. Quick google revealed that building from ground up the electronics part with batteries, charging, ports, amps etc would be too much for a quick fun project.
So in comes JBL Go 2 which had pretty good specs. Amp power 3W (questionable) and battery time 5-6 hours and BT / 3.5mm connections. Perfect.
Next thing I needed was a sensitive full range that would fit into something small, didn't want a barrel sized thing (for now) so Monacor SP-60 had pretty good specs. Fs 65hz and sensitivity 89db - Perfect.
They met each other in a 180x160x120mm enclosure (first prototype was bigger) made out of 12mm birch ply. Top part is veneered, sides painted with super-matte black. The JBL is attached to a shaped cutout so it's even removable later if needed.
Really happy with the end result, it's been playing almost daily now. Only thing that's wondering is the mid-range droop - is it coming from the amp, enclosure or element?
Attachments
The mid-range droop is likely coming from the amplifier. Attenuation like that in that area usually makes it easier to listen to.
The rising around 10 kHz is probably a little harsh sounding. The amp is likely responsible for that as well. The original speaker intended for use with that amp may have needed a boost in that region. However, the measurements I found on this page show a breakup on the SP-60, but not with such peaks.
MONACOR SP-60 - 4" Mid-range
My guess is that the amplifier shapes the response as you have shown. Do you have a different amplifier to use for measurements?
That's my guess as well - the original peasized speaker likely needed EQ. Not a big issue as it's easy to fix up the response with the phone equaliser, another good thing about measurements.
Next time I'll make it ~7 litres for best bass, should reach some 60hz notes with decent volume. The mini amp can't overload it luckily.
Next time I'll make it ~7 litres for best bass, should reach some 60hz notes with decent volume. The mini amp can't overload it luckily.
Last edited by a moderator: