Hi yes you can with a new group buy. Fill out this form. I already have PCB's but not all the parts so expect sometime end July.
So... my fully built kit is finally alive and running into my Pink Triangle LPT. Thx!!!
It worked first time, once I had procured the isolation transformer for testing. Platter rotation going fine and not currently using the speed feedback - it does not look quite right on top of the shiny LPT top plate...and the construction provides no way for sensing underneath the platter.
I will be needing to put iit nto an external case, there is hardly any room under an LPT top plate. Have not decided which route to take yet - but I could find a way to get the existing LPT power switch to do the power to the controller. So a multi way plug going to be needed. Might use the Hammond case that was mentioned a long way back. I want something quite smart, actually the space around the turntable is not that generous so a case that works positioned on its side would be a good choice.
No music yet - have been without a cartridge for the RB300 arm. I have a Denon DL110 on order, hopefully later this week.
It worked first time, once I had procured the isolation transformer for testing. Platter rotation going fine and not currently using the speed feedback - it does not look quite right on top of the shiny LPT top plate...and the construction provides no way for sensing underneath the platter.
I will be needing to put iit nto an external case, there is hardly any room under an LPT top plate. Have not decided which route to take yet - but I could find a way to get the existing LPT power switch to do the power to the controller. So a multi way plug going to be needed. Might use the Hammond case that was mentioned a long way back. I want something quite smart, actually the space around the turntable is not that generous so a case that works positioned on its side would be a good choice.
No music yet - have been without a cartridge for the RB300 arm. I have a Denon DL110 on order, hopefully later this week.
Hi Jensen, that's great - I am glad you got it working first time. What's the clearance underneath the platter? If its >20mm you could probably use the internal sensor option. Hope you enjoy it. It would be interesting to see if the Pink triangle sees a speed accuracy improvement when PID is switched on. (I usually see a big improvement on LP12's).
Another one lives!!! Well actually two....one on a Townshend Rock Mk2 and another on my OL Oasis 33rpm only prototype thingy. Both motors remain nice and quiet which of course was shattered by playing the 12" of 'I Travel' - just because i could - and without ANY faff for once.
It's displaced my DIY Geddon on the OL so I'll have to find another use for that somewhere.
I was wondering if I should have got a kit but so glad I didn't as the quality of finish is lovely and surpasses my own efforts. Now I get the fun bit of trying to fit one under the OL platter, I'll have to see if P1 or the FCC is the better route.
Many thanks for all the work you've put in on this, it's something I've looked at particularly for the OL which has always been single speed since I built it in the 90's.
It's displaced my DIY Geddon on the OL so I'll have to find another use for that somewhere.
I was wondering if I should have got a kit but so glad I didn't as the quality of finish is lovely and surpasses my own efforts. Now I get the fun bit of trying to fit one under the OL platter, I'll have to see if P1 or the FCC is the better route.
Many thanks for all the work you've put in on this, it's something I've looked at particularly for the OL which has always been single speed since I built it in the 90's.
Why don't you substitute the optical sensor for a Hall effect sensor. These are very thin and just need a small
magnet . You can solder and connect to P1. You will need to disconnect the optical sensor though.
magnet . You can solder and connect to P1. You will need to disconnect the optical sensor though.
Hi guys,
I do have a Ariston RD40 with original motor.
As a stupid question, I presume the controller is compatible with the motor. From what I read on different forums, it seems to be 2 phase synchronous motor.
Also I'm comfortable with electronics and soldering SMD.
If I order the PCB and pars, will I receive the schematics as well and how to adjust it ?
Thank you
I do have a Ariston RD40 with original motor.
As a stupid question, I presume the controller is compatible with the motor. From what I read on different forums, it seems to be 2 phase synchronous motor.
Also I'm comfortable with electronics and soldering SMD.
If I order the PCB and pars, will I receive the schematics as well and how to adjust it ?
Thank you
Can you compare the Zeus to the 'Geddon?
Jimmy, are you saying Steve's Zeus controller sounded better on your OL than your DIY Geddon? I'd be interested to hear any comparisons you care to make!
I'm curious, as I've collected the main parts needed to create my own 'Geddon clone here in the states. (A "60-Hz" modded motor/pulley to match U.S. grid power, an insanely large torroid, etc). My enthusiasm for the project has waxed and waned as I hit some technical mismatches, and I'm trying to decide whether to just sell the parts and move on.
I'm running a Linn LP-12 TT, if that's worth adding. BTW, I've gone through three different Valhalla boards in the last 10 years, due to overheating ... and one failed attempt to recap a board (very easy to tear out a trace, unfortunately). All the more reason this project is so exciting!
-Paul
Jimmy, are you saying Steve's Zeus controller sounded better on your OL than your DIY Geddon? I'd be interested to hear any comparisons you care to make!
I'm curious, as I've collected the main parts needed to create my own 'Geddon clone here in the states. (A "60-Hz" modded motor/pulley to match U.S. grid power, an insanely large torroid, etc). My enthusiasm for the project has waxed and waned as I hit some technical mismatches, and I'm trying to decide whether to just sell the parts and move on.
I'm running a Linn LP-12 TT, if that's worth adding. BTW, I've gone through three different Valhalla boards in the last 10 years, due to overheating ... and one failed attempt to recap a board (very easy to tear out a trace, unfortunately). All the more reason this project is so exciting!
-Paul
As long as your motor is a 2 phase synchronous motor 50/60Hz operating in the range 12v-110v <20mA you will be fine. Many turntables use these kinds of motors. Yes to your second question. Full manual and schematics supplied. There is a link a couple of posts back to the 2nd Group Buy. End July probable GB despatch date. (Once I have recovered from 1st GB 
)
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I haven't done that direct comparison but was thinking of trying a temporary switchable arrangement just for fun. In reality I haven't seen any change in the vibrations/noise from the motor (using the sensors in my phone which is the best I have), which, due to the motor on the OL being mounted on the subchassis along with arm and bearing, is the main factor with this turntable.
So far the biggest plus is the ability to play 45rpm records on the OL which since it was built has been 33rpm only.
Hello to all.
Finally installed the Zeus Motor Controller Board into my LP12 ' been waiting for some standoffs to arrive'.
Did all that was requested in the instructions and it worked first time,brilliant!
Had to alter a couple of parameters i.e. The board came set with KP 0.4000. Ki 0.3100 and Kd 0.1910.
I use a LP12 so set the values to KP 0.25 Ki 0.25 Kd 0.191 as Steve quoted in the manual.
I've had a look through the PID settings and not altered anything as of yet,I'll go through them when the turntable is in situ as it's sitting on a Workmate bench at the mo!
The PID settings and adjusting them seemed a bit daunting at first but quite easy to do really!
The turntable is running at 33.333/334. Excellent!
A fine job Steve! First class!
It took me longer to set the turntable up than getting the Controller up and running!
Just one little glitch and it had nothing to do with the Controller.
I initially tried to run the PID programme using Windows 7 but alas it wouldn't run so switched to a Windows 10 machine and hey presto! it worked.
I'll probably buy some double sided adhesive tape to secure the display housing to the plinth,making it more secure.
Well pleased with the results.
Regards
Ray
Finally installed the Zeus Motor Controller Board into my LP12 ' been waiting for some standoffs to arrive'.
Did all that was requested in the instructions and it worked first time,brilliant!
Had to alter a couple of parameters i.e. The board came set with KP 0.4000. Ki 0.3100 and Kd 0.1910.
I use a LP12 so set the values to KP 0.25 Ki 0.25 Kd 0.191 as Steve quoted in the manual.
I've had a look through the PID settings and not altered anything as of yet,I'll go through them when the turntable is in situ as it's sitting on a Workmate bench at the mo!
The PID settings and adjusting them seemed a bit daunting at first but quite easy to do really!
The turntable is running at 33.333/334. Excellent!
A fine job Steve! First class!
It took me longer to set the turntable up than getting the Controller up and running!
Just one little glitch and it had nothing to do with the Controller.
I initially tried to run the PID programme using Windows 7 but alas it wouldn't run so switched to a Windows 10 machine and hey presto! it worked.
I'll probably buy some double sided adhesive tape to secure the display housing to the plinth,making it more secure.
Well pleased with the results.
Regards
Ray
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Hi All - first post here so be gentle with me!
As lockdown loomed large in front of me, I thought I'd restore my 80's vintage Rega Planar 3. After an overhaul and set-up, I tried it out and was happy overall but bothered by the background hum caused by motor vibration - i.e. physical, mechanical hum not an earthing problem type hum. A new suspension belt, RC network and even a new motor did not really help much. Then I found this forum!
I have since ordered and built Steve's very fine controller - partly in the hope of reducing this motor vibration and also to be able to run at 45rpm without faffing around moving the belt.
Initial impressions are very favourable:
I haven't built the plinth I'm working on yet, so I lashed-up a mock turntable to test things out. I mounted the motor rigidly to the board to amplify what vibration there might be. I then powered the motor first with the Rega original RC supply and then with the Zeus controller. Each time I listened with a screwdriver pressed between the board and my ear as a kind of crude stethoscope. The lack of hum with the Zeus controller is very noticeable – I would guestimate 6 – 10dB quieter.
I put a scope on the red and blue motor signals to see if there was any obvious difference – there was! I have tried to attach pictures of them along with my turntable lash-up but I click the 'upload' button and F all happens. (What am I doing wrong?)
Now working on a two-piece bamboo plinth to further isolate the motor and to house the Zeus controller.
Cheers,
John
As lockdown loomed large in front of me, I thought I'd restore my 80's vintage Rega Planar 3. After an overhaul and set-up, I tried it out and was happy overall but bothered by the background hum caused by motor vibration - i.e. physical, mechanical hum not an earthing problem type hum. A new suspension belt, RC network and even a new motor did not really help much. Then I found this forum!
I have since ordered and built Steve's very fine controller - partly in the hope of reducing this motor vibration and also to be able to run at 45rpm without faffing around moving the belt.
Initial impressions are very favourable:
I haven't built the plinth I'm working on yet, so I lashed-up a mock turntable to test things out. I mounted the motor rigidly to the board to amplify what vibration there might be. I then powered the motor first with the Rega original RC supply and then with the Zeus controller. Each time I listened with a screwdriver pressed between the board and my ear as a kind of crude stethoscope. The lack of hum with the Zeus controller is very noticeable – I would guestimate 6 – 10dB quieter.
I put a scope on the red and blue motor signals to see if there was any obvious difference – there was! I have tried to attach pictures of them along with my turntable lash-up but I click the 'upload' button and F all happens. (What am I doing wrong?)
Now working on a two-piece bamboo plinth to further isolate the motor and to house the Zeus controller.
Cheers,
John
So the last batch of Group Buy 1 boards and kits were shipped by June 23rd. The despatches over last few weeks should be arriving anytime soon. I hope everyone has a good experience. Let me know if you need any assistance and please post results. I would be interested in any custom values for the PID parameters. The Group Buy turned out to be far more work than expected due to all the Covid delay issues, so once again apologies it over ran. I now have time again to listen to music
Hi
I got my Zeus and got it up and running. It is a little special case as this is a Lenco L75. The motor is a 1 phase shaded pole and needs a lot of power, so I had to use an amplifier and use the op1 to get the drive out from the controller board to the amplifier.
I haven't read every single page of the 70 pages long manual, but I don't think it is mentioned that there are a DC component on the OP1 output, so you have to put a capacitor in series with the signal. Also I had some HF noise on the ~ 50 Hz so I placed a low pass RC filter there too. My amp driving a transformator was not happy with the HF noise. Now it works. But I wanted to integrate the start button and O-led display into the plint (the sensor will be inside the platter) and I managed to ruin the O-led display (stupid me) in the process. Now I can source the same o-led display, but I was wondering if I could use a bigger one. I would like , partly because of high age, to have bigger characters than the ones in the O-led display that comes with the kit.
Can you point me to a source and a name/number of such a display, please--
I got my Zeus and got it up and running. It is a little special case as this is a Lenco L75. The motor is a 1 phase shaded pole and needs a lot of power, so I had to use an amplifier and use the op1 to get the drive out from the controller board to the amplifier.
I haven't read every single page of the 70 pages long manual, but I don't think it is mentioned that there are a DC component on the OP1 output, so you have to put a capacitor in series with the signal. Also I had some HF noise on the ~ 50 Hz so I placed a low pass RC filter there too. My amp driving a transformator was not happy with the HF noise. Now it works. But I wanted to integrate the start button and O-led display into the plint (the sensor will be inside the platter) and I managed to ruin the O-led display (stupid me) in the process. Now I can source the same o-led display, but I was wondering if I could use a bigger one. I would like , partly because of high age, to have bigger characters than the ones in the O-led display that comes with the kit.
Can you point me to a source and a name/number of such a display, please--