Good work Steve!
Just one question I wish to pose, and that is, you have revised the boards a few times since the GB was first started, the last one to accommodate the new Linn Karousel bearing for the Linn LP12. Can I assume that the first group buy will not feature this new revision?
Regards
Ray
Just one question I wish to pose, and that is, you have revised the boards a few times since the GB was first started, the last one to accommodate the new Linn Karousel bearing for the Linn LP12. Can I assume that the first group buy will not feature this new revision?
Regards
Ray
Hi Raymond, depends which batch your PCB comes from. As you recall one batch went missing and then got delivered (The original smaller hole batch). Where I can I will try and ensure LP12 users get the larger bearing hole but this is not guaranteed. One member paid for a special interim batch to be re-run with the larger hole so it's only where spares are available.
My attic room is now full of kits and assembled PCB's - no space to move. 😱
My attic room is now full of kits and assembled PCB's - no space to move. 😱
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Thanks Steve for the info.
Fully understood.
Stay safe and don't get lost in the attic!
Regards
Ray
Fully understood.
Stay safe and don't get lost in the attic!
Regards
Ray
Hi Steve,
Am I supposed to wait for you to complete the kit as you have not prompted me to pay the outstanding?
Am I supposed to wait for you to complete the kit as you have not prompted me to pay the outstanding?
Yes the reminders will be sent a few days ahead of when your GB is due to be shipped. The exact timing depends where each individual is in the list but hopefully within next 14 days barring any unforeseen circumstances.
Despatch Updates
Hi Everyone,
so the first batch of boards/kits were packaged ready to go to the post office Monday AM. The remainder should go next weekend. Everybody should have had a payment reminder for the balances by now. If not please send me a PM. Also if you think you have a board/kit on order and have not had a PayPal invoice again please send me a PM.
All kits/boards ship with the external sensor platter option (as originally described) as the orders were getting complicated with too many options.
I hope you enjoy them and apologies that timescales got a bit stretched. I had major issues with parts/PCB logistics due to Covid-19.
Hi Everyone,
so the first batch of boards/kits were packaged ready to go to the post office Monday AM. The remainder should go next weekend. Everybody should have had a payment reminder for the balances by now. If not please send me a PM. Also if you think you have a board/kit on order and have not had a PayPal invoice again please send me a PM.
All kits/boards ship with the external sensor platter option (as originally described) as the orders were getting complicated with too many options.
I hope you enjoy them and apologies that timescales got a bit stretched. I had major issues with parts/PCB logistics due to Covid-19.
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I had the good fortune of getting one of the advance kits from Steve. My version was a bare PCB with all parts to fit. I was initially a little daunted by some of the SMD soldering as I had only ever fitted a few such devices in the past. However, by careful adherence to Steve's build guide and taking my time I got it to work first time.
I did use a desk mounted magnifier to see what I was doing for the SMD soldering and an ancient oscilloscope to check the sine waves at the relevant test points. The guide allows you to test at various stages and this was really helpful.
I have give Steve feedback on the build guide as there were a few places where I felt confused and needed clarification as I did not want to damage anything.
I have ordered some more cabling in order to fit the IR sensor, but I am typing this listening to music on my LP12.
Many thanks for all your work Steve.
Cheers
Ian
I did use a desk mounted magnifier to see what I was doing for the SMD soldering and an ancient oscilloscope to check the sine waves at the relevant test points. The guide allows you to test at various stages and this was really helpful.
I have give Steve feedback on the build guide as there were a few places where I felt confused and needed clarification as I did not want to damage anything.
I have ordered some more cabling in order to fit the IR sensor, but I am typing this listening to music on my LP12.
Many thanks for all your work Steve.
Cheers
Ian
I got the email with the link for the documentation on this project this morning.
I was able to access and download it to my iPhone with no problems.
I glanced over the document briefly. I have to say, Steve really set a new benchmark.
I’ve not experienced such extensive and well organized documentation like this on a DIY project before.
Kudos to Steve. Thank you for all the hard work you put in.
I was able to access and download it to my iPhone with no problems.
I glanced over the document briefly. I have to say, Steve really set a new benchmark.
I’ve not experienced such extensive and well organized documentation like this on a DIY project before.
Kudos to Steve. Thank you for all the hard work you put in.
I totally agree with everything you have said chromenuts!
Absolutely brilliant Steve.
Received my full built board this afternoon...Really a fabulous job Steve, very professional indeed. Hopefully fitting it this weekend.
It does look like I missed a trick though. The instructions (again, an outstanding piece of work), talks about the "FFC Header PCB" for mounting the IR detector inside the LP12's platter. Are these available at all, or is it a thing I could buy from RS say?
Again, the quality of the PCB and documentation is fabulous,
Ta.
It does look like I missed a trick though. The instructions (again, an outstanding piece of work), talks about the "FFC Header PCB" for mounting the IR detector inside the LP12's platter. Are these available at all, or is it a thing I could buy from RS say?
Again, the quality of the PCB and documentation is fabulous,
Ta.
Hi Chiily.
I too am interested in obtaining the FFC Header for mounting the IR detector inside the LP12's platter.
Perhaps Steve can advise.
Regards
Ray
Right. So I added the Internal Sensor as an option, as a revision but after the Group Buy started. I did not include in final kits/boards for several reasons. 1. Extra FFC connectors need to be soldered onto P3 (4 pin) and 2. I stupidly missed a 0V connection off pin 3 of P3 on the PCB. I have described how to fix that in the errata in the manual. 3. Extra 3D printed parts are required to hold the sensor safely. 4. Extra FFC and converter sub PCB's were required.
Given all of the above and working out who would want them/would not want them started to make logistics very complicated and increased cost. I did start to add P3 to some boards but stopped due to a shortage of 4 pin FFC connectors and having to fix the 0V issue. So I abandoned it for the GB as the option was not included originally.
That being said, I do now have some 4 way FFC connectors and cables plus adaptor PCB's and could print some cases.
If you are happy to hand solder P3 on the board (or if you are lucky and get one already on board and perform the errata fix) then I am happy to send out if you cover postage & parts cost. Send me a PM.
There is a way to avoid messing with FFC cables and that's to use the 10 pin 0.1" header P1. All the signals for sensors/switches/OLED are there too. It's much easier to DIY to that connection.
Given all of the above and working out who would want them/would not want them started to make logistics very complicated and increased cost. I did start to add P3 to some boards but stopped due to a shortage of 4 pin FFC connectors and having to fix the 0V issue. So I abandoned it for the GB as the option was not included originally.
That being said, I do now have some 4 way FFC connectors and cables plus adaptor PCB's and could print some cases.
If you are happy to hand solder P3 on the board (or if you are lucky and get one already on board and perform the errata fix) then I am happy to send out if you cover postage & parts cost. Send me a PM.
There is a way to avoid messing with FFC cables and that's to use the 10 pin 0.1" header P1. All the signals for sensors/switches/OLED are there too. It's much easier to DIY to that connection.
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