As nas3000 says, should be no problem to fold this way, although I would not do the rounded internal corners you show. Do it like nas3000 drew it, with square inside corners. This keeps the overall internal volume the same no matter how you fold it, as long as you keep the length the same, measured along a line drawn at the middle of the profile, with square corners.
Someone who understands this more than me can correct me if I'm wrong, but I have read elsewhere on this forum that rounding the inside corners of a TL is detrimental, and by my calculations, as I said, it changes the internal volume from that of a straight line of the same length.
If you are building a TABAQ with the 3FE25, check out my build thread here:
TABAQ with FaitalPro 3FE22
Bjorn made a slightly modified sim specially for the 3FE22, and I drew it into a nice bookshelf form factor. I have since used the 3FE25 in the same enclosure and it sounds identical. A really impressive speaker.
My Tabaq M4 build, with TB W4 1337 SDF
Hi guys,
I used to look regularly at this thread, and also was curious of the sound of the Titanium 4" large band from Tang Band. So I launched myselft and built a Tabaq, using the latest simulations from Bjorn Johannesen.
You can see the result on the enclosed photos, and also I made a blog to get more details, and the plans (I changed calculations to use 16mm MDF instead of 12mm).
Fireside Tabaq box << Blog Galactique
I called it "Fireside", because it is the name of a Danish Tobacco mix from the 80' ...
On the blog you will find an attempt to give better listening impressions of the result : a virtual A/B listening comparison between the original signal and the signal recorded from the loudspeaker boxes.
Let me know if you like it
I also measured a bit, but my equipment is very very basic, so I'm not sure of the result (although measures I have seen in this thread confirm that 4" drivers from T.B. can reach 50Hz with the Tabaq design).
Have fun Doing It Yourselves (as much as I did) !
Hi guys,
I used to look regularly at this thread, and also was curious of the sound of the Titanium 4" large band from Tang Band. So I launched myselft and built a Tabaq, using the latest simulations from Bjorn Johannesen.
You can see the result on the enclosed photos, and also I made a blog to get more details, and the plans (I changed calculations to use 16mm MDF instead of 12mm).
Fireside Tabaq box << Blog Galactique
I called it "Fireside", because it is the name of a Danish Tobacco mix from the 80' ...
On the blog you will find an attempt to give better listening impressions of the result : a virtual A/B listening comparison between the original signal and the signal recorded from the loudspeaker boxes.
Let me know if you like it
I also measured a bit, but my equipment is very very basic, so I'm not sure of the result (although measures I have seen in this thread confirm that 4" drivers from T.B. can reach 50Hz with the Tabaq design).
Have fun Doing It Yourselves (as much as I did) !
Tabaq with W4-1320SB
Thanks to this thread I dug an old pair of W4-1320SB drivers out of my garage. I bought them 10+ years ago intending to make a set of "bandits," but never did. Glad I waited because I really enjoy these Tabaqs. They punch far above their driver size! In the attached images you can see the raw in-box measurement and a measurement with BSC circuit installed at ~1 meter (SPL not calibrated). I used 1/2" MDF, parts-express walnut veneer, and finished with some wipe-on poly. I enjoy seeing all the varied Tabaq finished products here, so thought I'd share mine too. Thanks again!
Thanks to this thread I dug an old pair of W4-1320SB drivers out of my garage. I bought them 10+ years ago intending to make a set of "bandits," but never did. Glad I waited because I really enjoy these Tabaqs. They punch far above their driver size! In the attached images you can see the raw in-box measurement and a measurement with BSC circuit installed at ~1 meter (SPL not calibrated). I used 1/2" MDF, parts-express walnut veneer, and finished with some wipe-on poly. I enjoy seeing all the varied Tabaq finished products here, so thought I'd share mine too. Thanks again!
Attachments
Got a question for the woodwork guru. My circular saw was overheated and warped causing it to cut to one side and took off quite abit from my board. Now I am just wondering what I can use to fill the gap with before painting the speakers. Would putty works or is there something else?
Thanks
Thanks
that's quite a large gap you have to fill... not sure. If you later paint it in solid color, you may try woodpaste but I'm unsure if such a large layer would be possible. Another option would be a passage on a router bit to enlarge the location to a regular section, and then cutting some wood to fill the place exactly, with sanding and filler after it. If you have the tools most probably the easiest approach.
I always putty any rough edges and dents in my speakers before painting. Unfortunately my ISP is blocking your pics, so I can't see if you have just dents, or if your gap opens right into the interior of the box. If it does, it would seal it up with hot glue, and then putty to smooth the surface if needed. If you can access the inside of the gap seal that with hot glue as well...
For my boat foils I'm using a two-component filler that is as well used by car repair shops. I get it in small quantities from my boat shipyard. It's easy to use, can be sanded well, and is surprinsingly robust to sand and paint thereafter. The references are Nexa Autocolor P565 - 5301 with apprêt garnissant HS+ blanc SG01, proportion : 5 / 1 in volume. Don't ask me wehere to get it though. Seems it's a french product that my boatyard buys somewhere.
Got a question for the woodwork guru. My circular saw was overheated and warped causing it to cut to one side and took off quite abit from my board. Now I am just wondering what I can use to fill the gap with before painting the speakers. Would putty works or is there something else?
Thanks
Ouch, that is very ugly
Options:
1. Fill it with any cheap construction glue, it may be called "caulk" in English, when it dries - see for cracks and repeat. Then grind, for fine-grinding PVA glue is ok. Yes putty may work too, depending on it. Also, dont try to fill everything at once, it looks like 2-3 step process.
2. Get small piece of wood (cardboard, plywood etc.) of the similar thickness and glue together.
No, offense, but this full of glue and plastic material is the worst for speakers and the one of worst for your saw. You are lucky not being hurt. Next time get at least MDF it is cheap.
Luigiman, I just looked at your 3fe22 tabaq build thread - it is modified a lot!!! Not even tabaq-like anymore. Only 96cm2 crosssection and much less bass, is it correct? Or did you try to build another bigger box for the same driver?
Roughly 75% finished with the build, it occurs to me that one way to build would have been to mitre lengths with a 45 degree edge. When ready to glue box together, just use painter’s tape to hold together for perfect square. There’s videos on the internet how to use painter’s tape to glue a box. Sure, that involves the front being one piece and you would have to use jigsaw to cut port (measurements would change too).
Bjorn made me a sim specific to the driver, and that is what he found simmed well in the MJK sheets for the 3FE22. Yes, it's changed a lot from the standard TABAQ, I think because the Fs of the FaitalPro driver is higher than most of the Tang Band drivers, so he couldn't get as much bass from it. But the TABAQ design is just an MLTL, and so is my design...
My speakers do still put out a surprising amount of bass, useful output down to just below 70Hz
Hi all!
Playing around in my head with the TABAQ-design. Looking at Kvart & Bolge I like the curved side, and I'm intrigued on trying to build something that isn't a standard rectangular box.
I found that xrk971 have made a TABAQ with curved sides earlier in this thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/88787-tabaq-tl-tang-band-119.html#post4556798
Are there more examples?
To redesign, can I change the cross section geometri as long as I maintain the cross section area?
As I understand it, TABAQ is a MLTL design, which means that the "stuffed part" is similar to the box in a bass reflex enclosure, and the "no stuffed part" is part of the port. Probably not correct description, but a rough simplification that is not that off? Does this then mean, when redesign the geometri, that in the stuffed part the importance is to maintain the volume, and in the no stuffed part the importance is both volume and length?
Is bracings ok in the stuffed area but a no-no in the no stuffed area? (This is my assumption)
The port I assume is as usual - cross area and length must be maintained. And I also assume that it must be in the very bottom. Correct? Meaning I can change it to a circular port, but that port must be in the bottom of the speaker and not further up.
Btw, what happened to Kvart & Bolge? Not made anymore? Only reading good reviews, but the webpage seem to have disappeared.
Playing around in my head with the TABAQ-design. Looking at Kvart & Bolge I like the curved side, and I'm intrigued on trying to build something that isn't a standard rectangular box.
I found that xrk971 have made a TABAQ with curved sides earlier in this thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/88787-tabaq-tl-tang-band-119.html#post4556798
Are there more examples?
To redesign, can I change the cross section geometri as long as I maintain the cross section area?
As I understand it, TABAQ is a MLTL design, which means that the "stuffed part" is similar to the box in a bass reflex enclosure, and the "no stuffed part" is part of the port. Probably not correct description, but a rough simplification that is not that off? Does this then mean, when redesign the geometri, that in the stuffed part the importance is to maintain the volume, and in the no stuffed part the importance is both volume and length?
Is bracings ok in the stuffed area but a no-no in the no stuffed area? (This is my assumption)
The port I assume is as usual - cross area and length must be maintained. And I also assume that it must be in the very bottom. Correct? Meaning I can change it to a circular port, but that port must be in the bottom of the speaker and not further up.
Btw, what happened to Kvart & Bolge? Not made anymore? Only reading good reviews, but the webpage seem to have disappeared.
The TABAQ is a MLTL, so, you don't split it into a stuffed or non-stuffed area.
The important numbers are the line length, the cross section area (CSA) of that line, the port length and its CSA, and finally, the driver and port placement along the line.
The shape does not matter, as long as you keep the above similar. Whether it is a triangle, a cylinder, a pentagone, etc....
The rectangle is probably the easiest build, so that's why it is popular.
The stuffing is there to try and suppress some of the harmonics that develop inside the line. Too little stuffing and the port becomes "noisy", to much and you kill the good bass you are trying to achieve.
Good luck.
The important numbers are the line length, the cross section area (CSA) of that line, the port length and its CSA, and finally, the driver and port placement along the line.
The shape does not matter, as long as you keep the above similar. Whether it is a triangle, a cylinder, a pentagone, etc....
The rectangle is probably the easiest build, so that's why it is popular.
The stuffing is there to try and suppress some of the harmonics that develop inside the line. Too little stuffing and the port becomes "noisy", to much and you kill the good bass you are trying to achieve.
Good luck.
Greeting from Malaysia, the land with in the jungle. Have been following this thread for some times now. And after seeing my W3-1878 had lying around for a long time so I've finally decide to give it a go. And my, it really surprised me. The low end are springy and tighter then I would have imagined. And it's a really good match to my hand build exotic Gain Clone.
Many thanks to Bjørn for sharing the design with us.
Cheers~
Many thanks to Bjørn for sharing the design with us.
Cheers~
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
