The 1st is a little unexpected, that the transition bump is killed is a bonus, the 2nd is more so, if one gets the line and the damping right the impedance rise at resonance can be almost flattened … a big boon if you are doing a passive XO.
Here the FF85KeN in a 10:1 1/4 wave aperiodic midTL, showing the dramatic reduction of the resonance peak if you get the damping right (less dense to more at the terminus). You might exiperiment with the plastic pipe and damping. (steel vrs plastic should make little difference).
Been a while since that diyFEST but IIRC you sent me the SeaHawks cap which is one of two in regular rotation.
dave
Here the FF85KeN in a 10:1 1/4 wave aperiodic midTL, showing the dramatic reduction of the resonance peak if you get the damping right (less dense to more at the terminus). You might exiperiment with the plastic pipe and damping. (steel vrs plastic should make little difference).
Been a while since that diyFEST but IIRC you sent me the SeaHawks cap which is one of two in regular rotation.
dave
Flattening the curve is popular right now.
That's pretty cool. I will have to give that a try. It will be interesting to see what it does to the impulse response etc.
I'm not the SeaHawk Dana. There was one sporting a SeaHawk hat. He apparently is a more socially tuned in human than I am. I need work on that. I think I still owe thank you notes to people for birthday gifts when I was 10. Don't tell my mother.
That's pretty cool. I will have to give that a try. It will be interesting to see what it does to the impulse response etc.
I'm not the SeaHawk Dana. There was one sporting a SeaHawk hat. He apparently is a more socially tuned in human than I am. I need work on that. I think I still owe thank you notes to people for birthday gifts when I was 10. Don't tell my mother.
MatsS64 - That is a very interesting design. I think Linkwitz and others have done something similar in the past by using drivers firing up into diffusers/waveguides.
Have you done any measurements?
Have you done any measurements?
My first DIY Speaker
Hello fellow DIY’ers.
This is my first attempt at making speakers. Social distancing and “working from home” wink wink!!, allowed me ample time to research speaker design.
I always wanted to try my hand at this.
After 4 weeks of solid reading and using every speaker calculator available on the internet, I was ready to go.
I knew enough to be dangerous!!
As you can see, I modeled my speaker’s appearance on the B&W 805.
The cabinets I purchased about 1 year ago from a second hand electronics store, but they were in very, very bad shape. I don’t know where they came from, or their history.
Essentially, they were that bad, they could only be used as a guide for making new ones.
The tweeter cone and support frame I made from fiberglass, after a lot of time making the molds. Believe me, I will not do this again. Took a huge amount of time to properly shape and paint.
The tweeter cone can move forward and backward on its support frame. This has proven to be a good thing, as moving it forward and backward altered the sound.
The cabinet is 18L, and the main driver is a HiVi 6.5” Mid Bass driver. The Tweeter is a Dayton 1 1/8” soft dome.
The crossover was the biggest headache. I ended up using a 3rd order Bessel.
So how does it sound?
Overall, I am very happy. Bass is well defined, Mid is clear and coherent. Treble however is a bit bright, and need to be attenuated. May be easier to just insert a L-Pad.
Yes, I could have purchased a reasonably priced name brand for what I spent on these. But hey, I did enjoy building them.
Lesson learnt here: Crossover design and tweaking tested my patience.
Cheers
George.
Hello fellow DIY’ers.
This is my first attempt at making speakers. Social distancing and “working from home” wink wink!!, allowed me ample time to research speaker design.
I always wanted to try my hand at this.
After 4 weeks of solid reading and using every speaker calculator available on the internet, I was ready to go.
I knew enough to be dangerous!!
As you can see, I modeled my speaker’s appearance on the B&W 805.
The cabinets I purchased about 1 year ago from a second hand electronics store, but they were in very, very bad shape. I don’t know where they came from, or their history.
Essentially, they were that bad, they could only be used as a guide for making new ones.
The tweeter cone and support frame I made from fiberglass, after a lot of time making the molds. Believe me, I will not do this again. Took a huge amount of time to properly shape and paint.
The tweeter cone can move forward and backward on its support frame. This has proven to be a good thing, as moving it forward and backward altered the sound.
The cabinet is 18L, and the main driver is a HiVi 6.5” Mid Bass driver. The Tweeter is a Dayton 1 1/8” soft dome.
The crossover was the biggest headache. I ended up using a 3rd order Bessel.
So how does it sound?
Overall, I am very happy. Bass is well defined, Mid is clear and coherent. Treble however is a bit bright, and need to be attenuated. May be easier to just insert a L-Pad.
Yes, I could have purchased a reasonably priced name brand for what I spent on these. But hey, I did enjoy building them.
Lesson learnt here: Crossover design and tweaking tested my patience.
Cheers
George.
Attachments
I didn*t take measurementas.MatsS64 - That is a very interesting design.
Have you done any measurements?
I'm sorry, i just made some sketches and calculations on some sheets of paper, but they are lost by the times.
The waveguide was a leftover from some other tests with 1-Inch dome tweeters. I used it to level up the tweeter and to give it some more direcion and less echo in the room. The crossover seperates it from the speaker at the front at 3000Hz, 12dB, i think.
Both woofer work on the same, pretty big and damped enclosure with a mouth opening of about 40% membransurface. I had to widen up the mouth to place it with the opening to the floor so i checked if that karlsonstyle mouth extension would be a help (or if the ladies had to get a bigger booty).
The woofer in the back comes without crossover to give it a little mor virtual room, that's why i put the holes around it. It passes out at around 6000 Hz.
The upper part is connected with glue to the lower one with a ring of rubber.
@MtBiker
The cavities were a design feature, i attached a foto of the former use with some other speakers.
I really like your style Prag.
Top of the line DIY speakers from about 15 years ago. The speakers use two 7 inch Focal W Cone Midrange drivers, Focal Audiom TD5 Tweeter and two Focal 13 inch W Cone woofers. Top of the line DIY speakers based on Focal drivers. - DanWilson - Speaker Asylum
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Wow if that is your listening room you are a lucky man. I guess the gear just takes it a step further. And why shouldn’t we have orderly, beautiful listening areas where we just want to be. Mine is my lounge and I”M the one who keeps it neat and tidy. Nice environment, nice and just enough gear and bloody good music. That’s me!
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Compact standmount TL with Purifi PTT6.5 and RS28F in WG300 waveguide and passive Harsch quasi-transient perfect XO.
Simple Passive Harsch XO Using PTT6.5 and RS28F in a Waveguide
Simple Passive Harsch XO Using PTT6.5 and RS28F in a Waveguide
Total cost was $1000 for all drivers, XO parts, hardware and wood. I got mine in the GB so saved a little.
that's actually not terrible. i don't think many commercial speakers can boast what this thing can do
3 way active with sub
Current system is Emminence 8 inch bass, 2 6.5 inch phl's open in towers topped by Arum Cantus AST2160 on the front and ATC planars on the back. 15" Legacy driver from PE in the sub.
Alto Stagedrive processor similar to Behringer 2496 using 24 db slopes at 60-380, 380-3000, 3000+. Using Classd Audio SDS470c for 4 channels and tweeters on a little SMSL amp. Sub on Parts Express 1000 watt.
Spotify is usual source with old Musical Fidelity dac set up thorugh USB on the computer. Dirac software on pc to tweak. Old Bedini preamp allows 2 connections, one to main system second to sub as well as allowing volume control.
Current system is Emminence 8 inch bass, 2 6.5 inch phl's open in towers topped by Arum Cantus AST2160 on the front and ATC planars on the back. 15" Legacy driver from PE in the sub.
Alto Stagedrive processor similar to Behringer 2496 using 24 db slopes at 60-380, 380-3000, 3000+. Using Classd Audio SDS470c for 4 channels and tweeters on a little SMSL amp. Sub on Parts Express 1000 watt.
Spotify is usual source with old Musical Fidelity dac set up thorugh USB on the computer. Dirac software on pc to tweak. Old Bedini preamp allows 2 connections, one to main system second to sub as well as allowing volume control.
Attachments
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- System Pictures & Description