After some trial.. I change 47k resistor on plus side to 10k and negetive side to 12k..Difference resistance to get balance dc offset. If use two 12k bias resistor. I cannot trim dc offset close to zero. Only get 100mv.I think i need to change red component.Zener diode 22 to 12v.And resistor from 4.7k to 10k for run in 16v dual power supply.
Which resistor control bias?
Now use 10k and 12k, dc offset can get less than 10mV.
One more issue is,my bridge diode very hot.. I use kpbc2506. Can anyone give suggestion another cold and stable bridge diode model?
Attachments
Nice work.
For your bridge rectifier, that type is normally bolted to a heatsink or the bottom of the metallic enclosure. The connections are usually on top.
BR
Eric
For your bridge rectifier, that type is normally bolted to a heatsink or the bottom of the metallic enclosure. The connections are usually on top.
BR
Eric
Ad a PC of heatsink to that bridge or mount it into that aluminum plate. You run it in heavy Class A cooling for the bridge a must even if it 50A type.
Mount diode to large car amp heatsink.Ad a PC of heatsink to that bridge or mount it into that aluminum plate. You run it in heavy Class A cooling for the bridge a must even if it 50A type.
Use 0.33ohm output resistor. Voltage across this resistor is 0.6v..so bias per bjt is 1.8Amp.
How to measure power output? My power supply is +-16v and speaker 4 ohm
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Build lt4320 ideal bridge described on this forum. You will be suprised.
Can you say advantages?
What is that surprise you?
Mount diode to large car amp heatsink.
Use 0.33ohm output resistor. Voltage across this resistor is 0.6v..so bias per bjt is 1.8Amp.
How to measure power output? My power supply is +-16v and speaker 4 ohm
Flat surface of the bridge must be in close contact with the surface of the heatsink. In the above photo, I can see only a partial contact with the heatsink.
Flat surface of the bridge must be in close contact with the surface of the heatsink. In the above photo, I can see only a partial contact with the heatsink.
For temporary only. After run 5 hours, temperature maintain 50.5 degree without fan. But my transformer need external fan.
This amp sound very good. Have mid and high. And very deep bass. Bass surprises me. Like hear song using headphone. Very clear even low watt amplifier.
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What transistors are you using?For temporary only. After run 5 hours, temperature maintain 50.5 degree without fan. But my transformer need external fan.
This amp sound very good. Have mid and high. And very deep bass. Bass surprises me. Like hear song using headphone. Very clear even low watt amplifier.
Sorry,can you say about small signal transistors,like input,vas,drivers?2sc5200 and 2sa1943
Sorry,can you say about small signal transistors,like input,vas,drivers?
2sa5200/2sa1943
Tip42c/tip41c
2sc1775a/2sa872a
Thanks Mamak,i wonder,are original 2sc1775a/a872a available these days?😕2sa5200/2sa1943
Tip42c/tip41c
2sc1775a/2sa872a
Thanks Mamak,i wonder,are original 2sc1775a/a872a available these days?😕
Good question with no answer. I dont remember where i get thit bjt.. Maybe old stock
Hiraga 30W issues
dear all,
i`m just playing around with new build Hiraga 30W.
IMG-6327 — ImgBB
Transistors are the same as DANs.
All old genuine transitors, i had on hand.
PSU is plus/minus 22V
DC offset nearly zero
about 2,2A biased, stays allmost cold, with big heatsinks and additional fan
When switched on and connected to a speaker they are dead quiet.
When using a preamp (gain reduced JFET BOZ) i have small buzz and hum.
Source is a PC with modded STX II.
When i use the same setup with my Hiraga Le Monstre, with same preamp its dead quiet. from where may the buzz come from?
any ideas?
How to troubleshoot that?
best
dear all,
i`m just playing around with new build Hiraga 30W.
IMG-6327 — ImgBB
Transistors are the same as DANs.
All old genuine transitors, i had on hand.
PSU is plus/minus 22V
DC offset nearly zero
about 2,2A biased, stays allmost cold, with big heatsinks and additional fan
When switched on and connected to a speaker they are dead quiet.
When using a preamp (gain reduced JFET BOZ) i have small buzz and hum.
Source is a PC with modded STX II.
When i use the same setup with my Hiraga Le Monstre, with same preamp its dead quiet. from where may the buzz come from?
any ideas?
How to troubleshoot that?
best
I'd say a small difference in the grounding of the H30: as soon as you connect something on the input you get the noise. Compare this groundings between the two amps.
Lovely butterfly (-'s?).
Lovely butterfly (-'s?).
Impressive looking build ralf, very futuristic - I think you might need some more electro caps😉
Only kidding!
Only kidding!
buzz
i used original layout:
IMG-6345 — ImgBB
IMG-6346 — ImgBB
i used original layout:
IMG-6345 — ImgBB
IMG-6346 — ImgBB
I'd say a small difference in the grounding of the H30: as soon as you connect something on the input you get the noise. Compare this groundings between the two amps.
Lovely butterfly (-'s?).
Not the layout of the boards is in question, but the layout of the groundings of the inner wirings.
i understand.
but the komplete layout of grounding is the same as in my Le Monstre, except, that in LeMonstre is much more Capacity.
and with LeMonstre there is no noise at all ???
i meanwhile tested with different preamps - always the same
perhaps i should test with a different PSU Layout?
but the komplete layout of grounding is the same as in my Le Monstre, except, that in LeMonstre is much more Capacity.
and with LeMonstre there is no noise at all ???
i meanwhile tested with different preamps - always the same
perhaps i should test with a different PSU Layout?
Not the layout of the boards is in question, but the layout of the groundings of the inner wirings.
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