Share: the gluing holes almoust ready, have to clean them.
must of the hols inside on the fram is an additional subholes for the glue filled.
plan to add more 3 holes.
have to clean this holes good as possible.
and so, I will wait for the M3 glue, I decide not to use flexible, because I dont know how it will react as a filler.
I pan to remain a lots of glue behind the boards so the internal one will be captured inside.
Still searching for the "Adhesion Promoter" for the last insurance for the bound strength
*most of the hole in the frame is a support holes
have lots of work/study to do... only with this one little tweeter
still hava to decide how the measure the spacer between the glued parts and the rest of the board.
must of the hols inside on the fram is an additional subholes for the glue filled.
plan to add more 3 holes.
have to clean this holes good as possible.
and so, I will wait for the M3 glue, I decide not to use flexible, because I dont know how it will react as a filler.
I pan to remain a lots of glue behind the boards so the internal one will be captured inside.
Still searching for the "Adhesion Promoter" for the last insurance for the bound strength
*most of the hole in the frame is a support holes
have lots of work/study to do... only with this one little tweeter
still hava to decide how the measure the spacer between the glued parts and the rest of the board.
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got the conductive spray that having 5ohm per cm^2 (to good!)
got the insulation lacquer too
actual measurments, that will be applayed on the board:
each stator squaqer * 2: 4kOHM from plug to start, 16kOHM from plug to the corner top
each stator tweeter *1: 10.4kOHM from damaged point to the corner top
done some stupied experiment to apply it with sponge.
now I have to remove or cover it. and yes, Its less then 5 ohm on some testing points that I tryied, And some points on other place showed 1kOHM
It goes as spray but I cant apply it on the board directly
I removed the coating, have to be more accurate next time and make some quide lines even for apply.
next time after closing the holes, I will have to set the spacer distance and then to coat with conductive and then to color.
got the insulation lacquer too
actual measurments, that will be applayed on the board:
each stator squaqer * 2: 4kOHM from plug to start, 16kOHM from plug to the corner top
each stator tweeter *1: 10.4kOHM from damaged point to the corner top
done some stupied experiment to apply it with sponge.
now I have to remove or cover it. and yes, Its less then 5 ohm on some testing points that I tryied, And some points on other place showed 1kOHM
It goes as spray but I cant apply it on the board directly
I removed the coating, have to be more accurate next time and make some quide lines even for apply.
next time after closing the holes, I will have to set the spacer distance and then to coat with conductive and then to color.
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Created the matrix to repair the holes after gluing
have to remember to restore the pin first before gluing so it will be stable.
*I kept this white matterial for some Electrostatic DIY project (such headphones or speakers) but at this point, this speaker more important to me
to lazy to create another board like this.
I think that I will create some straight boards only to support while gluing (they will covered with Mylar while gluing)
2 parts of boards, 3 areas to restore with glue and drilling holes. (coating new required in 5 areas...)
Little hole and so much trouble....
It so hard and I not a professional.
I'm so tired from this.
but I sure that the restoring is not so far....
have to remember to restore the pin first before gluing so it will be stable.
*I kept this white matterial for some Electrostatic DIY project (such headphones or speakers) but at this point, this speaker more important to me
to lazy to create another board like this.
I think that I will create some straight boards only to support while gluing (they will covered with Mylar while gluing)
2 parts of boards, 3 areas to restore with glue and drilling holes. (coating new required in 5 areas...)
Little hole and so much trouble....
It so hard and I not a professional.
I'm so tired from this.
but I sure that the restoring is not so far....
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Cut more 3 plates, plan to copy the hole matrix with them.
or not.
I will decide tomorrow what to do.
remembered that I having some massive tools and not only saw and dremel
or not.
I will decide tomorrow what to do.
remembered that I having some massive tools and not only saw and dremel
I though about again... and maybe I will have to order some brand new Tweeter boards, compare to the materials that I spent up to now ... it was more economic to me + more chance that this item to function great.
MID HIGH QUAD ESL 57 PANEL
ESL57 OTEC2 Treble Panel
If my attempts to fix this board will fail. then I will 2 two trebble panels of this homemade companies.
do Quad, the company offering this days any repair or the original boards?
who can offer some used board for the restore ?
MID HIGH QUAD ESL 57 PANEL
ESL57 OTEC2 Treble Panel
If my attempts to fix this board will fail. then I will 2 two trebble panels of this homemade companies.
do Quad, the company offering this days any repair or the original boards?
who can offer some used board for the restore ?
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About fixing my board.
I ordered some Enamel from Ebay for isulation,
TAMIYA COLOR ENAMEL XF-66 Light Grey MODEL KIT PAINT 10ml NEW | eBay
is it quality enough?
I found some quality Enamel spray in some near shop.
but it white color only.
do it recommended over the ebay one ?
I plan to use some back patch for the gluing it to board but still fill it will affect badly on the sound quality
I ordered some Enamel from Ebay for isulation,
TAMIYA COLOR ENAMEL XF-66 Light Grey MODEL KIT PAINT 10ml NEW | eBay
is it quality enough?
I found some quality Enamel spray in some near shop.
but it white color only.
do it recommended over the ebay one ?
I plan to use some back patch for the gluing it to board but still fill it will affect badly on the sound quality
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If you go this route -- I'd strongly suggest replacing the panels -- do try corona dope:
Corona Dope - GC Electronics, lacquer coating, 2 oz. | Amplified Parts
Corona Dope - GC Electronics, lacquer coating, 2 oz. | Amplified Parts
I cant ship this material to me.
I do have :
Electronics, lacquer coating as sapray
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And will get some enamel from ebay
Can order additional qualiy enamel as spray but white color only.
Waiting to this brushes (or will order them somewhere) for applying the materials, even the spray that I will not apply directly
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What you suggest is not the same thing. Do try Corona Dope. I've used it for other purposes, and it works as advertised.
It can be thinned with Toluene (which I can get) or Xylenes, which we can at hardware stores here. It is worth the effort.
It will not arc. What you suggest might.
It can be thinned with Toluene (which I can get) or Xylenes, which we can at hardware stores here. It is worth the effort.
It will not arc. What you suggest might.
Thanks, I will think about it,
one bottle with the shipping will cost me $21.15, looks high at this point
another bad news, found that I have to restore the another treble plate too.
the second spear function better because some tweeter parts was dissconected or isulated totaly with the hot glue
disassembly took only 10min this time
another thing that I found is that the holes on the boards do not match.
the second spear function better because some tweeter parts was dissconected or isulated totaly with the hot glue
disassembly took only 10min this time
another thing that I found is that the holes on the boards do not match.
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is one bottle enough for covering all the plates (4 treble)?
Dielectric Strength 3800 V/Mil ==> 3500 V/0.25mm
it means 7400V/ 0.5mm
but do they means that the material having "Dielectric Strength" or it protect from the air distance around it ?
The manufacture said that he don't know about this lacquer that he gave me.
I decide to after checking all possible electronic lacquer "Dielectric Strength"
to use it on all over the board after I will finish to restore the holes and finish to coat and put the enamel
Prepared the board to the restoration, still have to rewire them first and then to re glue and recoat
I decide to after checking all possible electronic lacquer "Dielectric Strength"
to use it on all over the board after I will finish to restore the holes and finish to coat and put the enamel
Prepared the board to the restoration, still have to rewire them first and then to re glue and recoat
Cant find information what Adhesion Promoter before plastic gluing with epoxy
see this as option
Dupli-Color CP199 Clear Adhesion Promoter Primer - 11 oz. | eBay
SEM 39863 Plastic Adhesion Promoter Aerosol - 14.8 oz. | eBay
this item described as good for faint on plastic, and not gluing on plastic as M3 describes
YouTube
Or even this YouTube
this liked less YouTube
ordered the epoxy and copied the holes
but can't find the Adhesion Promoter as shown in video
*this one looks cool YouTube
see this as option
Dupli-Color CP199 Clear Adhesion Promoter Primer - 11 oz. | eBay
SEM 39863 Plastic Adhesion Promoter Aerosol - 14.8 oz. | eBay
this item described as good for faint on plastic, and not gluing on plastic as M3 describes
YouTube
Or even this YouTube
this liked less YouTube
ordered the epoxy and copied the holes
but can't find the Adhesion Promoter as shown in video
*this one looks cool YouTube
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Have you considered buying other treble panels that don't have giant burnt holes in them? That is by far your best bet for success.
Sheldon
Sheldon
Yes!, this is the best solution !
but unfortunately up to this point I spent the same amount of money as a new pair.
so I have this options:
- buy a new pair and not restore the bass panels. and forget about waisted money.
- successfully fix them, and then restore the bass plates.
- fail with fix them and throw or resold this speakers for parts.
I want to restore the electronic parts too!, like EHT and the Crossover, so if it fails, I will not continue to restore the speaker.
As someone suggested other option:
- to paints this holes and connect the boards as is, so they will function only on 10-20% less.
*I will think about it, but it looks less pratical for me,
I want to challenge myself and restore this holes. so I will skip this option.
If I fail but the electronics still be ok:
- I will order new treble boards
If I success then
-I will restore the bass plates to
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Ok, I'm working on this speakers more then a month and still not finished a 1 crossover board
think that 2.2ohm is too much, the speakers sound too low with it, but still without any arcs.
*I made a mistake with the pair/ 4 capacitors, I have to replace between them.
I will let to the system to chill, and then will isulate eche part of it and resolder it again.
the capacitence something like 1050 ?F and 530 ?F
Yes its looks bad and I definitely begin to dislike them
the next will be the second transformer and the Bias board/transformer
think that 2.2ohm is too much, the speakers sound too low with it, but still without any arcs.
*I made a mistake with the pair/ 4 capacitors, I have to replace between them.
I will let to the system to chill, and then will isulate eche part of it and resolder it again.
the capacitence something like 1050 ?F and 530 ?F
Yes its looks bad and I definitely begin to dislike them
the next will be the second transformer and the Bias board/transformer
Replaced the capacitors.
prepare the second board to repairing.
Make some demo with cheap diodes how the protecting circuit will look like, using air soldering and not pcb board.
prepare the second board to repairing.
Make some demo with cheap diodes how the protecting circuit will look like, using air soldering and not pcb board.
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