I will active them on half way and add a resistor in series.
I also have some old SONY HST-D5 (XO-D5) with 35W for 6ohm
I decide to use 2ohm resister because the amp works up to 16ohms.
and esl 57 specs have 15ohm.
I once saw this board on ebay for this issue, not looks like something hard to make
QUAD ESL57 EQ (Pair ) ( THE Widget ) | eBay
I also have some old SONY HST-D5 (XO-D5) with 35W for 6ohm
I decide to use 2ohm resister because the amp works up to 16ohms.
and esl 57 specs have 15ohm.
I once saw this board on ebay for this issue, not looks like something hard to make
QUAD ESL57 EQ (Pair ) ( THE Widget ) | eBay
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Spec on this amp is 160 watt:> esl is about 30-40 watt max
Normal speakers have thermal time constant which makes them safe for use with an over-power amp (no clipping).The esl has no such thing overdrive for 100th of a second and thats your diaphrams burnt out.!!! In otherwords back to square one !!!
Normal speakers have thermal time constant which makes them safe for use with an over-power amp (no clipping).The esl has no such thing overdrive for 100th of a second and thats your diaphrams burnt out.!!! In otherwords back to square one !!!
When esl was first made 16 ohn speakers were the norm.Now I DONT KNOW if Quad ever later changed to 8 ohm or not.?
But this STILL leaves the question of if any of your amps can handle the esl capacitive load without problem.
As I said I ONLY sold them with Quad 303 or Quad 405 WITH LIMITING RESISTOR in the 405..
But this STILL leaves the question of if any of your amps can handle the esl capacitive load without problem.
As I said I ONLY sold them with Quad 303 or Quad 405 WITH LIMITING RESISTOR in the 405..
Yes, your panel very likely had problems. I was not trying to say it was OK as it was.
I was saying it looks like it has two different kinds of damage:
1) superficial - easy to repair
2) structural - harder to repair, needs rebuilding of area OR cleanup and insulating if rebuilding is not possible.
For the structural damage spots, you could have a short in the panel from one stator to the other OR you could have an area where the spacing is very small and prone to arcing. Either way, those areas will need some kind of repair. It could be removal of damage, cleanup/grinding, insulating, etc. Without having the panel in front of me, I'm just guessing and trying to give some possible fixes.
My point about the small dB loss when losing small stator area is that if they are small enough they won't affect the sound much. It is easier to do a basic fix in those spots that just takes care of the arcing or shorting. A full fix to original area and function will be much more work.
I like you'r enthusiasm and knowledge
as I say and meant:
- Before the repairing:
I plug and test each speaker by one with Sony 1080,
one of them works exelent!!! up to highs! but on very high volume started the arcing on the woofers.
after setting the volume to middle rage they worked fine.
Second speaker found as problematic, the amp turned off to protection mode when I tried to hear something little bit higher then the lower volume.
After the treble board removed they worked fine as the first one.
also discover that the speakers is very dusty, the resistors not showed the correct value.
and up to this moment I bought the restore kit for the membranes and disassemble the problematic treble panel.
plan to restore it, plan to close the hole and spray it with conductive spray and then cover it with paint.
all this while trying to keep the same 0.5mm distance
And try to set this Set this area straight, becoase all the panel boards having the bent/flexible plastic and I plan to close this hole with something stiff but thin, some Poxipol.
I set the order to new resistors for 1W 10kV.
accepted my mistake with not relaid resisters (3W 750v) though about being winner with 3W resister but never heard or try to work with kV (Top Voltage) items.
*Also accept my mistake about the plugs that I mention before, I will not use them.
Up to this moment, this speakers unused,
I plan to find any time and fix it little bit every week.
I having 3-5 pairs of vintage Electrostatic headphone that have to fix and restore.
If I will success I will send here some pictures
Now I understand how much vintage items breakable and Its defenatly very hard to keep it in work condition.
And sometimes hard and even impossible to fix it or improve it.
Will continue to send some messages,
again thanks you all for helping!
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It does seem that most of your problems are down to a previous owner.There is a lot of online info about repairing Quad esl. But once the new membrane is fitted and streched the next major problem is coating the new diaphram.
There are lots of conductive paints on the market but most are too conductive to use or will not adhere to the membrane.The operating principle of the Quad requires very very high resistance for correct operation.As I understand it the coating is a type of soluble nylon which absorbs moisture from the air to become slightly conductive it also bonds tightly to the diaphram due to triboelectric effect and also is very thin and low mass.
This is where most people have problems building/repairing electrostatic speakers or esl.
Also as I understand it some people who sell coatings for esl the product is often snake oil.Also be aware when looking online for answers the coating on Quad esl63 is not the same as your esl.
I have sometimes thought of building my own electrostatic speakers,But the issue of coating has detered me from doing so.
There are lots of conductive paints on the market but most are too conductive to use or will not adhere to the membrane.The operating principle of the Quad requires very very high resistance for correct operation.As I understand it the coating is a type of soluble nylon which absorbs moisture from the air to become slightly conductive it also bonds tightly to the diaphram due to triboelectric effect and also is very thin and low mass.
This is where most people have problems building/repairing electrostatic speakers or esl.
Also as I understand it some people who sell coatings for esl the product is often snake oil.Also be aware when looking online for answers the coating on Quad esl63 is not the same as your esl.
I have sometimes thought of building my own electrostatic speakers,But the issue of coating has detered me from doing so.
This is not very likely, because the conductive layer is on the outside of the bass panels. It was most likely mechanical noise (rattling) which should be cured separately.
The resistors soldered on the big transformer ar 20% tolerance, they are not critical and they seldom fail.
Don't use any conductive spray on the treble panels. As I wrote before, the best plan is to replace them with new or aftermarket treble panels (both side to maintain uniformity).
I am not sure if anybody ever asked, but have you measured the HT? You have to use >100Mohm special instrument capable of measuring 10kV.
I bough the coating and the explanation how to use it from ERAudio,
used in past some shitty methods of "Anty static spray" that destroyed lots of my electrostatic heaphones.
plan to repair the headphones and the speakers with this coating.
The glue for the membrane is important to!
not any glue can hold polyethylene or Mylar properly.
I bought this glue from ERAudio to.
cant find another methods to fix the membrane, because of it, I bought all the items from ERAudio (Mylar + glue + coating [all the repairing kit])
and hop it will be better from all my failing experiments on the headphones.
Because I plan to do some quality restoration.
for me it seemed fail!
the resistors having a gold ring!
it means 5% tolerance. after 30+ years...
I plan to cover the hole with epoxy/poxipol, Sanding it to the right depth, recoat it with the right coloring (conductive and not conductive).
Cant find any used plates.
I need only good one, if so.
I planned to buil some voltage devider:
1G ohm + 10M ohm in series (1G)+(10M)
and connect it with aligators/solder to bias connectors.
The result I will get from the 10Mohm resestor (something like 1/100)
if for example it will read 60v, I will decide that there is 6,000v ~
I still want to ask here about this method safeness ?
Had a look at ERAudio website,Seems reasonable enough.
regarding your divider you want to split the resistors in the upper arm so the have 500 v or so max and use I2R to size for wattage this can be built on tagboard (not veroboard).eg: 1 gig = 10 off 100 meg resistors in series keep good spacing and pot with epoxy resin in plastic case. Your dvm will need to be very high imput impedance do not permanantly connect as resistors will overheat when potted. (they need to be heat dried then potted).Use eht cable for connections car ignition cable will do.
BTW you can buy eht probes I got one for my fluke meter was safe to 30kv.They used to be sold for testing eht on cathode ray televisions and computer monitors.Tvs nowadays are lcd but they should sill be availible mine was NOT expensive.
regarding your divider you want to split the resistors in the upper arm so the have 500 v or so max and use I2R to size for wattage this can be built on tagboard (not veroboard).eg: 1 gig = 10 off 100 meg resistors in series keep good spacing and pot with epoxy resin in plastic case. Your dvm will need to be very high imput impedance do not permanantly connect as resistors will overheat when potted. (they need to be heat dried then potted).Use eht cable for connections car ignition cable will do.
BTW you can buy eht probes I got one for my fluke meter was safe to 30kv.They used to be sold for testing eht on cathode ray televisions and computer monitors.Tvs nowadays are lcd but they should sill be availible mine was NOT expensive.
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Actually something like this without any board
I ordered 2pcs of this 1Gohm (2W 15kV)
2Watts 5% High Voltage Glass Glaze Resistors 100K-500M Ohm | eBay
Cant even measure them
forgot to reorder another 10M ohm resistor, decide to order 20M
But still this will be fine
10Mohm (0.6w 500v)
10pcs - Vishay(Roederstein) MK2 10M 0.6W 1% 50ppm Metal Film Resistor | eBay
for example for 6,000v
1Gohm:10Mohm is ~ 5040:60 v
5040 on 1Gohm (1,000,000,000ohm)
60v on 10Mohm (10,000,000ohm)
the second formula
1Gohm minimum Wattage: 0.03W (6kV)
10Mohm minimum Wattage: 0.001W (100V)
Still 1Gohm with 5% mistake (could be +-50Mohm) and I cant measure it, and its feels like open circuit
And another fact that I dont know what is the internal Voltmeter resistance (Rv).
So it will be parallel with 10Mohm resister (R_voltmeter || R_10Mohm)
I will check for another measure tools.
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No no no leakage + corona will render results invalid at 1000 meg impedence
you need to remember atmospheric moisture also salts in finger sweat and pysical size re gradient stress and ionisation in the 5-10kv range
At this point I must tell you i am hi-fi ameteur of 50 years standing BUT MORE IMPORTANT i am a high voltage professional degree qualified and certified engineer of 40 yrs standing.There is a why and a wherefore to my advice.
you need to remember atmospheric moisture also salts in finger sweat and pysical size re gradient stress and ionisation in the 5-10kv range
At this point I must tell you i am hi-fi ameteur of 50 years standing BUT MORE IMPORTANT i am a high voltage professional degree qualified and certified engineer of 40 yrs standing.There is a why and a wherefore to my advice.
can you remind what you suggested to do?
*If I right it possible to do a divider with capacitors (1:100) and measure it
OK I have had a sleep and calmed down.
Capacitors will properly voltage divide for ac only and are not a good idea for measuring circuits with transformers in them due to potential resonance effects. and frequency dependent impedance#and stored charge ie shock.(reqiring bypass with resistors any way)
What i said about constructing the divider box will be accurate on ac/dc IF your dvm is high impedance imput.(most are ).
You must also understand i can ONLY advise you to proceed in a safe manner for all i know you or anyone else using slapdash methods may have a medical condition which in the event of electric shock could result in death.
Yes i know anything goes on the internet ive seen the youtubes.But in my career i have seen people die.(In one case there was not enough left of a 19 year old boy to fill his coffin !!!)
You seem intent on playing with eht and if you build the box as i say using as many 1% metal oxide resistors as you can cram in you will end up with a safe and usefull addition to your toolbox. (I built one myself ).
Capacitors will properly voltage divide for ac only and are not a good idea for measuring circuits with transformers in them due to potential resonance effects. and frequency dependent impedance#and stored charge ie shock.(reqiring bypass with resistors any way)
What i said about constructing the divider box will be accurate on ac/dc IF your dvm is high impedance imput.(most are ).
You must also understand i can ONLY advise you to proceed in a safe manner for all i know you or anyone else using slapdash methods may have a medical condition which in the event of electric shock could result in death.
Yes i know anything goes on the internet ive seen the youtubes.But in my career i have seen people die.(In one case there was not enough left of a 19 year old boy to fill his coffin !!!)
You seem intent on playing with eht and if you build the box as i say using as many 1% metal oxide resistors as you can cram in you will end up with a safe and usefull addition to your toolbox. (I built one myself ).
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