I am totally oblivious to most of these plots. Do you have a listening experience with this last one?
BTW, that 0.3 mH inductor looks a bit too large to me... A largish cap with a smallish inductor might be rewarding in listening..
BTW, that 0.3 mH inductor looks a bit too large to me... A largish cap with a smallish inductor might be rewarding in listening..
Ok, what is a largish cap? Is 33uF large enough?
If I put a 33uF with a 0.150mH inductor, this is what I get... I'm sure that you can see the ragged displays in those graphs, and it should somehow tell you that it would be horrible to listen to.
But, there is nothing that says you can't do it, especially not at DIYAudio! 🙂
Feel free to try this yourself.
If I put a 33uF with a 0.150mH inductor, this is what I get... I'm sure that you can see the ragged displays in those graphs, and it should somehow tell you that it would be horrible to listen to.
But, there is nothing that says you can't do it, especially not at DIYAudio! 🙂
Feel free to try this yourself.
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Just curious - why is there so much pre-ringing in the impulse response (assuming the impulse is at t=0), when the system is purely analogue?
Largish of course means in comparison to something. Such as in comparison to what one would crudely get from a text book calculator for a given inductor value. 33 muF in relation to 0.15 mH is not largish but plain unreasonable.
I did not mean to bother anybody to perform free simulations for me as I don't have much faith in sims and measurements anyway. Good luck with your project...
Hey Ya'll. New to the forum.
So which Crossover / Enclosure seems like the strongest choice for this speaker thus far?
I don't own any software myself, but my first thought was to go with the 6inch and put it in a small sealed enclosure to limit low-end response / excursion like someone else in here suggested. Which would create more mellow waters for the mid-range to swim in and produce cleaner vocals etc, but obviously this would only work if you were planning on adding a woofer to the equation or a separate powered sub.
Someone else also mentioned earlier removing the Low Pass on the mid-range entirely and seeing how it would perform as a full range along side (For most of the way) the tweeter. This would leave just a High Pass for the tweeter which would obviously be a very simple crossover which is always a positive, no?
So which Crossover / Enclosure seems like the strongest choice for this speaker thus far?
I don't own any software myself, but my first thought was to go with the 6inch and put it in a small sealed enclosure to limit low-end response / excursion like someone else in here suggested. Which would create more mellow waters for the mid-range to swim in and produce cleaner vocals etc, but obviously this would only work if you were planning on adding a woofer to the equation or a separate powered sub.
Someone else also mentioned earlier removing the Low Pass on the mid-range entirely and seeing how it would perform as a full range along side (For most of the way) the tweeter. This would leave just a High Pass for the tweeter which would obviously be a very simple crossover which is always a positive, no?
Hi all,
My first post here as I joined only recently.
I am building a bluetooth speaker and got the following components:
Dayton audio KAB-100M amp with integrated bluetooth.
Dayton audio 2K 4ohm high pass and 2K low pass filters.
Tang Band W6-2313 driver.
I wanted to wire up and test if the speaker works without the enclosure as I still need to build it. What I am getting is very quiet sound out of the driver.
I have connected the crossover as shown here
The mid woofer doesn't seem to move at all. Even when I feel it by touching it very lightly, it doesn't produce any vibrations. There is a change in sound when I disconnect it and leave only tweeter connected though.
So one of the things I was suspecting is connections on the speaker itself. I have assumed two connections on opposite sides are for tweeter and the other two that are right next to each other are for mid range as the wire is heading to the back of the speaker.
https://www.parts-express.com/Data/Default/Images/Catalog/Original/264-9002_ALT_0.jpg
Problem is also there was no documentation at all with the speaker in the box or anywhere online on what is the connection for the tweeter and woofer.
Other thing that comes to my mind is power supply to the Amp. I was using 19V and specs say 100W @21V.
Or is it simply the fact that the speaker is not in the enclosure that makes it sound very quiet.
Any help would be much appreciated.
My first post here as I joined only recently.
I am building a bluetooth speaker and got the following components:
Dayton audio KAB-100M amp with integrated bluetooth.
Dayton audio 2K 4ohm high pass and 2K low pass filters.
Tang Band W6-2313 driver.
I wanted to wire up and test if the speaker works without the enclosure as I still need to build it. What I am getting is very quiet sound out of the driver.
I have connected the crossover as shown here
The mid woofer doesn't seem to move at all. Even when I feel it by touching it very lightly, it doesn't produce any vibrations. There is a change in sound when I disconnect it and leave only tweeter connected though.
So one of the things I was suspecting is connections on the speaker itself. I have assumed two connections on opposite sides are for tweeter and the other two that are right next to each other are for mid range as the wire is heading to the back of the speaker.
https://www.parts-express.com/Data/Default/Images/Catalog/Original/264-9002_ALT_0.jpg
Problem is also there was no documentation at all with the speaker in the box or anywhere online on what is the connection for the tweeter and woofer.
Other thing that comes to my mind is power supply to the Amp. I was using 19V and specs say 100W @21V.
Or is it simply the fact that the speaker is not in the enclosure that makes it sound very quiet.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Also if anyone needs 3D model of this driver, I have modeled it in SketchUp. I can export to some other formats if SU is not your cup of tea. Hit me up if you need it. Same goes for Dayton Audio amp and crossover components.
The wired connection is for the tweeter. I hope you didn't blow your tweeters with that 21V on the lowpass xover.
Yes- the box will isolate the woofer better and bass should be present, but I think you had the wiring wrong.
Later,
Wolf
Yes- the box will isolate the woofer better and bass should be present, but I think you had the wiring wrong.
Later,
Wolf
In doubt, it is always a good idea to take a 1.5 V battery and touch the speaker terminals gently to hear the click-click sound. In doing so, you will also clearly see the woofer cone moving. What you see in the jpeg are tweeter terminals.
Thanks for the help and tips guys. Tweeter has survived. I got worried there for a moment.
Connected everything properly and it sounds good.
Connected everything properly and it sounds good.
Nice! Thanks!
Feel free to post the file up! I could use that in my enclosure modelling.
Always check wiring twice, or even 5 times! In my case, I always triple check my wiring as I don't trust myself with that... That's why I don't want to attempt building my own amps... I'm sure I'll burn down the house!
Trying to come up with an enclosure....
Had a discussion with a friend of mine, and times are tough.
He's a master of dealing with composites.
So, I decided to give him a small job. I'll come up with an enclosure, and he will make it in carbon fiber. That should bring out the W6-2313 nicely!
Had a discussion with a friend of mine, and times are tough.
He's a master of dealing with composites.
So, I decided to give him a small job. I'll come up with an enclosure, and he will make it in carbon fiber. That should bring out the W6-2313 nicely!
A "Juke-Box" shape cabinet is a great combination of form+function
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-well certainly it would have to be a vertical pair of Satori MW19PNW-8 (parallel) below the TB coax in a smaller version of the B&W 802 (sans tweeter), yes? 😉
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what about a oval shape? with Pi ratio mounting of the driver on the front baffle on both dimensions.
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I really like that "jukebox" style, LineSource. It's tempting. It might just work.
It's funny, ScottG, the B&W were in the back of my mind, and I have started to think if I should have the 2313 by itself (needing a sub or two), or combine with a woofer, for the whole package. The only woofer I have hanging at home right now is a TB W8-1363SBF. I will try to put it under the coax and see how it goes.
I'd like to have a small version speaker, so, no dual Satoris! I already have my big OBs with 15" woofers, the dual SBA race track woofers are in the design process as well, and this could be a smaller system.
Waveinform, I think I'd prefer a teardrop shape. We were playing around with my friend and sketched this:
It's funny, ScottG, the B&W were in the back of my mind, and I have started to think if I should have the 2313 by itself (needing a sub or two), or combine with a woofer, for the whole package. The only woofer I have hanging at home right now is a TB W8-1363SBF. I will try to put it under the coax and see how it goes.
I'd like to have a small version speaker, so, no dual Satoris! I already have my big OBs with 15" woofers, the dual SBA race track woofers are in the design process as well, and this could be a smaller system.
Waveinform, I think I'd prefer a teardrop shape. We were playing around with my friend and sketched this:
