Hi,
A friend of mine ask me if it's possible to convert usb input to coax? I just quickly have a look on schematic and it seems to be fairly simple mod, or am I mistaken?
Second thing he asked was about power supply; I'm really tempting to build a dedicated symetrical power supply with separate sections for each circuit (5V;3,3V;2x18V, ect.) and fit multi pin socket, instead existing one.
My questions is: Is it worth it? Has anyone try to build PSU as a split voltage unit? Or maybe for the money spend on decent power supply, it will be better to sell DACMagic and buy something different?
I'm looking forward to hear your opinions
A friend of mine ask me if it's possible to convert usb input to coax? I just quickly have a look on schematic and it seems to be fairly simple mod, or am I mistaken?
Second thing he asked was about power supply; I'm really tempting to build a dedicated symetrical power supply with separate sections for each circuit (5V;3,3V;2x18V, ect.) and fit multi pin socket, instead existing one.
My questions is: Is it worth it? Has anyone try to build PSU as a split voltage unit? Or maybe for the money spend on decent power supply, it will be better to sell DACMagic and buy something different?
I'm looking forward to hear your opinions
DacMagic upgrade
I don't know how to convert USB to coax.
I internally modified a friend's DacMagic with dedicated power supplies. Impressive improvement in performance!
Would I do it again? NO!
The model is now so outdated. It just wouldn't be worth the time and materials. Buy something new, instead, that has better EVERYTHING internally. 
Atom
I don't know how to convert USB to coax.
I internally modified a friend's DacMagic with dedicated power supplies. Impressive improvement in performance!
Would I do it again? NO!
The model is now so outdated. It just wouldn't be worth the time and materials. Buy something new, instead, that has better EVERYTHING internally. Atom
Hi,
Thanks for replies, hovever there is some confusion here (my bad); I'm thinking to bypass a whole usb decoder (U1-CM108), which change usb signal to spdif, and use the input dedicated for it, based on U7 (74HCT14)
>Atom Shop; could you share what exactly did you do? (maybe some pics? Thanks
Thanks for replies, hovever there is some confusion here (my bad); I'm thinking to bypass a whole usb decoder (U1-CM108), which change usb signal to spdif, and use the input dedicated for it, based on U7 (74HCT14)
>Atom Shop; could you share what exactly did you do? (maybe some pics? Thanks
Final Mods
I have been reading this with great interest. I had my DacMagic extensively upgraded professionally but I am just wondering if I can extract even more performance from it. I am thinking of asking for the Panasonic FC caps power supply caps replaced with Elna Cerafine and the Rubycon ZA/ZLG decoupling caps with Elna Silmic II. What are your thoughts on this?
Also, I am looking at all the Wima FKP2 150/100- caps, please can anyone tell me what these are for? I am thinking of asking for these to be changed to Amtrans AMCH.
I am also looking at the Wima MKP4 0.1 caps, please can anyone tell me what these are for? I am thinking of asking for these to be changed to Amtrans AMCO.
Thanks in advance.
I have been reading this with great interest. I had my DacMagic extensively upgraded professionally but I am just wondering if I can extract even more performance from it. I am thinking of asking for the Panasonic FC caps power supply caps replaced with Elna Cerafine and the Rubycon ZA/ZLG decoupling caps with Elna Silmic II. What are your thoughts on this?
Also, I am looking at all the Wima FKP2 150/100- caps, please can anyone tell me what these are for? I am thinking of asking for these to be changed to Amtrans AMCH.
I am also looking at the Wima MKP4 0.1 caps, please can anyone tell me what these are for? I am thinking of asking for these to be changed to Amtrans AMCO.
Thanks in advance.
Unless someone has already done this who could tell you if it is worth the costs and hassle, I would suspect that the changes would be small. I have a modded earlier Dacmagic and the one you have. In the past I have modded many Dacs which at the time I thought were a major improvement. Perhaps they were, but I think that one can get sucked into expecting more and more improvement. If it sounds good enough, then it probably is. Just my two pennorth.
Amtrans AMCO is a polyester cap. In general polyester caps are not used in high end audio. Polypropylene caps are what you want to use
WIMA Polypropylene are excellent caps and replacing them would most likely yield no benefit
Panasonic makes good electrolytic power supply caps so again little or no benefit
I agree with Puffin. I would stay put
WIMA Polypropylene are excellent caps and replacing them would most likely yield no benefit
Panasonic makes good electrolytic power supply caps so again little or no benefit
I agree with Puffin. I would stay put
Thread revival...!
Is the Dac magic still deemed a decent piece of kit or can better performance be had from Ali/eBay boards with more up to date chips.?
I have one....obtained recently. I like it but have no other benchmarks.
Quick one.....the output coupling caps...470uf 16v. Thwy are bipolar and many suggestions here to swap out for Pans FC etc.....but I only see these in polarised.
Is adding a polarised cap ok and if so doesn't matter which way I mount it?
Is the Dac magic still deemed a decent piece of kit or can better performance be had from Ali/eBay boards with more up to date chips.?
I have one....obtained recently. I like it but have no other benchmarks.
Quick one.....the output coupling caps...470uf 16v. Thwy are bipolar and many suggestions here to swap out for Pans FC etc.....but I only see these in polarised.
Is adding a polarised cap ok and if so doesn't matter which way I mount it?
Coupling caps need to be non polarized or they will be damaged when the signal goes up and down. They do not need to be 470uf. The equation is 1 / (6.28 * Cap in farads * the resistance). Unless you are going to headphones the input resistance of most devices is 47K. 47K in parallel with the 100K R48/58 is 32K. Using a 1uf coupling cap results in a 4.8hz low end cutoff. There will be an affect at 9hz and a small affect at 18hz. So a 1uf will do. Here is a surface mount from Mouser. SMDIC04100TB00KQ00 WIMA | Mouser. Part number SMDIC04100TB00KQ00. Or you can use this one from Panasonic ECW-FD2W105Q1 Panasonic | Mouser. Part number ECW-FD2W105Q1. The main thing is that it is Polypropylene (PP) or PPS.
I listened to a DacMagic Plus once, and didn't like it at all. My recollection is that it sounded like there was some phasey group delay artifact (compared to the much better Benchmark DAC-3). I ordered it from Amazon thinking that low cost dacs in that sort of price range may have gotten better. It went right back in the box, and was returned for refund. Did not meet my expectations or needs, was the reason.
You could mod a cheap dac to make a good one, or if you can get by with an RPi music player type dac, I can definitely recommend Allo Katana as I described and posted of pic of over in another thread:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/314935-es9038q2m-board-332.html#post5623968
Also a couple of posts here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/314935-es9038q2m-board-332.html#post5623634
The point I wanted to make is that I strongly feel to get the best out of Katana and much better than DacMagic, IMHO, Katana needs the optional 'isolator' and the 'thd' version output stage. It also needs at least a modest +-15v and +5v linear power supply with film caps on the 15v rails, and then another +5v supply for RPi and the RPi side of the isolator board. Configured that way, it is very good. Still not quite DAC-3, but most people will probably not notice any difference. I wouldn't recommend it lightly, I think it is a very good dac and bargain priced for the sound quality you would get. My two cents.
EDIT: Also should mention the muddiness or thickness, etc., I reported about the sound quality turned out to be due the particular reconstruction filter that it was using by default. With different filter settings that issue went away.
Another thing if you are into doing any modding at all is I think it might be possible to send Katana upsampled DSD in master mode and turn it into a general purpose dac that can be free of RPi, if desired. Still something I am working on, but I hope to test a similar ES9038Q2M dac pretty soon that way to see how it works out.
You could mod a cheap dac to make a good one, or if you can get by with an RPi music player type dac, I can definitely recommend Allo Katana as I described and posted of pic of over in another thread:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/314935-es9038q2m-board-332.html#post5623968
Also a couple of posts here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/314935-es9038q2m-board-332.html#post5623634
The point I wanted to make is that I strongly feel to get the best out of Katana and much better than DacMagic, IMHO, Katana needs the optional 'isolator' and the 'thd' version output stage. It also needs at least a modest +-15v and +5v linear power supply with film caps on the 15v rails, and then another +5v supply for RPi and the RPi side of the isolator board. Configured that way, it is very good. Still not quite DAC-3, but most people will probably not notice any difference. I wouldn't recommend it lightly, I think it is a very good dac and bargain priced for the sound quality you would get. My two cents.
EDIT: Also should mention the muddiness or thickness, etc., I reported about the sound quality turned out to be due the particular reconstruction filter that it was using by default. With different filter settings that issue went away.
Another thing if you are into doing any modding at all is I think it might be possible to send Katana upsampled DSD in master mode and turn it into a general purpose dac that can be free of RPi, if desired. Still something I am working on, but I hope to test a similar ES9038Q2M dac pretty soon that way to see how it works out.
Last edited:
Seriously. You recommended the Katana and did not even know it was limited to 16 bit 48kHz. We all know the what the DAC Magic can do.
The original question was related to the capacitors for the DAC Magic. If Jim wants to build one, then he has a right to have an answer to the DAC Magic. That is what this thread is for.
The original question was related to the capacitors for the DAC Magic. If Jim wants to build one, then he has a right to have an answer to the DAC Magic. That is what this thread is for.
There are other opinions on DacMagic.
I have a DacMagic Plus, like it a lot and wouldn't hesitate to recommend it.
Is it as good as a Benchmark DAC3 in measured performance? Probably not.
Would "I" be able to tell the difference when listening - again, probably not.
So, I could buy more music with the $$ difference. What's not to like?
Modify the caps as was suggested by Ajcrock and enjoy your work.
I may try that mod myself ...
mlloyd1
I have a DacMagic Plus, like it a lot and wouldn't hesitate to recommend it.
Is it as good as a Benchmark DAC3 in measured performance? Probably not.
Would "I" be able to tell the difference when listening - again, probably not.
So, I could buy more music with the $$ difference. What's not to like?
Modify the caps as was suggested by Ajcrock and enjoy your work.
I may try that mod myself ...
mlloyd1
Are you sure you aren't thinking of some other DAC?
Katana is limited to 32/192 (or 24/192) if using the isolator board. IIRC, it works up to 32/384 without the isolator board. How could it be limited to 16/48 given the dac chip is ES9038Q2M? The only reason it doesn't go up to 768kHz without the isolator is because the faster of the two clocks it has is only 49.152MHz.
Also, I was responding to the question that was asked a few posts up:
Katana is limited to 32/192 (or 24/192) if using the isolator board. IIRC, it works up to 32/384 without the isolator board. How could it be limited to 16/48 given the dac chip is ES9038Q2M? The only reason it doesn't go up to 768kHz without the isolator is because the faster of the two clocks it has is only 49.152MHz.
Also, I was responding to the question that was asked a few posts up:
Last edited:
Of course. No argument that some people like it a lot. Not me, but that's just one person's opinion. Since the question was asked about newer and better dacs, presumably in the same kind of price range, I offered my personal opinion in response. If the poster did not want such opinions then he shouldn't have asked the question.
I use those surface mount caps as coupling caps all the time. Be careful though. When soldering if you move the cap sideways the end cap pad can fall off. Order extra. Sonically they are as good as WIMA
Mark my problem with your response it is not a better DAC based on what it can do. The Cambridge is capable of 192kz 24 bit. What you recommended is not. In the future you should find out the true capabilities by obtaining a schematic and looking at the parts in the signal path. You should also look at the power cleaning capabilities. Adding a couple film caps and upping the voltage will not clean a switching power supply. Actually you wasted your money. What you need to consider is what regulators are involved and the switching frequency. COG class 1 caps are required and they need to be matched to the switching frequency.
Then once you finish your modifications you need to look at a spectrum analyzer with clean input signal and make sure that you are indeed better off. Only then can you say this is better and why.
If you cannot provide complete and accurate information, then don’t suggest buy this and make these modifications.
Mark my problem with your response it is not a better DAC based on what it can do. The Cambridge is capable of 192kz 24 bit. What you recommended is not. In the future you should find out the true capabilities by obtaining a schematic and looking at the parts in the signal path. You should also look at the power cleaning capabilities. Adding a couple film caps and upping the voltage will not clean a switching power supply. Actually you wasted your money. What you need to consider is what regulators are involved and the switching frequency. COG class 1 caps are required and they need to be matched to the switching frequency.
Then once you finish your modifications you need to look at a spectrum analyzer with clean input signal and make sure that you are indeed better off. Only then can you say this is better and why.
If you cannot provide complete and accurate information, then don’t suggest buy this and make these modifications.
Last edited: