NAP-140 Clone Amp Kit on eBay

I'm very interested to know how these kits sound. Are they sounding like real Naims? I found this discussion on Pink Fish Media and may be of interest.
so-what-is-the-naim-sound-and-do-many-truly-have-it.

I was amused by this comment, post #16:
The only thing I've found over the years is that if you have any doubts about your Naim system sounding as good as it should, there'll be someone who'll tell you that it's only once one reaches the n+1 level that Naim really starts sounding great (n= the level you're currently at). I've had this with a 92 followed by a flatcap followed by a 102 followed by an NAPSC followed by a HiCap followed by an 82. Apparently I needed a 52/Supercap to really have high fidelity. At this point I gave up and went valve...

:D
 
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The amusing part to me regarding those 20th century Naim products, with their multiple outboard power supplies and other anachronistic components, is how a simple system became a pile of unnecessary cables, several very expensive little boxes and the messiest of amplification systems imaginable - just to maintain backward compatibility. It seems to have taken 30 years to get around to addressing the problem though :rolleyes:
 
That was their winning business model...tempting you to buy more add-ons and "get involved" in your system. They still have too many products IMO. The world passed Naim by, for a very long time, and now they are trying to catch up. At least you can buy an Atom and a pair of speakers and off you go. Disappointing sound quality for the money though.
 
The amusing part to me regarding those 20th century Naim products, with their multiple outboard power supplies and other anachronistic components, is how a simple system became a pile of unnecessary cables, several very expensive little boxes and the messiest of amplification systems imaginable - just to maintain backward compatibility. It seems to have taken 30 years to get around to addressing the problem though :rolleyes:

Aren’t we all glad Naim did make it messy, otherwise we’d not be having so much DIY fun !?
Y
 
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Well guys, we don't need to go beyond the basic power amplifier here but if you like to mess about with the special cables and power supplies that supply other power supplies that then supply preamplifiers for example, then there are other forums where the guys there just can't get enough complexity and seem to make a study of every detail, nut, bolt, component, wire etc. going back to the 1980s when this endless power supply cascading and upgrading spiral began :xeye:

Me, I do like Naim sound, just with a preamp that has a proper inbuilt PSU and fewer pointless boxes. I also agree with Traderbam, in that the sound quality now, may not be as rich in harmonics as older products but just look at the utility of this ATOM thingy YouTube. Now, there's a nice little black box - and it needs nothing more :)
 
I also agree with Traderbam, in that the sound quality now, may not be as rich in harmonics as older products but just look at the utility of this ATOM thingy YouTube. Now, there's a nice little black box - and it needs nothing more :)
Did I say that?
The issue with the new products that I have auditioned is that they lack musical integrity. This is not the same as saying they lack harmonics. I am not saying anything about the harmonics of either new or old Naim gear. I am definitely not saying that musical integrity requires the addition of harmonics: please leave me out of that camp. :)
 
All you need these days is an iPad/tablet, a wireless DAC, amp and speakers. Eg: Kef has LS50 wireless, active speakers (the speakers contain DACs and amps) so you just need a tablet. For £2000 this solution is a lot cheaper than a Naim Atom + speakers. And you really need a tablet with the Atom anyhow.
Now if the Naim Atom sounded really good then I could see the attraction, but it doesn't. So they are trying to sell it on utility and brand name, and I think they are going to struggle under competitive pressure. All Naim were traditionally good at was sound quality but now they are letting that slide and trying to compete on user interface. Interesting times.
 
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Did I say that?....
I didn't set out to interpret your description as meaning reduced harmonic distortion. That was determined by my own measurements in testing mostly older Naim products - though the few I've looked at from the past 15 years did have lower distortion at low output levels (below approx. 5W) than older models.

My intention was only to agree with your assessment of the ATOM at #3484 regarding its utility, which I think is the feature new buyers will find most attractive. Unfortunately, I can only see this model via the internet.
 
I didn't set out to interpret your description as meaning reduced harmonic distortion. That was determined by my own measurements in testing mostly older Naim products - though the few I've looked at from the past 15 years did have lower distortion at low output levels (below approx. 5W) than older models.

My intention was only to agree with your assessment of the ATOM at #3484 regarding its utility, which I think is the feature new buyers will find most attractive. Unfortunately, I can only see this model via the internet.
Sure, I see what you mean. Fortunately, I have two or three nearby Naim dealers so I have the opportunity to see and hear. Which I haven't done in a couple of decades until very recently. I haven't heard a "chrome bumper" Naim in a very long time so I can't compare confidently.
 
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ND555 £12000

I've auditioned one of these. Naim's top streamer.
I don't appreciate the point of the display as it is much easier to operate it from a tablet. Couldn't Naim omit the display and supply a tablet with it instead? Displays generate a lot of electrical noise too.
 

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.....If I place the caps in reading direction there is a black ring to the right?
I guess that C9 should have ground (black mark) towards top of the PCB, and C5 towards right side (side of Trafo)......But some confirmation would be nice!
All the polarised capacitors are shown on the PCB with a white blocked out section over the negative terminal location. Tantalum caps have their (+) terminal identified (+) and aluminium electrolytics have the (-) terminal identified by the large stripe (black, white or any contrasting colour) on the plastic sleeve.
 
Hello everybody.
My first post here ans so I got a question.
Today I just finished my NAP200 clone build. But I got a hum in both chanels. Actualy it is not a 50Hz hum, but sounds like some kind of oscillation. And it changes then I'm holding speaker cables, sometimes it's near audible. I heard that Naim requier some kind of special speaker cables. And I conect speaker with very short cables to test (50cm). So what can I do with this and maybe someone got same problem?
Second question about bias. I put a 2k2 trim pot instead 1kohm that was in this kit and now I can't set the bias more than 8mA. So maybe I should put 1kohm back?
 
All the polarised capacitors are shown on the PCB with a white blocked out section over the negative terminal location. Tantalum caps have their (+) terminal identified (+) and aluminium electrolytics have the (-) terminal identified by the large stripe (black, white or any contrasting colour) on the plastic sleeve.

Hi Ian
Thanks for the detailed answer.
I didn't now that not all capacitors are polarized, but I do now ::D
 
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Hello everybody.
......So what can I do with this and maybe someone got same problem?
Second question about bias. I put a 2k2 trim pot instead 1kohm that was in this kit and now I can't set the bias more than 8mA. So maybe I should put 1kohm back?
Hi and welcome to the forum, Azatto28.
I had no problem with the 2k2 trimpot and substituting with only 1k will reduce the adjustment range, probably as you found. If you read earlier posts that referred to NAP140 kits, the Vbe multiplier design is not quite the same on NAP200. Also, some GLZOZONE kits are just wrongly specified for some unexplained reason.

Points to check for NAP200 bias setting:
1. The Vbe multiplier transistors are mounted on the copper side of the PCB. This allows better control and faster settling of bias which is very slow (like 20 minutes) with older models.
2. To set bias, the amplifier must be correctly mounted in its case, closed but with loose cover plate. Power-up and allow the amplifier to warm up without signal or output connections. The thick bottom plate of the case should feel slightly warm, when you can briefly open the case, fit test leads to the appropriate 0R22 resistors and quickly measure and set the voltage at 5-7 mV. Close the case again but leave the test leads in place and observe any drift in measurement. Re-adjust the setting as necessary, after allowing settling time again.
Note, if the amplifier is oscillating it will warm up, regardless of bias current and this will interfere with with bias setting. Fix this first.

I assume your stability problem is the same as discussed many times at UK audio forums. Fit minimum 3.5m lengths of the specified speaker cable and don't try to operate the amplifier without it or a similar net reactance at the output. However, that requirement can actually be met by any narrow spaced twinflex - even 8A rated flex intended for domestic lighting applications (known variously as figure 8 flex, lamp cord etc) will work OK for the purpose.

FWIW, I think what happened was unusual. I have powered up Naim clones and originals with and without any output connections but no related oscillation, so I suspect you may have some other issues, like wiring location or perhaps wrong component grades. Follow the wiring layout shown in the original and 2016 pics of the Caowei kits for layout guidance.