I think that's would be an interesting feature if 2 units will able to be configured as bi-amping system i.e. one TOY work for tweeters stereo pair, another one for woofers. Why not, if our GUI application able to make LPF/HPF? I even ready to add there an APF for phase alignment or/and maybe good idea to allow text entering biquads coefficients (RIAA curve, for example, need only one biquad). Hence, to the AUX boards list need to add SPDIF IN/OUT, and ADC IN/SPDIF OUT boards as well. With BT streaming AUX board, totally will be 3 options. BT board seems need to add few radio buttons to implement TWS setup, however, hard to believe if someone who likes BT stream compressed 16/44.1, will play with biamping.
Guys, it seems I got a good idea, finally! Why I started that project from the point that USB highres audio is an ideal source for me? Because every one of us has an old PC laptop, and can install Cmedia USB driver. However, MAC users could be less happy with USB audio because Apple inc. restricting the audio resolution there at 16bit for copyright, the same time, 99% computers whatever PC or MAC, and blueray's has HDMI with 24/192 resolution and doesn't need install any driver! Furthermore, we can buy WiFi HDMI dongle for $10 and get elegant Airplay ability as well. What do you think about the migration idea from USB to HDMI?
Anycast Ezcast M2 Plus Mini Wi-fi Display Dongle Receiver 1080p Airmirror Dlna Airplay Miracast Tv Receiver Dongle - Buy Dlna Miracast Airplay Allsharecast Dongle,Micracast Tv Dongle,Ezcast Wifi Airplay Dongle Product on Alibaba.com
Anycast Ezcast M2 Plus Mini Wi-fi Display Dongle Receiver 1080p Airmirror Dlna Airplay Miracast Tv Receiver Dongle - Buy Dlna Miracast Airplay Allsharecast Dongle,Micracast Tv Dongle,Ezcast Wifi Airplay Dongle Product on Alibaba.com
I just tested the SPDIF/Toslink board on PCM9211, works fine, and fully auto accepts 16-24bit 44.1-192kHz. SPDIF_TX always sending TAS5558 input data whatever SPDIF_RX/ADC or USB input selected. So it allows using more than one HiFi-TOYs together for bi/tri-amping, i.e. in-serial USB/RX1->AMP1->TX1->RX2->AMP2 etc. Due to PCM9211 has an ADC onboard, not so cool one S/N -101db 24/96, I decided to use it just in case(not sure if someone needs it if already has USB/SPDIF-Toslink). Anytime when SPDIF_RX isn't detected, HiFi-TOY automatically play from analog inputs(both 3.5mm Jacks could be an analog input either SPDIF_RX or SPDIF_TX). I think it is crazy compact design again(39x24mm the same as BT_stream board which could be optionally installed instead of SPDIF board), as the whole HiFi-TOY actually 😉
Attachments
Last edited:
In my opinion, it is costly. I paid 248RMB for 5pcs 4 layers 1oz PCB 127x100mm, i.e. $7.87 for each. Of course, MP would be much cheaper but R&D is still expensive. The same PCB supplier 39x24 1oz 2 layers 5pcs 45RMB or $1.4 per each it is crazy costly! 3.5mm jack with Toslink RX/TX 8RMB/pcs, PCM9211 12RMB etc.
PS: 200x2 LOL, this one is cheap indeed https://detail.1688.com/offer/977208078.html?spm=a261b.2187593.1998088710.30.3cf26d38IGzREf
PS: 200x2 LOL, this one is cheap indeed https://detail.1688.com/offer/977208078.html?spm=a261b.2187593.1998088710.30.3cf26d38IGzREf
Last edited:
I don't think that is expensive for such small number of boards, i'm sure that would go down a lot when you get into 10's or 100's of boards. You are still outside what is now pretty standard size of 100x100mm and 4 layer at that, which is still not that mainstream
As for the link, it's not a problem this days to get such power, but quality is something else. Also you still need power supply. And it is only 30-40w, nothing impressive. You could get that for single ICs some 15 years or more back. Nothing like what you made
As for the link, it's not a problem this days to get such power, but quality is something else. Also you still need power supply. And it is only 30-40w, nothing impressive. You could get that for single ICs some 15 years or more back. Nothing like what you made
China getting more and more expensive with the same production culture/quality. Many of my neighbors americans, europeans gonna leave China soon for that reason. I believe, Ukraine has a good chance be a competitor for China soon, because already a lot cheaper and AVG culture level/education probably a few times higher.
You know what I see also, how much has the general knowledge and what people do only on this forum, go up. 10 years back no one even had a dream of such project. You should be proud of what you have in front of you.
And if you will sell this, the biggest problem I see is customer acquisition and potencial education on this high end topic, to sell many units. Since most are just for cheap and that it kinda works
And if you will sell this, the biggest problem I see is customer acquisition and potencial education on this high end topic, to sell many units. Since most are just for cheap and that it kinda works
I did nothing special yet, and not all at all is perfect in that project so far(for instance, 1/2 max power THD@6.6kHz of my custom noise-shaper is still bad) 😉 If someone may overtake audio industry so easy and by the first attempt, it is rather audio industry problem. I really feel that the idea to split an integrated amp to amp and external SMPS it's kinda moron's decision. How was it possible after 50 years of HiFi progress, after using special huge capacitors tanks etc in 2018 migrate for $4/pcs LED purpose power-brick + cheap connector and cable?
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?sp...&id=560294256028&ns=1&abbucket=19#detail[/url
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?sp...&id=560294256028&ns=1&abbucket=19#detail[/url
This is great! If one could use them as one channel units and use 4 of them for a stereo, 2-way system fed by 4 Toslink cables, one could make the analogue path very short and get out of the cable "worry" 🙂
Or use 1 for L and one for R - still 2 way speakers.
Configuration flexibility. LP/HP + Eq please.
//
TNT, it's not a big deal to add one more 3 position switch(Stereo/Left/Right) into the app, however, we prefer to keep things as simple as possible. Look, one unit will play exactly the same data as the second one, both of them in stereo. You add LPF to one and tie there woofers, and HPF to another one + some APF for phase correction this one for tweeters. The same idea works fine with tri-amping. That's it. IMHO, it's better than 3 position switch idea 😉
This project looks very good - I was planning to try out another DDX/FDA type amp with the eventual aim of using two or three of some bargain priced amps with a miniDSP nanoDIGI to bi or tri amp. I love the idea of an app to control 3 amps - sweet.
The psu issue is part of the open/closed loop issue? It would seem smart and simple to design a psu that uses multiple mosfets to pass enough current and an op amp to regulate the voltage? Just a suggestion 🙂
The psu issue is part of the open/closed loop issue? It would seem smart and simple to design a psu that uses multiple mosfets to pass enough current and an op amp to regulate the voltage? Just a suggestion 🙂
Nanoloop, what I call the HiFi-TOY MK1 has no one op amp, and actually, the S/N result with my SMPS + open loop amp -102db, that's damn good for such tiny size of true integrated amp with power supply onboard. And EMI will be fine as well, right now I do some tweak of LLC magnetics(see attached) 😉
PS: HiFi-TOY has 2 SMPS, one is 5W flyback for standby, and second one resonant LLC for the power amp.
PS: HiFi-TOY has 2 SMPS, one is 5W flyback for standby, and second one resonant LLC for the power amp.
Attachments
Last edited:
That is really impressive! I hope you are able to get these on the market, I like the idea of power amplifier boards with SMPS included.
Hi there, I nearly ready to order tooling for the heatsink, and now extrusion one. 15 times cheaper tooling vs diecast - what can I do? So I trying to compensate an inherent simplicity of, in fact, 2D extrusion model to make it attractive enough. That's not easy, at least with my zero experienced ID skills. So, today I'll show the shape(top view) and rear panel only, they look good to me, about the front panel I still(2 months actually!) not sure. Yesterday some my USA friend offered me to stylisation the front panel for Pro-audio 2U rack-mount, with two tiny handles, he likes Peavey rock-style ID )) Another friend, Englishman, offered me to add ultrafine metal mesh(kinda high-tech element) to the front panel, in his opinion it always looks great and expensive. I prepared the version with fine laser marking(.2mm), to me it's nice but my neighbour-englishman said: the front panel looks too busy.. So I'm not sure and looking for new ideas, and this is damn interesting work 😉
Attachments
I have no objections, heatsinks are more for the looks right? You probably don't need them as such
Hi Luka, actually, the machine running very warm(250W output with about 80% efficiency i.e. over 60W dissipation), and fins are not only for stylisation in a look of classic HiFi class A amp. Furthermore, I'd like to plan 400W or so version in the same case&tooling. The case dimensions are still crazy small 157.5x108x35mm so fins are there.
Last edited:
- Status
- Not open for further replies.