About the FET's in the output-stage: The 2SK2013/2SJ313 are about 8 times the cost of the FQP3P20/FQP3N30... Are they also 8 times better? I can't imagine...
Can somebody comment on that, please?
btw, I understood the IRF9610/IRF610 are likely to be replaced by IRF9610N/IRF610N (switching applications) by the suppliers, so I won't buy them.
Can somebody comment on that, please?
btw, I understood the IRF9610/IRF610 are likely to be replaced by IRF9610N/IRF610N (switching applications) by the suppliers, so I won't buy them.
I've built a Whammy with K2013/J313 and with IRF610/9610. The Toshiba mosfets might be a bit better, but I'm honestly not sure if that was confirmation bias or an actual change in sound quality.
Wayne has verified that the FQP parts also work perfectly and sound great. Every time I've used them in different projects I have been extremely happy.
So the short answer is this - use whatever Mosfet you can easily get, and experiment with opamps for a change in the amp's sound.
Wayne has verified that the FQP parts also work perfectly and sound great. Every time I've used them in different projects I have been extremely happy.
So the short answer is this - use whatever Mosfet you can easily get, and experiment with opamps for a change in the amp's sound.
Some discussion in the few posts around this one re Fairchild mosfets:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/271662-passdiy-headphone-amp-available-80.html#post5159820
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/271662-passdiy-headphone-amp-available-80.html#post5159820
Thank you very much for answering my question so quickly 😉I've built a Whammy with K2013/J313 and with IRF610/9610. The Toshiba mosfets might be a bit better, but I'm honestly not sure if that was confirmation bias or an actual change in sound quality.
Wayne has verified that the FQP parts also work perfectly and sound great. Every time I've used them in different projects I have been extremely happy.
So the short answer is this - use whatever Mosfet you can easily get, and experiment with opamps for a change in the amp's sound.
Guess I'll go for the FQP fet's...
Hello all,
I am in the process of building this amp. One question, I'd love to add a pair of analog VU meters to the box. I am planning on using an analog VU Meter driver something like this:
Yuan-Jing U Meter Driver PCB Board Stereo for Two VU Meters
How (where) should I get the audio signal to input to the VU meter driver without impacting audio quality?
Thanks
I am in the process of building this amp. One question, I'd love to add a pair of analog VU meters to the box. I am planning on using an analog VU Meter driver something like this:
Yuan-Jing U Meter Driver PCB Board Stereo for Two VU Meters
How (where) should I get the audio signal to input to the VU meter driver without impacting audio quality?
Thanks
Just make sure it has fairly high impedance and it will have very little effect on the sound. Most meters take very little to drive.
if someone wnats to try something new...
i've been toying with 2sk1058/j162 a bit for f4 duty and it is tough for me to assess them a weakness, whether i'm using my speakers or headphones.
i have not compared them directly to a pair of toshiba k2013/j313 directly, but i'm sure they would be very fair competitors
i've been toying with 2sk1058/j162 a bit for f4 duty and it is tough for me to assess them a weakness, whether i'm using my speakers or headphones.
i have not compared them directly to a pair of toshiba k2013/j313 directly, but i'm sure they would be very fair competitors
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C12, C17, C22, and C25
Could someone enlighten me on the function of C12, C17, C22, and C25? Whether bi-polars (like the Nichicon ES) could be a better suited for these positions? And whether they could be optional?
Could someone enlighten me on the function of C12, C17, C22, and C25? Whether bi-polars (like the Nichicon ES) could be a better suited for these positions? And whether they could be optional?
> if someone wnats to try something new...i've been toying with 2sk1058/j162
Different pinout, and you need to go above 120mA bis for negative tempco (self stabilising).
See UTHAiM -- Just for Fun
Patrick
Different pinout, and you need to go above 120mA bis for negative tempco (self stabilising).
See UTHAiM -- Just for Fun
Patrick
1)indeed different pinout i should have mentioned...still.... may be worth the mod.
2) indeed that topology in the thread you linked is worthy of attention. I'm currently auditioning different variations (output mosfets,mirrors,feedback,output mosfet buffers,etc)....at the moment i am evaluating a through hole «euvl diamond buffer» 😉
Also i 've been trying regulated series supplies for the output stage....it's tricky :they color the sound but gives better «dynamics» compared to cap bank.
Ok enough thread jacking
2) indeed that topology in the thread you linked is worthy of attention. I'm currently auditioning different variations (output mosfets,mirrors,feedback,output mosfet buffers,etc)....at the moment i am evaluating a through hole «euvl diamond buffer» 😉
Also i 've been trying regulated series supplies for the output stage....it's tricky :they color the sound but gives better «dynamics» compared to cap bank.
Ok enough thread jacking

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Great Litte Amp
Wayne, thanks a lot for this great little amp!
My build has got opa2604 and K2013/J313 Fets and does really sound great. Great detail, great stage, great clarity, great bass, great rythm => great sound :-D
Will post a pic later.
Cheers
Ernst
Wayne, thanks a lot for this great little amp!
My build has got opa2604 and K2013/J313 Fets and does really sound great. Great detail, great stage, great clarity, great bass, great rythm => great sound :-D
Will post a pic later.
Cheers
Ernst
Coupling caps.
The UES are the preferred cap for that position.
No.
😀
Thanks.
Wayne, thanks a lot for this great little amp!
My build has got opa2604 and K2013/J313 Fets and does really sound great. Great detail, great stage, great clarity, great bass, great rythm => great sound :-D
Will post a pic later.
Cheers
Ernst
Wow, where did you source the FET’s from?
I have sourced them long ago from a DIYAudio member. Currently Lubincalvin is selling some amongst other nice thingies.Wow, where did you source the FET’s from?
Hi All. I am going to build this as my first DIY amp, and have a question regarding the BOM. C20 .22/250V Transformer Snubber is a bit unclear to me, can someone please point me to a particular product?
Will this do the trick:
158X224K Cornell Dubilier - CDE | Mouser New Zealand
539-158X224K
Thanks!
Will this do the trick:
158X224K Cornell Dubilier - CDE | Mouser New Zealand
539-158X224K
Thanks!
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After some digging I found one that looks good. LS is 22.5 vs 22 but should work. Mouser - 594-2222-336-10224 X1 rated.
6J6 I saw you used 35v Nichicon FGs for C3, C4, C9 and C28. Assuming 50V parts are for additional headroom/longevity but not mandatory? I'd like to try to shoehorn some Silmics in there. Also, what is the value of the orange capacitor referencing safety earth and signal ground. TIA!!
Apologies for my last post, this has already been answered.
Finished my build tonight, thanks @6L6 for the quick replies and help. It turned out awesome.
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Looks great, what's the case?
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