Thanks for explaining in more detail, Steef & Mark.
Being a relative newbie in DIY audio and not an EE (although I know Ohm's law), it makes sense now. This will be my first build with a transformer "inside" the circuit.
PS I've built B1 (p2p) and ACA (own PCB) so far, but no transformers in those, and everything worked first time. So, I'm adding knowledge at a fast rate.
Being a relative newbie in DIY audio and not an EE (although I know Ohm's law), it makes sense now. This will be my first build with a transformer "inside" the circuit.
PS I've built B1 (p2p) and ACA (own PCB) so far, but no transformers in those, and everything worked first time. So, I'm adding knowledge at a fast rate.
I learned the most working on the things that didn't work first time ... 😀
Although, in a former life, I had been a physicist ... The most challenging experiments for us always were those that worked the first time, and then it took you half a year (or ... sometimes longer) to make it work again a second time, and we had a hard time to explain what was going on ... 😛
Best regards,
Claas
Although, in a former life, I had been a physicist ... The most challenging experiments for us always were those that worked the first time, and then it took you half a year (or ... sometimes longer) to make it work again a second time, and we had a hard time to explain what was going on ... 😛
Best regards,
Claas
That's better than my method, I usually learn the most by trying to fix things I've broken.
I've said it before but I really like this amp.
Yesterday evening I was working on the computer while listening to music on it and when I was done I just sat there and continued to listen. It isn't even really a comfortable chair and I had a dozen things elsewhere I needed to do but I just couldn't bring myself to turn it off.
Sometimes life is just good.
Yesterday evening I was working on the computer while listening to music on it and when I was done I just sat there and continued to listen. It isn't even really a comfortable chair and I had a dozen things elsewhere I needed to do but I just couldn't bring myself to turn it off.
Sometimes life is just good.
Hi everyone, I'm getting rid of the last of my inventory of "M2x" PCBoards over in this thread, in case anyone might be interested.
M2x is a Pass Labs M2 amplifier, with the Toshiba JFET "front end input buffer" circuitry located on a daughter card. Builders can stuff and solder Toshiba JFETs (or the Linear Systems equivalents) and get a regular, stock M2. In addition, M2x also includes four other daughter cards with four other front end input buffer circuit designs, which all use current production parts that you can buy today from Mouser, Element14, etc. Completely the builder's choice. Since the daughter cards are field swappable, build more than one.
<end of interruption> 😱
M2x is a Pass Labs M2 amplifier, with the Toshiba JFET "front end input buffer" circuitry located on a daughter card. Builders can stuff and solder Toshiba JFETs (or the Linear Systems equivalents) and get a regular, stock M2. In addition, M2x also includes four other daughter cards with four other front end input buffer circuit designs, which all use current production parts that you can buy today from Mouser, Element14, etc. Completely the builder's choice. Since the daughter cards are field swappable, build more than one.
<end of interruption> 😱
I used the search function, but did not find the info.
If one was to substitute the lm385 for another 1.2V voltage reference, for whatever reason, the best sounding is "I had it in my drawer" vs. "I want to use fancy parts".... is the choice between a shunt regulated or series voltage reference of any importance... thinking like LT1005 (,) not sure about the parts ref.
Thanks,
Max
If one was to substitute the lm385 for another 1.2V voltage reference, for whatever reason, the best sounding is "I had it in my drawer" vs. "I want to use fancy parts".... is the choice between a shunt regulated or series voltage reference of any importance... thinking like LT1005 (,) not sure about the parts ref.
Thanks,
Max
best to not alter construction , to use another sort of voltage reference
considering it's role , it is nothing else than 1V25 zener diode
choose whichever type you want , as long it is "precision zener" part
considering it's role , it is nothing else than 1V25 zener diode
choose whichever type you want , as long it is "precision zener" part
It's precision, 0.3%. Just wondering about the shunt / series part. The datasheet mentions pin/pin replacement for lmx85 series...
Merci Demi-dieu!
Thanks ZM
Merci Demi-dieu!
Thanks ZM
there is no confusion
if part is , in any way , declared as "precision zener" type , it is exactly shunt reg part
if part is , in any way , declared as "precision zener" type , it is exactly shunt reg part
I am going to build M2 and I'm looking for chassis.
Could this one be suitable ?
The size of the heatsinks is 360 x 195 x 50.
Internal dimensions 240 x 360 x 188.
Boitier DIY 100% Aluminium ventile avec Vu-metre & dissipateurs 396x360x195mm - Audiophonics
Could this one be suitable ?
The size of the heatsinks is 360 x 195 x 50.
Internal dimensions 240 x 360 x 188.
Boitier DIY 100% Aluminium ventile avec Vu-metre & dissipateurs 396x360x195mm - Audiophonics
Attachments
Following from Jims comments in a related thread, 4U (~180mm)) tall and 300 mm deep would be normal value, as would 3U (~135mm) tall and 400mm deep. I’d say those sinks should be plenty big. Nice looking box!
not taking in account that case is certainly non-authorized knock-off of PL chassis ........ you can squeeze (thermally) 4 channels of M2 in it ..... and still having some leeway
If one wanted to make a smaller M2 (less heat), are there better choices of mosfets?
thinking of something you could put in a 2U 300mm mini disipante chassis - so dissipation needs to be more like 45W per channel
thinking of something you could put in a 2U 300mm mini disipante chassis - so dissipation needs to be more like 45W per channel
can't go wrong with 2SJ201/2SK1530
for your lesser needs , smaller brothers will do nicely - 2SJ200/2SK1529
for your lesser needs , smaller brothers will do nicely - 2SJ200/2SK1529
Tried searching this thread before posting this but has anyone tried using the Mundorf EVO Silver gold 10uF capacitors in the C2 position?
Is that worth the investment?
Is that worth the investment?
Affordable Elna Silmic II polarised 10 uF is recommended. You can bypass this with some 1 uF MKP or MKC for example.
Imho better spend money on the good choke filtered psu or high quality psu capacitors.
Small cost nice sound upgrade is a change R13, R14 0.47R source resitors to Vishay | Mills.
Actually new product in stock Diyers can buy from Mouser for 2.79 US$ cheaper if compare to Audiophile boutiques prices: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/mra-1152852.pdf
MRA-05R4700FE12 Vishay / Mills | Mouser
Have a nice Sunday 🙂
Imho better spend money on the good choke filtered psu or high quality psu capacitors.
Small cost nice sound upgrade is a change R13, R14 0.47R source resitors to Vishay | Mills.
Actually new product in stock Diyers can buy from Mouser for 2.79 US$ cheaper if compare to Audiophile boutiques prices: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/mra-1152852.pdf
MRA-05R4700FE12 Vishay / Mills | Mouser
Have a nice Sunday 🙂
