I do admire the talented experimenter...
For me, the "diy" part is mostly vicarious. Other than a few pathetic DIY attempts, to match my lack of skills - equipment - knowledge, I had the "misfortune" to get a pair of beat-up Yorkville Unity U-15 a few years ago. This has completely stymied my desire to build a competent Unity/Synergy (an impossible task for me, no doubt), given that I have a real one to bastardize 😀
For me, the "diy" part is mostly vicarious. Other than a few pathetic DIY attempts, to match my lack of skills - equipment - knowledge, I had the "misfortune" to get a pair of beat-up Yorkville Unity U-15 a few years ago. This has completely stymied my desire to build a competent Unity/Synergy (an impossible task for me, no doubt), given that I have a real one to bastardize 😀
Can we see this on facebook?
Footage from hosting 3000 people on our mobile artcar. Two main SynTripPs running somewhere near RMS, and two for filling in front at -10db.
Bass provided by two XOC1 TH118 with B&C 18SW115.
pink opening - Robert Chan Photography
Footage from hosting 3000 people on our mobile artcar. Two main SynTripPs running somewhere near RMS, and two for filling in front at -10db.
Bass provided by two XOC1 TH118 with B&C 18SW115.
pink opening - Robert Chan Photography
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I would recommend to step up to a 1.4" 2" CD preferable with more powerhandling and lower frequentie crossover start point. It saves a lot of complicated design and high compression of phase-plugs on the mid drivers section.
Since HR now supports simulations of multiple entry horn it is a good time to sim the Syntrip and try different driver combinations. Seeing all of you are making time and planning to do cad's etc. better make it awesome!
A 'few' suggestions for CD drivers in different price ranges and magnet types:
2" CD:
B&C DE75PTN 2"|220w cont.|500-18khz|crosover:0.8khz
B&C DE95TN 2"|220w cont.|500-18khz|crossover:0.8khz
B&C DE985TN 2"|220w cont. |500 - 18khz| crossover: 0.8khz
B&C D85TN 2"|220w cont.|500-18khz|crossover: 1khz
B&C DE1050 2"|280w cont.| 500-20khz|crossover:0.8khz
Beyma CP-800 2"|200w pp > 500hz |500-20khz|crossover: 500hz > 12db/oct
Beyma CP-750 2"| 140w pp > 800hz 12/db|600-20khz|crossover: 800hz> 12db/oct
Beyma SMC-60
Eminence PSD3006 2"|100w aes >800hz|600hz-20khz|crossover 800hz> 12db/oct.
Eminence N320T 2"|100w aes > 800hz|600hz-20khz|crossover: 800hz > 12db/oct.
Faital Pro HF20AT 2"|90w aes > 0.9khz|500-18khz|crossover:0.9khz >12db/oct.
Faital Pro HF201 2"|
1.4" CD:
Beyma CD-14ND 1.4"|120w pp. > 0.8khz|0.6-17khz|crossover: 0.8khz > 12db/octave
Beyma CP-855ND 1.4"|200w pp. > 500hz|0.5-20khz|crossover:0.5 > 12db/oct.
Beyma CP-755Ti 1.4"|140w pp. > 0.8khz|0.6-20khz|crossover: 800hz > 12b/oct.
Eminence PSD3014 1.4"|100w aes 800hz>|800hz-20khz|crossover:800hz> 12db/oct.
Eminence N314T 1.4"|100w aes 800hz>|800hz-20khz|crossover:800hz > 12db/oct.
Faital Pro HF144 1.4"|80w aes >0.9khz|0.7-18khz|crossover: 0.9khz > 12db/oct.
Faital Pro HF14AT 1.4"|90w aes > 0.9khz|0.5-18khz|crossover: 0.9khz > 12db/oct.
Faital Pro HF141 1.4|100w aes > 0.9khz|0.5-18khz|crossover:0.9khz >12db/oct.
Since HR now supports simulations of multiple entry horn it is a good time to sim the Syntrip and try different driver combinations. Seeing all of you are making time and planning to do cad's etc. better make it awesome!
A 'few' suggestions for CD drivers in different price ranges and magnet types:
2" CD:
B&C DE75PTN 2"|220w cont.|500-18khz|crosover:0.8khz
B&C DE95TN 2"|220w cont.|500-18khz|crossover:0.8khz
B&C DE985TN 2"|220w cont. |500 - 18khz| crossover: 0.8khz
B&C D85TN 2"|220w cont.|500-18khz|crossover: 1khz
B&C DE1050 2"|280w cont.| 500-20khz|crossover:0.8khz
Beyma CP-800 2"|200w pp > 500hz |500-20khz|crossover: 500hz > 12db/oct
Beyma CP-750 2"| 140w pp > 800hz 12/db|600-20khz|crossover: 800hz> 12db/oct
Beyma SMC-60
Eminence PSD3006 2"|100w aes >800hz|600hz-20khz|crossover 800hz> 12db/oct.
Eminence N320T 2"|100w aes > 800hz|600hz-20khz|crossover: 800hz > 12db/oct.
Faital Pro HF20AT 2"|90w aes > 0.9khz|500-18khz|crossover:0.9khz >12db/oct.
Faital Pro HF201 2"|
1.4" CD:
Beyma CD-14ND 1.4"|120w pp. > 0.8khz|0.6-17khz|crossover: 0.8khz > 12db/octave
Beyma CP-855ND 1.4"|200w pp. > 500hz|0.5-20khz|crossover:0.5 > 12db/oct.
Beyma CP-755Ti 1.4"|140w pp. > 0.8khz|0.6-20khz|crossover: 800hz > 12b/oct.
Eminence PSD3014 1.4"|100w aes 800hz>|800hz-20khz|crossover:800hz> 12db/oct.
Eminence N314T 1.4"|100w aes 800hz>|800hz-20khz|crossover:800hz > 12db/oct.
Faital Pro HF144 1.4"|80w aes >0.9khz|0.7-18khz|crossover: 0.9khz > 12db/oct.
Faital Pro HF14AT 1.4"|90w aes > 0.9khz|0.5-18khz|crossover: 0.9khz > 12db/oct.
Faital Pro HF141 1.4|100w aes > 0.9khz|0.5-18khz|crossover:0.9khz >12db/oct.
SynTripp home version
One is ready.
It's sounds FAN-TAS-TIC!
Trust me. I have lot's of stuff to compare.
It's like a top of the line BMW - it feels you. Any signal you send there will momentarily and adequately responded. Very natural and coherent sound. No compression or artifact signs at all.
Voices and instrument separation just unbelievable. Beautiful after-sounds! I thought it's impossible without of full horn system, I was wrong!
Now I think it possibly could replace ultimate full horn system (I need to measured it and find out the LF and UHF solution for it).
The DSP: LF section - HP 750Hz BW24dB gain 0dB . HF section - LP 630Hz LR24dB gain -14dB.
Thank you, Art!
I call this version Art I🙂.
One is ready.
It's sounds FAN-TAS-TIC!
Trust me. I have lot's of stuff to compare.
It's like a top of the line BMW - it feels you. Any signal you send there will momentarily and adequately responded. Very natural and coherent sound. No compression or artifact signs at all.
Voices and instrument separation just unbelievable. Beautiful after-sounds! I thought it's impossible without of full horn system, I was wrong!
Now I think it possibly could replace ultimate full horn system (I need to measured it and find out the LF and UHF solution for it).
The DSP: LF section - HP 750Hz BW24dB gain 0dB . HF section - LP 630Hz LR24dB gain -14dB.
Thank you, Art!
I call this version Art I🙂.
Attachments
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Hi Sergey,
They look really cool! I that the JBL 2383 Theatre horn with the JBL 2435H (Be)?
Har far down in frequency do they load, and how do they compare to the PSE 144 (I think I could see them behind your new toys🙂.
Thanks!
Best regards
Peter
They look really cool! I that the JBL 2383 Theatre horn with the JBL 2435H (Be)?
Har far down in frequency do they load, and how do they compare to the PSE 144 (I think I could see them behind your new toys🙂.
Thanks!
Best regards
Peter
Hello Peter.
I didn't measure them and didn't compare this setup (heavy modified Behringer 2496 with 2A3 amp/Tango transformers), yet to PSE144. PSE144 works very good from 450hz up and have that unique qualities that we associate with Synergy sound , but I believe this single version of SynTripp works fine from 200hz up. Don't forget the components using in this "Art I" (If Art will aloud me to call it) version are the top of the line and cost way more (8-10 times?) than in PSE144. Off course it makes audible difference.
I didn't measure them and didn't compare this setup (heavy modified Behringer 2496 with 2A3 amp/Tango transformers), yet to PSE144. PSE144 works very good from 450hz up and have that unique qualities that we associate with Synergy sound , but I believe this single version of SynTripp works fine from 200hz up. Don't forget the components using in this "Art I" (If Art will aloud me to call it) version are the top of the line and cost way more (8-10 times?) than in PSE144. Off course it makes audible difference.
Sergey,Hello Peter.
Don't forget the components using in this "Art I" (If Art will aloud me to call it) version are the top of the line and cost way more (8-10 times?) than in PSE144. Off course it makes audible difference.
You have my permission to call your virtual single source point speaker anything that pleases you 🙂
Is it pronounced "Art One", or "Art Eye"?
Art
Hi Sergey,
Thanks a lot for responding! Which mid drivers are you using? (This may have been stated previously, in case I apologize..).
Thanks!
Best regards
Peter
Thanks a lot for responding! Which mid drivers are you using? (This may have been stated previously, in case I apologize..).
Thanks!
Best regards
Peter
Hello Peter.
I didn't measure them and didn't compare this setup (heavy modified Behringer 2496 with 2A3 amp/Tango transformers), yet to PSE144. PSE144 works very good from 450hz up and have that unique qualities that we associate with Synergy sound , but I believe this single version of SynTripp works fine from 200hz up. Don't forget the components using in this "Art I" (If Art will aloud me to call it) version are the top of the line and cost way more (8-10 times?) than in PSE144. Off course it makes audible difference.
Hi Sergey,
Thanks a lot for responding! Which mid drivers are you using? (This may have been stated previously, in case I apologize..).
Thanks!
Best regards
Peter
Midbass driver is B&C 10CL51 as in original SynTripp, but one only. For home use there is no need for two MB drivers.
Thanks!
Best regards
Peter
Best regards
Peter
Midbass driver is B&C 10CL51 as in original SynTripp, but one only. For home use there is no need for two MB drivers.
One more thing.
If you want to build Art One version with the same driver - JBL2435HPL do not forget to reverse polarity.
JBL Professional Specific: 2435HPL - the black terminal is considered to be the positive terminal. (positive voltage to black terminal gives outward cone/diaphragm motion).
If you want to build Art One version with the same driver - JBL2435HPL do not forget to reverse polarity.
JBL Professional Specific: 2435HPL - the black terminal is considered to be the positive terminal. (positive voltage to black terminal gives outward cone/diaphragm motion).
Rough measurement.
Untreated room.
Speakers on the floor, vertical position.
1m to mike.
I tried to measured them at 1m high, got horrible kind of saw graphic from 350hz up and nothing below that...
Lot's of questions.
Untreated room.
Speakers on the floor, vertical position.
1m to mike.
I tried to measured them at 1m high, got horrible kind of saw graphic from 350hz up and nothing below that...
Lot's of questions.
Attachments
Rough measurement.
Untreated room.
Speakers on the floor, vertical position.
1m to mike.
I tried to measured them at 1m high, got horrible kind of saw graphic from 350hz up and nothing below that...
Lot's of questions.
Get them outside. A fair chance some of those freaky bits will be your room reflections.
I'm sure it is.
Changed the DSP setting to B&C - 80hz BUT12 and L-R24 800hz. JBL 957hz L-R24. It sings!!! The sound is huge, no sign of compression, it simply beautiful!
I wonder how he got B&C to the xover point without of plug?
Changed the DSP setting to B&C - 80hz BUT12 and L-R24 800hz. JBL 957hz L-R24. It sings!!! The sound is huge, no sign of compression, it simply beautiful!
I wonder how he got B&C to the xover point without of plug?
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8" drivers as depicted in post #654 have considerably less enclosed volume in the throat chamber (VTC) than a 10", so an acoustic crossover of around 1000-1200 Hz is possible without filling the chamber with a cone shape.
The small format BMS HF driver would probably be the weak link around the acoustic crossover, though for home use plenty loud for most.
The small format BMS HF driver would probably be the weak link around the acoustic crossover, though for home use plenty loud for most.
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@Weltersys, how about the Radian 745PB or Radian 835PB, i think they can be good 'bms' alternatives for synergy type builds. The 745PB is not that expensive and can be crossed from 500hz and up.
What do you think?
What do you think?
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