Nelson. thanks for the tips about active crossovers. This is more or less what I have in my OB now (Eminence Beta 15 + Visaton B200). On another thread, you posted values of passive crossover (first order) for your Open baffles:
SAL Full Range Drivers
How would you describe the difference, active vs passive, considering that there is no EQ on the bass with passive crossover? Maybe the 20 mH inductor increases the Qts of the bass driver, thus providing some "equalization"?
Second, question, on that thread, there was a mention of high Qts speakers working in small(er than optimal) boxes. It is about the SAL driver, but a similar principle applies to Visaton B200 that I currently have. So, you mention Negative impedance amplifiers (DF -5).
SAL Full Range Drivers
I haven't seen such an amp on Firstwatt yet.. Any breadcrumb?
Very big Thanks!
SAL Full Range Drivers
How would you describe the difference, active vs passive, considering that there is no EQ on the bass with passive crossover? Maybe the 20 mH inductor increases the Qts of the bass driver, thus providing some "equalization"?
Second, question, on that thread, there was a mention of high Qts speakers working in small(er than optimal) boxes. It is about the SAL driver, but a similar principle applies to Visaton B200 that I currently have. So, you mention Negative impedance amplifiers (DF -5).
SAL Full Range Drivers
I haven't seen such an amp on Firstwatt yet.. Any breadcrumb?
Very big Thanks!
I prefer active, but that's just so I can use up the 200,000 Jfets in stock.
As to the differences between the passive and active examples, the
passive you cite was for an earlier version of the SAL and would need to
be tried on the newer one to be relevant, and there were two versions.
I thought they were acceptable for those wanting to go passive.
Having pretty much wrapped up explorations into OB's, except for some
specific driver examples, I plan to spend more time with sealed boxes -
being easier to mate with active electronics and more friendly to small
rooms, shelves, desktops.
Attachments
Hi Nelson,
Thank you very much for the response. While Open Baffles do have their appeal, they are not for everyone, and certainly not the best chioce for small rooms. On the other hand, I have noticed that properly done sealed boxes can sound very nice and introduce little colorations. I have noticed that oval and sperical closed boxes sound better than rectangular ones. Now I am reading and contemplating about "what makes a good sealed box". So far,a good shape, something along the lines of B&w Nautilus speaker,in order to reduce unwanted backwave reflections. Second, it is good to have a suitable fullrange driver which works well in a selaed box. So far, with most Fostexes and Lowthers it was not the case, but it can be done with the SAL driver or Visaton B200. If I give up Open Baffles, the intent is to build sealed boxes for Visatons. The problem is that they require fairly large box, so maybe I should try some sort of aperiodic. It wold be challenging to make sonething like"drop shaped" aperiodic box. That one could probably go down to at least 80 Hz or lower. BSC would be there for sure. Then 80 Hz and lower would be ideally be covered by big selaed woofers in small boxes . With Linkwitz EQ, of course. Overall, I think it should make for a good sounding system. While on a paper it looks simple, the devil is in the details, and Nelson, you are the master of those details . That's why I eagerly anticipate a new article from you, something about building a nice sounding sealed box fullrange hifi
Regards,
Vix
Thank you very much for the response. While Open Baffles do have their appeal, they are not for everyone, and certainly not the best chioce for small rooms. On the other hand, I have noticed that properly done sealed boxes can sound very nice and introduce little colorations. I have noticed that oval and sperical closed boxes sound better than rectangular ones. Now I am reading and contemplating about "what makes a good sealed box". So far,a good shape, something along the lines of B&w Nautilus speaker,in order to reduce unwanted backwave reflections. Second, it is good to have a suitable fullrange driver which works well in a selaed box. So far, with most Fostexes and Lowthers it was not the case, but it can be done with the SAL driver or Visaton B200. If I give up Open Baffles, the intent is to build sealed boxes for Visatons. The problem is that they require fairly large box, so maybe I should try some sort of aperiodic. It wold be challenging to make sonething like"drop shaped" aperiodic box. That one could probably go down to at least 80 Hz or lower. BSC would be there for sure. Then 80 Hz and lower would be ideally be covered by big selaed woofers in small boxes
. With Linkwitz EQ, of course. Overall, I think it should make for a good sounding system. While on a paper it looks simple, the devil is in the details, and Nelson, you are the master of those details . That's why I eagerly anticipate a new article from you, something about building a nice sounding sealed box fullrange hifi Regards,
Vix
I use our ACA with a number of FR speakers, mainly Fostex & Mark Audio. Scott Dunn’s Frugel-horn XLs (mentioned earlier) were particularly nice. A big surprise was how much they put out when paired with Frugel-Horn Lite with Alpair 5.2eN. Currently using then with Tysen V2 prototypes with passive XO (Fostex FF85wKeN and a pair of Silver Flute W14 in a Woden ML-TL).
dave
I did listen to the 15 inch in the 5.6 cabinet but it sounded better in open baffle.
I have not tried the 10 inch in 5.6 cab yet.
I will get around to doing it though. I already have the 5.6 cabinet just need to make a cut out for the 10 inch driver on another piece of wood.
I've been working between several projects.
I have not tried the 10 inch in 5.6 cab yet.
I will get around to doing it though. I already have the 5.6 cabinet just need to make a cut out for the 10 inch driver on another piece of wood.
I've been working between several projects.
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Which of those get the most play-time?
I finally have a dedicated audio room and am considering moving toward one of Voxative AC-1.6, Lowther PM6A, Cube Audio Fa8, the SAL drivers, or something from Audio Nirvana. Obviously, budget constraints necessitate the inclusion of the last range of drivers... But, how do the rest compare?
I have all those, including the Cubes (on short term loan), Feastrex, Moth,
Seas, Fostex, Mark Audio, Jordan, Tangband, Pioneer, Dayton, Wild Burrow,
L Cao, lastly some 12" Feastrex look-alikes from Taiwan.
Yes, I think that's about it. I had to send some AER's and other L Cao's
on load that had to go back.
Of course those are just the "full range" drivers...
Seas, Fostex, Mark Audio, Jordan, Tangband, Pioneer, Dayton, Wild Burrow,
L Cao, lastly some 12" Feastrex look-alikes from Taiwan.
Yes, I think that's about it. I had to send some AER's and other L Cao's
on load that had to go back.
Of course those are just the "full range" drivers...
I'd like to think that line arrays with their high efficiency are a natural match to anything SIT related. Mine certainly are!
Gallery — Selah Audio
Regards,
Dan
Gallery — Selah Audio
Regards,
Dan
I'd like to think that line arrays with their high efficiency are a natural match to anything SIT related. Mine certainly are!
Gallery — Selah Audio
Regards,
Dan
Gallery — Selah Audio
Regards,
Dan
I forgot to address the question.
FR drivers mounted at the moment: Cubes, Seas, Fostex
I thought Seas were supposed to be really power hungry. They work well with the diy VFET amps?
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We're not getting any younger here you know, we want your listening impressions
I've been wondering about a pair of Alnico Classics myself lately.