Thank you X!
So you just split the output - even easier peasier than I thought. Don't know why I could not get my head around this simple schematic.
So you just split the output - even easier peasier than I thought. Don't know why I could not get my head around this simple schematic.
Hi X thanks for the explanation. So it would not really be applicable to using LiIon 9V batteries due to voltage drop - my inelegant solution is a 100 ohm resistor with a switch. Turn that on first, then the amp...haha....
Would like to try raptor's build but don't know of anywhere locally to order custom PCBs - anyone from Oz want to chime in?
also if anyone is still curious, my first build with the epcos caps (instead of WIMA) did not fit in the tin, the caps were maybe like 1mm too thick
Would like to try raptor's build but don't know of anywhere locally to order custom PCBs - anyone from Oz want to chime in?
also if anyone is still curious, my first build with the epcos caps (instead of WIMA) did not fit in the tin, the caps were maybe like 1mm too thick
Try Seeedstudio or PCBway. Small boards under 100mm x 100mm are $10 for 10. Shipping from China is about $20 though.
Fusion PCB Manufacturing & Prototype PCB Assembly - Seeed Studio
China PCB Prototype & Fabrication Manufacturer - PCB Prototype the Easy Way
X - thanks for those leads. While searching for something totally unrelated I came across another site - elecrow. The prices seem more competitive ($4.90 for 10x 2 sided, postage charged per 10g, working out to be about $5). Here's the link for anyone else interested.
https://www.elecrow.com/special-offer-for-2-layer-10-10cm-max-green-pcb-10pcs.html
Raptor - would you mind taking a look at that link to elecrow and seeing if your zip files would be suitable for me to use to order from that site? (I have no idea about this kind of thing)
Another question - looking at your wiring diagram, why would the boost circuit be connected before the switch? wouldn't this mean it is always powered and draining the battery? why not load-share => PCA => boost + multiplier => V+ of PCA?
Stellarelephant - thanks for your kind offer, will shoot you a PM if ordering from this site doesn't work out/becomes too much of a hassle
https://www.elecrow.com/special-offer-for-2-layer-10-10cm-max-green-pcb-10pcs.html
Raptor - would you mind taking a look at that link to elecrow and seeing if your zip files would be suitable for me to use to order from that site? (I have no idea about this kind of thing)
Another question - looking at your wiring diagram, why would the boost circuit be connected before the switch? wouldn't this mean it is always powered and draining the battery? why not load-share => PCA => boost + multiplier => V+ of PCA?
Stellarelephant - thanks for your kind offer, will shoot you a PM if ordering from this site doesn't work out/becomes too much of a hassle
Glad you are doing the whole Osh thing for the PSU. Looking forward to seeing your new rig once it all comes in. How small of an order can you place with Osh? The Chinese board houses really get you on the shipping, so maybe that costs a whole lot less? A minimum $10 PCB order costs $22 to ship from China.
I'm glad it arrived and you like it!
I did go with a 47uF 25V due to the input voltage being ~18V. At $2ish a pop I didn't really want to test the voltage handling capability of the 100uF 16V caps. However, I would like to know if the cap actually sees 18V, can you still get to the bottom of yours to put a DMM across it XRK?
Fortunately, the board labels will be good when they do release 100uF 25V capacitors in 1210 size. We're just not there yet technologically.
Edit: There isn't a minimum for OSH either, I paid $1.50 for 3x of the cap multiplier boards, shipped... I'm kinda thinking they lost money there. Also on both of the boards there's a little test for silkscreen minimum size (which seems like the 10k/diode name on the cap multiplier board is about as small as they can go without smearing), and a tented via silkscreen overlay - to explain why "1uF" is cut off. Their tents don't fill, but otherwise they're quite good boards, especially for the price.
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Haha that's what I said. I may try cramming two side by side to achieve the same thing, even if one hangs slightly over the board edge, but only if 100uF will make a further improvement in the noise measurements over what 47uF can already do. I'll have no way of knowing, since I can't seem to get my sound card playimg nice with Windows/RMAA. X, you could perhaps test this, no?
Nah, just test whether or not in the PCA (set to 16V input on the MOSFETs, or about 18.5V on the input to the cap mx) that capacitor actually gets more than 16V DC across its terminals. Would be nice to know if people can use 16V rated capacitors or not.
Edit: Might have mistaken your reply to the one above. Oops.
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