Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
SCD: Thanks for the input. How long ago did you build your FXHLs? My idea was to build them as per the plans with baltic birch and just add one additional plank to the front baffle. I was thinking the combination of glue, lots of screws, and the application of a finish coat of some sort would minimize any movement in the hardwood.
It seems straight forward that additional wood/mass might increase the rigidity of the baffle, but I don't want to introduce new problems unnecessarily.
It seems straight forward that additional wood/mass might increase the rigidity of the baffle, but I don't want to introduce new problems unnecessarily.
Hello again Eric:
I built mine last year. If you check post 538 there are a few pictures. As noted ,solid wood single long plank to make front and top panels, side panels are wide single planks. All edges are rounded over to soften the linearity andlook of the design. I added bracing to minimize any possible resonance of the front panel.
Both your idea and Chris's comments work for me.
These are a well design speaker that sound great and look real nice.
I hope this helps
I built mine last year. If you check post 538 there are a few pictures. As noted ,solid wood single long plank to make front and top panels, side panels are wide single planks. All edges are rounded over to soften the linearity andlook of the design. I added bracing to minimize any possible resonance of the front panel.
Both your idea and Chris's comments work for me.
These are a well design speaker that sound great and look real nice.
I hope this helps
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Very nice work, Scott. I remember seeing those when you posted them, but had forgotten about the solid wood construction. I like the "racing stripe" you added to them - very nice. I was thinking about adding an inlaid piece for for contrast. I am still mulling over a few designs in my head, but leaning toward darker woods with a lighter accent piece somewhere.
Good stuff Eric:
I believe woodworking is a way to relax your soul and ease your mind. I have many people to make stuff.
With woodworking I always use the axiom: No matter how it turns out, if you do not like it........ It will still burn.
That is the wonderful thing about woodworking. You can cremate your mistakes to get a final sense of relief.
Take care, send pictures of your adventures.
I believe woodworking is a way to relax your soul and ease your mind. I have many people to make stuff.
With woodworking I always use the axiom: No matter how it turns out, if you do not like it........ It will still burn.
That is the wonderful thing about woodworking. You can cremate your mistakes to get a final sense of relief.
Take care, send pictures of your adventures.
Hi Eric your in central Pa , ? There is a place in Reading pa. That has 3/4 inch Baltic birch marine grade no void 5x5 plywood 13 ply. Industrial plywood of Reading. I have built 2 pair and if you would like to hear mine , I'm in Tamaqua pa. And your local lumber yard can probably order that in for you . It was a little over 100.00 for 2 5'x5' sheets
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Kevner: Thank you for your very gracious offer, I might take you up on it. It looks like you might be 75mins away from where I am - now to find some time (three kids, random travel, summer camps, etc). The place in Reading has a good price on BB - my local place charges $75 per sheet, but is WAY closer than Reading. Little by little...
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Kevner: good to hear. My plan for now is to build as per spec with 18mm baltic birch ply, laminate a 3/4" slab of figured bubinga hardwood on the front, and veneer the top/sides. I'll need to play around with different finish techniques on some scrap until I get the color I am interested in.
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
I have a question about the FHXL plan. I'm trying to move away (slightly) from the traditional "box with square corners" type of thing and wondering if a small modification to the front baffle and top panel would alter the resulting sound too much.
My thought was to extend the front baffle upward by about 1" (thickness of the wood), round the edges of it, and add another piece of wood to the top of the cabinet and contour it so it is thinner at the side and rear edges. Something like the attached image, but not as dramatic - it would only be 3/4" to 1" thick on top.
Would this be an acceptable modification to the plans, or should I just keep the top flat?
My thought was to extend the front baffle upward by about 1" (thickness of the wood), round the edges of it, and add another piece of wood to the top of the cabinet and contour it so it is thinner at the side and rear edges. Something like the attached image, but not as dramatic - it would only be 3/4" to 1" thick on top.
Would this be an acceptable modification to the plans, or should I just keep the top flat?
Attachments
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
I've been making some progress with my build and am now waiting on the arrival of some veneer. The curved top idea is out - I didn't have enough hardwood material to do it the way I wanted and my wife pointed out that we'd not be able to display any trinkets on a curved-top speaker as we do with the current speakers.
I have a question about the felt lining in the plans. Is this stuff soft enough to use: 2HUP3 Felt Sheet, F26, 1/2 In T, 12 x 12 In | eBay? I had some "F7" grade felt left over from another project that is FAR too stiff to bend into a radius around the center divider.
I'm also experimenting with different oils/varnishes for the bubinga hardwood baffles - I think I've found a combination that I like and that works. I'll post a few pictures when they are completed...
I have a question about the felt lining in the plans. Is this stuff soft enough to use: 2HUP3 Felt Sheet, F26, 1/2 In T, 12 x 12 In | eBay? I had some "F7" grade felt left over from another project that is FAR too stiff to bend into a radius around the center divider.
I'm also experimenting with different oils/varnishes for the bubinga hardwood baffles - I think I've found a combination that I like and that works. I'll post a few pictures when they are completed...
well, if they're Totem Beaks, or those little bitty Tibetan bowls, the effects could be positively relevatory
I'm as big a fanboy of well crafted mumbo-jumbo as the next person, but these folks take it to a whole new level of weird - jus sayin
6moons audio reviews: Three Tweaks
I'm as big a fanboy of well crafted mumbo-jumbo as the next person, but these folks take it to a whole new level of weird - jus sayin
6moons audio reviews: Three Tweaks
Hard to really tell from the picture, but worth a try. If you want send me a bit i can judge it by how it feels.
dave
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Chris and Chuyler - you guys are funny 
I'm looking forward to finishing my FHXLs (using 10.3 drivers) and I'm already thinking ahead to when these are in place and wondering what type of center channel configuration is available for either the 10p or 10.3 driver.
The FHs will flank my 65" television, so I'm looking for a flat/wide configuration that will either sit on top of a TV stand (either in front of the TV or under the TV legs), or (gulp) be integrated into a ~50" wide table that I build myself...
I found two plans, one for/by Greg, the other for/by Jim.
Just wondering if other options are available.
I'm looking forward to finishing my FHXLs (using 10.3 drivers) and I'm already thinking ahead to when these are in place and wondering what type of center channel configuration is available for either the 10p or 10.3 driver.
The FHs will flank my 65" television, so I'm looking for a flat/wide configuration that will either sit on top of a TV stand (either in front of the TV or under the TV legs), or (gulp) be integrated into a ~50" wide table that I build myself...
I found two plans, one for/by Greg, the other for/by Jim.
Just wondering if other options are available.
All speakers should have curved tops. People at parties wouldn't be able to put their drinks on them.
jeff
My intention is to release one of my miniOnken centre channels for free use with the frugel-horns. I don’t know if i have yet done that for the A10x. eMail me if you can’t find them.
Im pretty sure Chris has posted pics of his A10p centre, but i can’t find them on my HD.
dave
All speakers should have curved tops. People at parties wouldn't be able to put their drinks on them.
Though that could backfire - someone is too drunk or simply not paying attention, and attempts to rest their drink on the curved top speaker. Now you have a big ol' spill!