Electric is easily capable of doing a low cost job when there's no draft; however, you've got a garage door in that area.
The fuel based options will be more cost effective for the drafty garage space. A new kerosene heater or a gas heater, would achieve.
I've been a lurker for a while now and still making my way through this thread but thought it time break the posting cherry. I'm upto page 272 so nearly there 
.
Anyway the result is that I pushed the button two weeks ago to purchase some boards from Tom. At the same time ordered the case and components. As much as for myself I'm going to document my build here...
I can cut, bash, solder etc. but don't have hardly any of the skills of the experts here. So if you see anything obviously wrong let me know.
And if you don't mind, I'm going to post the storyboards as I go?...
I'm currently investigating on ways to place legends on the panels while I wait for the boards, cause the moment they turn up the soldering iron will be raring to go.
. Anyway the result is that I pushed the button two weeks ago to purchase some boards from Tom. At the same time ordered the case and components. As much as for myself I'm going to document my build here...
I can cut, bash, solder etc. but don't have hardly any of the skills of the experts here. So if you see anything obviously wrong let me know.
And if you don't mind, I'm going to post the storyboards as I go?...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm currently investigating on ways to place legends on the panels while I wait for the boards, cause the moment they turn up the soldering iron will be raring to go.
Cheers, do you mean the reading is that dreary, the thread has managed to keep my interest not so sure about Reading though, just as dreary in your neighbouring county of Oxfordshire
For the LED, I use the same trick with a small (1 mm) hole through the front panel and a larger hole drilled from the back. It works really well.
If you haven't poked the holes in the bottom plate, I suggest putting the transformer centred by the IEC inlet and the power board between the transformer and the front panel. Keep the transformer wiring short as the wires there contain some pretty nasty charging pulses.
For mounting the MOD86 boards in that chassis, I'd fashion an aluminum bracket that mounts to the heat sink and hits the mounting holes (with standoffs) on the MOD86 board. Alternatively, a mezzanine that clears the corner bracket for the chassis would solve it too.
Those corner brackets is the only thing I don't like about the ModuShop chassis. Everything else is great, though, I also wish they'd have used countersunk screws for the top panel.
Tom
If you haven't poked the holes in the bottom plate, I suggest putting the transformer centred by the IEC inlet and the power board between the transformer and the front panel. Keep the transformer wiring short as the wires there contain some pretty nasty charging pulses.
For mounting the MOD86 boards in that chassis, I'd fashion an aluminum bracket that mounts to the heat sink and hits the mounting holes (with standoffs) on the MOD86 board. Alternatively, a mezzanine that clears the corner bracket for the chassis would solve it too.
Those corner brackets is the only thing I don't like about the ModuShop chassis. Everything else is great, though, I also wish they'd have used countersunk screws for the top panel.
Tom
Thanks for the tips Tom.
My plan is to make my own tray that is supported by on the top edge of the corner brackets (probably using the countersunk holes already provided for their own tray) as I'd like to have the option of removing the bottom cover for access.
The MOD86s will be mounted to the tray using 10mm standoffs and there should be enough room underneath for some of the cable runs.
With respect to transformer placement I'm not committed yet. The secondary cables are 155mm long when twisted together and will reach the PSU in the layout shown. I've opted for an all-in-one IEC socket, switch, fuse holder and filter module and this will go quite deep (48mm) in from the rear panel so the primary's may have to be extended. Which are most important wires to keep short, the secondaries I would have said?
For the output of the PSU I'm going to use the Molex plug and have purchased the pre-made 12AWG leads that Mouser sell, which saves having to invest in a crimping tool. My little brain is telling me that these leads should be of equal length to both the amps to keep them balanced?
The other consideration is a mechanical one ie: the weight of the transformer at the centre of the tray. I was going to put 90deg bends on the inner edges that would meet the base and make things a bit more ridgid.
If anyone wants it here is my template for cutting the rear panel.
My plan is to make my own tray that is supported by on the top edge of the corner brackets (probably using the countersunk holes already provided for their own tray) as I'd like to have the option of removing the bottom cover for access.
The MOD86s will be mounted to the tray using 10mm standoffs and there should be enough room underneath for some of the cable runs.
With respect to transformer placement I'm not committed yet. The secondary cables are 155mm long when twisted together and will reach the PSU in the layout shown. I've opted for an all-in-one IEC socket, switch, fuse holder and filter module and this will go quite deep (48mm) in from the rear panel so the primary's may have to be extended. Which are most important wires to keep short, the secondaries I would have said?
For the output of the PSU I'm going to use the Molex plug and have purchased the pre-made 12AWG leads that Mouser sell, which saves having to invest in a crimping tool. My little brain is telling me that these leads should be of equal length to both the amps to keep them balanced?
The other consideration is a mechanical one ie: the weight of the transformer at the centre of the tray. I was going to put 90deg bends on the inner edges that would meet the base and make things a bit more ridgid.
If anyone wants it here is my template for cutting the rear panel.
Will do next time around although I'm hoping my company/server is not going pop anytime soon
.PS: I'm there all posts in this thread read! Can't profess to understand half of them.
Both the secondary and the primary wires. Of the two, the secondary is probably the most critical as it carries the largest current. I still wouldn't want to run the primary wires all the way through the chassis if I could avoid it.
It really doesn't matter. As long as each wire bundle going to each amp board is kept tight with wire ties, life is good.
Tom
well this evening I have been wishing I had had a crystal ball that would have seen the 286 released before I had completed this project
Looking at all the mounting options and, unless I can tap a friend with a milling machine I need to go the copper shim route. Phooey.
3"x1.5" angle Al should do for the mounts. I did for a second mull mounting the LM3886 onto the angle bracket then that onto the heatsink but quickly realised the futility of that approach.
Looking at all the mounting options and, unless I can tap a friend with a milling machine I need to go the copper shim route. Phooey.
3"x1.5" angle Al should do for the mounts. I did for a second mull mounting the LM3886 onto the angle bracket then that onto the heatsink but quickly realised the futility of that approach.
If you're running it indoors, then you didn't lose much. That size casing (LM3886, TDA7293) is worth 45 watts per chip (barely enough for tinnitus, so you probably didn't need more). Paralleling increases linearity, which is more ear friendly. Therefore, at worst, the difference could cost you a BSC for a 2-way speaker. A BSC (resistor bypassed notch filter) does for a 2-way speaker what an inexpensive midrange resistor padding does for a 3-way speaker. Either way can be tuned to decrease current at ear sensitivity peak, providing just about exactly the same sound that a parallel amp does. Although there probably wasn't going to be a noticeable difference, I illustrated the worst case, and there wasn't much of it.well this evening I have been wishing I had had a crystal ball that would have seen the 286 released before I had completed this project
Also, the BSC fix is adjustable and sounds fantastic. It is considered an extraneous luxury for speakers and rarely seen.
I was just suggesting that if you didn't need the 90W parallel amp, then go ahead and make your 45W amp sound even better.
WHAT??? I'm not sure what I just read, but it didn't have much to do with sound engineering practice.