My final build is finally final, at least for the time being. This has been a very long journey for me, I started thinking about building an amp 20 years ago. My first implementation was a p2p gainclone, but I did not like the sound, and I quit for a while. When I started again last summer, I diverged to SMD soldering just to find out if it's worth considering. Then I decided to go with the modulus-86. I thought the 286 was not diy enough for me.
The easy part was populating the amplifier board, although I did manage to screw up even the easy part (see post #6407).
A more difficult but very enjoyable part was designing the power supply. I love using KiCad, but I never really had a purpose, so I did not practice too much. I also got some help here, when I was not sure. I designed and made one version, it burned due to either a cold solder joint or a loose screw terminal. So I designed another version, and thoroughly enjoyed the process again.
The really hard part was fitting the whole thing is the case that I designed way back when. Not very practical, but at least unique.
Here are a few things that I learned in the process.
1. Screw terminals are for single core wires, period. Using them with multi stranded wires is unstable. There was a lot of twisting and turning involved in putting my build together, but I was also very careful and retightened the screws multiple times to no avail. At least use ferrules.
2. Using ferrules does not come without it's own complications. The simple budget brand blanking-and-crimping pliers are not going to cut it. Picking the right size ferrule is crucial. All in all: even something so simple and common as screw terminals need good tools and some practice.
3. If you don't want to spend your money on tools, use the connectors that RC people use in their builds, like the Amass XT series or something similar. They are cheap, reliable, easy to work with and they have a very small footprint. And you only need your soldering iron to make them work.
4. You are going to make mistakes. If you are not a pro, there are always going to be things that you are doing for the first time. You are going to make mistakes, and your mistakes are going to cost money and time. A lot of money, and a lot of time. And it's ok.
5. It's going to be ugly at times. Especially when you make mistakes, or have friends who help but think very differently (see the pictures). Have a friend! Have someone to encourage you and laugh with you when you screw up.
6. Do it! There is no point in waiting. Do with whatever you have at hand, try and fail. Fantasize, do research, prototype. Design! There are so many tools that you can use even for free.
So it's done, I would love to make more PCB design and soldering, but it's hard to find the justification for it now, so I am probably finished for some time. It works, it sounds really good, though it did not change the way I listen to music, it did not make me go through my cd collection again, I probably grew too old to really care. Thanks for all the support and help, torzsok out
The easy part was populating the amplifier board, although I did manage to screw up even the easy part (see post #6407).
A more difficult but very enjoyable part was designing the power supply. I love using KiCad, but I never really had a purpose, so I did not practice too much. I also got some help here, when I was not sure. I designed and made one version, it burned due to either a cold solder joint or a loose screw terminal. So I designed another version, and thoroughly enjoyed the process again.
The really hard part was fitting the whole thing is the case that I designed way back when. Not very practical, but at least unique.
Here are a few things that I learned in the process.
1. Screw terminals are for single core wires, period. Using them with multi stranded wires is unstable. There was a lot of twisting and turning involved in putting my build together, but I was also very careful and retightened the screws multiple times to no avail. At least use ferrules.
2. Using ferrules does not come without it's own complications. The simple budget brand blanking-and-crimping pliers are not going to cut it. Picking the right size ferrule is crucial. All in all: even something so simple and common as screw terminals need good tools and some practice.
3. If you don't want to spend your money on tools, use the connectors that RC people use in their builds, like the Amass XT series or something similar. They are cheap, reliable, easy to work with and they have a very small footprint. And you only need your soldering iron to make them work.
4. You are going to make mistakes. If you are not a pro, there are always going to be things that you are doing for the first time. You are going to make mistakes, and your mistakes are going to cost money and time. A lot of money, and a lot of time. And it's ok.
5. It's going to be ugly at times. Especially when you make mistakes, or have friends who help but think very differently (see the pictures). Have a friend! Have someone to encourage you and laugh with you when you screw up.
6. Do it! There is no point in waiting. Do with whatever you have at hand, try and fail. Fantasize, do research, prototype. Design! There are so many tools that you can use even for free.
So it's done, I would love to make more PCB design and soldering, but it's hard to find the justification for it now, so I am probably finished for some time. It works, it sounds really good, though it did not change the way I listen to music, it did not make me go through my cd collection again, I probably grew too old to really care. Thanks for all the support and help, torzsok out
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I love the wood + steel. Nicely done.
The terminals on the Modulus-86 can be used both with solid and stranded wire. So says Phoenix who makes them. I've never had issues with either, so I wonder what went on in your case.
Tom
The terminals on the Modulus-86 can be used both with solid and stranded wire. So says Phoenix who makes them. I've never had issues with either, so I wonder what went on in your case.
Tom
I chose the Neurochrome Modulus-86 (10th Anniversary Edition) to replace a 30 year old Carver PM-300 which had begun to “leak noise” which I could hear on my speakers between songs. The noise was barely audible but I could hear it if I put my ear close enough to a speaker. I thought about recapping the Carver but stumbled across the Neurochrome website and saw the low noise Modulus-86 and decided to give it a try. It has not disappointed. It is perfectly quiet - or rather absolutely quiet between songs.
Ya know... You really ought to ground that bamboo... 😉
On a serious note: That's a really neat build. I like chassis options like that. If one is concerned about EMI or small fingers poking where they shouldn't, one could make a cover from perf plate. Similar to what Heathkit did: https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/heath_hp_23a_hp23a.html
Tom
On a serious note: That's a really neat build. I like chassis options like that. If one is concerned about EMI or small fingers poking where they shouldn't, one could make a cover from perf plate. Similar to what Heathkit did: https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/heath_hp_23a_hp23a.html
Tom
I could spray it with cold galv but it's only available in gray. I prefer the natural look. 🤓
I've been thinking of various ways to make a cover. I'm not worried about EMI since none is detected thus far. I do have grandkids with little fingers though.
The Dynaco ST-70 I built as a kit some decades ago had a perforated metal cover. The steel and aluminum perf plate I can find here in town is either too small or the sheet is too large or too thick or too expensive. I am also considering wire mesh. It should be cheaper and easier to form. Something like this minus bamboo cover and upside down.
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I like natural wood too.
Online Metals might come in handy if you go the perf plate route. It's usually pretty soft aluminum, i.e., not 6061. You could easily bend it with a box break. I believe you can get solder that'll work on aluminum so you could solder the corners together. https://www.onlinemetals.com/
Tom
Online Metals might come in handy if you go the perf plate route. It's usually pretty soft aluminum, i.e., not 6061. You could easily bend it with a box break. I believe you can get solder that'll work on aluminum so you could solder the corners together. https://www.onlinemetals.com/
Tom