I made an active wall mounted MLTL with TC9FD's for my sister.
It should be quiet similar to what you plan.
I put a filterless TPA3110 board from sure-electronics inside that cabinet.
Everytime i visit my sister, i stream some music to that speaker.
I really love its sound.
The amp does its job very good!
It is not the amp i used, but look at that price:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TPA...lt&btsid=d2727271-1095-4a79-8328-abf23b677486
You can put one of them into each TABAQ right next to the driver.
You should also consider a TDA8932 mono board:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Low...lt&btsid=658934c9-a71c-4874-8463-67e04f0019ab
Oh my dog!!
The price is unreal!!!
Unbelievable!
I cannot send a postcard to china for the price of the amp including te shipment.
You can order two of each, feed each cab with a different amp and then decide what you like more (...and post your decision here).
EDIT:
Of course the small TPA3118 pbtl is still recommended, but i'm not sure which vendor still sells the better versions.
It seems like there are cheap knockoffs of the already very low priced amp.
To make my posting completely weird i'm gonna show you the cheapest amp i ever saw.
I do not recommend it, because i have no idea, how it sounds.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PC...id=8b1feae6-3848-4e36-958b-8f3969ad1e0e&tpp=1
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When you say "add" do you mean I should replace the original caps to 470uF ones or should I really add another cap somewhere? Im sorry, english is not my native language and I dont know much about these amps so I just want to be sure I get it right🙂
It doesn't change much/nothing if your supply is minimum halfway capable of putting out some current.
3.5A 20V continuous is more powerfull than what many others use, you can always improve if you like later
Hi guys, I need to calculate a power supply for a tpa3116
I will feed the circuit with 24V, and the speaker is going to be a 4ohm 6x9 speaker. According to the datasheet figures, I can drain around 70-85 watts with 24V and 4ohm load. Is it correct to say that if the amp will consume around 80 watts, then I should go fine with a 100W power supply? How many amps would be suitable for my app? I am thinking about 4A, 0.2A for the player and some leds. Will that be more than enough? The 6x9 speaker seems to be quite powerful, big magnet and 1.5" voice coil, so I am expecting it to throw some good bass once mounted in the proper enclosure. I am starting to like the 6x9 speakers for boom boxes, you have everything in one of them, good bass 45hz, good mids, and they come with nice tweeters, which I think is more than enough for a discrete medium size boom box.
I will feed the circuit with 24V, and the speaker is going to be a 4ohm 6x9 speaker. According to the datasheet figures, I can drain around 70-85 watts with 24V and 4ohm load. Is it correct to say that if the amp will consume around 80 watts, then I should go fine with a 100W power supply? How many amps would be suitable for my app? I am thinking about 4A, 0.2A for the player and some leds. Will that be more than enough? The 6x9 speaker seems to be quite powerful, big magnet and 1.5" voice coil, so I am expecting it to throw some good bass once mounted in the proper enclosure. I am starting to like the 6x9 speakers for boom boxes, you have everything in one of them, good bass 45hz, good mids, and they come with nice tweeters, which I think is more than enough for a discrete medium size boom box.
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I'm using a 24 volt, 4A power supply, with 2 x 6ohm boxes off a JVC mini system, no problems. I'm sure it will be more than adequate for your requirements.
I'm very interested in your plan to use 6x9's - good brands are pretty inexpensive and if they can indeed get down to 45hz that would solve my need for a better bass response than what I have currently. Please share your box design when you have it done.
I'm very interested in your plan to use 6x9's - good brands are pretty inexpensive and if they can indeed get down to 45hz that would solve my need for a better bass response than what I have currently. Please share your box design when you have it done.
If you would really test power and ampboard is TI EVM and load/speaker is a resistor, you can read in TI EVM Usersguide they specify a 8A powersupply.
TI now also makes a tpa3128 version, some small differences with 3118, I think for groupbuy boards with filter on seperate avcc this is the chip that really is made for that "mod", so gmarsh Wiener will perform better with new version, as will Dug's.
I simply will mount the 6x9 on a big enough enclosure (1 cubic foot) and then will try different 2.5" diameter pvc tube lengths and evaluate what length is the best for it, I need to do this because these speakers never come with TS parameters.
Take a look at this speaker ($35 pair):
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Boss-Aud...r-Speakers-Speakers-Pair-of-Speakers/17324280
I first wanted to buy a pair from pyle ($30), but then realized pyles voice coil were smaller than that boss speaker, that boss is 1.5" voice coil, so it will perform better and handle more power. They come in pairs, and I first will use only one for a compact mono box (1 cubic foot), I have this little worm in my head telling me to give it a try.
Attachments
I posted a few days ago (post #9808) concerning a new 2.1 amplifier I got - a 3116D2. What I'm most interested in hearing is whether this amp will be capable of running a bucket sub as discussed here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/278567-bucket-subs-i-think-my-wife-can-live.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/278567-bucket-subs-i-think-my-wife-can-live.html
Interesting development with TPA3128 - perhaps even better performance will come from including a regulator on AVCC, seeing as now the analog supply is allowed to be considerably lower than the PVCC.
Of course it will be able to run it, we are talking about 100w in that output, which is more than enough for a domestic audio system. However, I don't think it would be a good idea using those plastic buckets, unless you add some external bracing, it will flex and absorb and dissipate the impact created by the sub.
Ed, their inventor says 300 watts and his will rattle the windows next door.
I use a 300 watt plate amp but I think you could get by with less.
Actually it's a great idea and you should try them. The concrete filled bucket subs are extremely rigid and the long crews in the base act like rebar. There's no flex or need for bracing if you build them according to Ed's instructions.
Thanks Poultrygeist, I'll do some work on this next week. I'm very interested in how well the amplifier will handle the crossover/low pass point.
Why will it perform better than the 3118? The major difference i spotted is the reduction in RDSon from 120mR to low 90mR.
I can't find this statement in the datasheet compared to the TPA3118. Can you point me in the right direction? Are you refering to "9.1 Power Supply Mode"? This is also valid for the 3118, as the internal LDO structure isn't changed.
The Peerless SLS 830667 driver used in those subs is 8-ohm. The most power you will be able push with a 3116D2 amp is about 30W for that impedance. Even if you get a 4-ohm driver, the max power is about 50W. If you really want to drive 100W out of 3116D2 amp in PBTL mode, you need a 2-ohm subwoofer speaker.
If you want to use the 8-ohm Peerless SLS 830667 driver, you may want to consider a TDA7498 based amplifier board instead. And if you want to use a 4-ohm driver, a TDA7498E based board may be better. In either case, you would need a 36V power supply.
As AVCC is only connected to an LDO, i wouldn't say so. Even for the 3128 one must keep in mind that, with a minimum voltage of 4.5-6V on AVCC, GVDD is also limited. (GVDD is normally at ~7V)
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