Ok. amp gain all the way down. Headlight in line. Punch bass control disconnected. Filter set to low pass. Using a 50hz test tone.
Left channel 0.2VAC Right channel. When first touching the leads it shows about 4.4VAC for approximately 0.5 seconds. It then drops to 0 Volts. Definitely some kind of imbalance.
Left channel 0.2VAC Right channel. When first touching the leads it shows about 4.4VAC for approximately 0.5 seconds. It then drops to 0 Volts. Definitely some kind of imbalance.
Set the crossover to full range.
The amp should produce about 15v AC. Try it with the gain at full.
The amp should produce about 15v AC. Try it with the gain at full.
With these changes.
Left channel 1.4 VAC
Right channel First touch anywhere from 4 to 10 volts for maybe a half a second where it then drops to 0 VAC
I think the right channel may have DC and your meter is giving false readings.
What is the input signal voltage going into the amp?
What are you using for a signal source?
What is the input signal voltage going into the amp?
What are you using for a signal source?
Do I disconnect the RCAs and measure the male pins directly? I've never done that before. The source is the factory radio through a line level converter. I don't remember what model that is and it's a bear to get to. It's tucked in behind the radio. Seems to be fine with the 4 channel amp
One probe on the RCA shield, the other on the center conductor. The volume on the head unit needs to be set relatively high.
Not a lost cause but you're not giving me much to work with and I'm having trouble trying to come up with tests that can tell me what I need to know to troubleshoot. With no way to listen for audio, it's difficult to know what the output is, especially when the meter reads so low at the output. The AC voltage dropping to nothing is especially strange. I've been swamped with work and haven't had time to do much of anything else.
Oh ok. I understand. I might be able to find a speaker to try. Perhaps a bigger one would hold up. I was just a little leery of frying more speakers. You mentioned the right channel may have DC. I've used a D or C sized battery before to determine phase of a speaker when it was unknown. Should I set the meter to DC and check that?
Any chance the voltage regulator could cause these issues?
The voltage regulators take the rail voltage and reduce it to a safe voltage for the op-amps in the preamp section.
To check for DC on the channel that changes, set the meter to DC voltage instead of AC voltage.
To check for DC on the channel that changes, set the meter to DC voltage instead of AC voltage.
Left channel, 50 hz test tone. 9.1VDC
Right channel 27.8VDC at speaker outputs.
Also, I found the line converter box while searching for a speaker. It's a Peripheral VEN4. It was made by peripheral electronics.
I found my factory Silverado speakers. 4x6 I think. I don't know if they will be suitable or not.
If I'm understanding you correctly, the DC volts on the speaker outputs with the 5o hz test tone is a problem. It's probably not a coincidence the right channel is much higher and that's the channel that fried the small speaker.
Right. The DC is a problem. Is this the same channel that originally had a defective IRF540? Or was that the other channel?
The DC is what killed the speaker. When you connected it. the speaker likely pulled in or pushed out and remained there until its voice coil opened. If you ever see that happen, immediately disconnect the speaker.
Connect the 4x6 to the left channel (volume at zero) and slowly increase the volume. Does the speaker produce audio?
The DC is what killed the speaker. When you connected it. the speaker likely pulled in or pushed out and remained there until its voice coil opened. If you ever see that happen, immediately disconnect the speaker.
Connect the 4x6 to the left channel (volume at zero) and slowly increase the volume. Does the speaker produce audio?
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