This driver has a very large Vas (soft suspension) that it requires a very large cabinet to get bass. Even though it is a 12in driver, it needs a Karlsonator scaled to 1.33x tall and deep and 1.0x wide in order to perform optimally. If you do that though, you get 94dB sensitivity for the bass down to 50Hz and F3 of 44Hz.
Here is predicted SPL at 2.83v and 1m:
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hey xrk971 - how about a filled MLTL or reflex around 120 liter internal volume tuned low?
here's 2pi for 86 liter total in hornresp - I don't think the published parameters added up right - maybe some height would balance better than this example. Also it might be good to simulate with a dedicated TL program or Akabak
there's fill in the whole box
here's 2pi for 86 liter total in hornresp - I don't think the published parameters added up right - maybe some height would balance better than this example. Also it might be good to simulate with a dedicated TL program or Akabak
there's fill in the whole box
Hmm, let's call that a Mega Karlsonator, not a mini Karlsonator. 😉
I guess we are all assuming that this is for the Gui Sound / HiEnd 12" full range?
While it would be large, I've certainly built larger. By Ultra Fi standards it's not that bad. On the plus side, bigger speakers often have a subjective bigness to the sound quality that is easy to hear but hard to measure. I suspect this would be a speaker that is fun to listen to.
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+1
I bet this one is worth building. Any speaker that can generate close to 95dB (after baffle step losses) at 2.83v for 50Hz will sound quite astonishingly impressive.
Thank you all.
18mm plywood or may be thicker?
Something to treat the interior?
Anything else?
I'll post some pictures If everything will be OK.
18mm plywood or may be thicker?
Something to treat the interior?
Anything else?
I'll post some pictures If everything will be OK.
18mm should be fine. Line areas behind driver, adjacent to driver back, and bottom floor panel with 12mm thickness felt. Line backside of K aperture near front driver cone with felt. Moderate stuffing in sealed section of TL down to just past the driver.
Bracing of K aperture panel with thick dowel screwed to panel and back board.
Bracing of K aperture panel with thick dowel screwed to panel and back board.
1.33T x 1.33xD x 1.0 wide would look very nice
I got good bass from the Karlsonator 12 and Nirvana super 10 - much better than reflex with similar tuning - here's a stock size Karlonator12 with Beta10cx/ASD1001 and Eminence's recommended value crossover.
I got good bass from the Karlsonator 12 and Nirvana super 10 - much better than reflex with similar tuning - here's a stock size Karlonator12 with Beta10cx/ASD1001 and Eminence's recommended value crossover.
18mm is what I would use. Consider a reinforcing cleat or two on the back, either crosswise or vertical. If you do that and dowel it too, it will be really strong.
AFA the lining, here's a picture with my preferred placement, which is basically exactly the same as what xrk971 described, though I have the polyfill stop right before the driver. Experiment! it's fun. 🙂
will polyester craft felt work? - or does it need to be wool? - there's 35% wool/65% Rayon sheets
at Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Shee...hash=item43c701c173:m:mixYbdFggxhBRhN4DTFVOvw
at Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Shee...hash=item43c701c173:m:mixYbdFggxhBRhN4DTFVOvw
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I just use regular polyester craft felt. Wool might be better but the moths would eat it.
I have heard real wool makes a difference. There is microstructure in the natural wool that absorbs better. Maybe microfiber cloth would work?
microfiber cloths that look something like old terry-cloth could soak up a lot of energy compared to polyester craft felt and might work well on the real panel of K15 type (?) - what's a good adhesive for craft felt which won't grip too hard to the inside of the wings? (double sided tape?)
Hot melt glue is my favorite way to bond foam/felt/fabric to wood or foam core. It peels off wood with good pull without damaging wood. A hot air gun or hair dryer can help soften to remove also.
I wonder if for some reflex and perhaps some K15 type whether the following would work well in the chamber/rear chamber? The late Leander Adams on Job Ulfman's old Karlson speaker forum used egg cartons, with holes punched and a tuff of fiberglass in each cup. These quail egg cartons look interesting if they don't consume too much volume
about five years ago, there was a dedicated egg tray type product made for loudspeaker cabinets under the name "Basslinear"
http://www.amazon.com/Papier-Mache-Quail-Tray-Pack/dp/B005UDJXRS
about five years ago, there was a dedicated egg tray type product made for loudspeaker cabinets under the name "Basslinear"
http://www.amazon.com/Papier-Mache-Quail-Tray-Pack/dp/B005UDJXRS
Thanks for the tip Freddi. I will try in my next build. So start saving up on paper egg carton now 🙂
18mm is what I would use. Consider a reinforcing cleat or two on the back, either crosswise or vertical. If you do that and dowel it too, it will be really strong.
AFA the lining, here's a picture with my preferred placement, which is basically exactly the same as what xrk971 described, though I have the polyfill stop right before the driver. Experiment! it's fun. 🙂
Thank you for the picture. It may help some others too. 🙂
fr135ex is singing
I finally decided to order fr135ex and started two new enclosures (the two for dual TC9 are close to finished …) with the good scale.
They arrived today (and they look really well made) so I mount one 😀.
Actual box are without any damping nor brace nor filter. I just put one instead of a fountek fe85 based iBIB and watch a movie (an iBIB on the left and a karsonator on the right).
They are a lot of new micro detail 🙄 and I can't hear any differences from -30° to +30° off axis : that's really impressive 😎.
According to their datasheet, fe85 is 85,7 db and fr135ex 85,1 db but the karsonator played a few louder.
I may finish them in one or two weeks and will post some pics. I need to think a little bit more about fixing the K aperture, the acoustical tissue and painting the box.
Stay tunned
I finally decided to order fr135ex and started two new enclosures (the two for dual TC9 are close to finished …) with the good scale.
They arrived today (and they look really well made) so I mount one 😀.
Actual box are without any damping nor brace nor filter. I just put one instead of a fountek fe85 based iBIB and watch a movie (an iBIB on the left and a karsonator on the right).
They are a lot of new micro detail 🙄 and I can't hear any differences from -30° to +30° off axis : that's really impressive 😎.
According to their datasheet, fe85 is 85,7 db and fr135ex 85,1 db but the karsonator played a few louder.
I may finish them in one or two weeks and will post some pics. I need to think a little bit more about fixing the K aperture, the acoustical tissue and painting the box.
Stay tunned
I am concerned the HF will suffer using the Pioneer PAX A16 drivers I have, if I build the K aperature. Can anyone speak to the use of a coaxial speaker with a horn lens such as the A16's in a Karlsonator type cabinet?
Pioneer PAX-A16
A friend and I were considering building them and he had some concerns, and to be honest, they made me wonder as well. Thanks in advance.
Pioneer PAX-A16
A friend and I were considering building them and he had some concerns, and to be honest, they made me wonder as well. Thanks in advance.
My one experience with coaxial behind a K aperture is very good. Sometimes a aka aperture can take an otherwise bad frequency response and smooth it out and flatten it (CHN-70 is one example). My XKi with a custom made PA130-8 and Mylar dome tweeter sounds excellent. Freddi can comment on a horn coax in a K. I would think it sounds good as well.